Is this normal for a new ball?

You will find out that people who work at pet stores a lot of times are misinformed. Im not saying they are dumb or anything just that they dont know all of the facts.

I learned to take advise from people who own more ball pythons than the store sells for advice... I personally own 10 ball pythons, and that is nothing.. There are people on this site that own 100's or 1000's of ball pythons and I learned all my facts from them...

I'm sorry if I sounded like I was arguing with you. I was just pointing out the confict in information. =p I don't see how any of you can have so many snakes. That is A LOT of tanks. O_o I mean wow. I don't even want to think of the expense. lol

And Lenastorms, thanks for the welcome! [=

Your snake is fine to be handled as much (with discretion) or as little as you would like. It is captive - handling it more than twice a week is not going to ruin its natural intuition. Always give 24 hours MINIMUM after feeding, and when in shed some bps are a little shy. This is because it is difficult for them so see through the old shed. For now - concentrate on getting your set-up running smoothly, then you can work on handling the snake. This is my summary care info - which can be found in our care sheet in MUCH greater detail.

You are doing very well by asking questions, we are here to help!!

Care sheets - http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/f...splay.php?f=62


1) To measure your humidity and temperature accurately - Use DIGITAL gauges (stick on gauges are NOT reliable, and a waste of money unfortunately) The most cost friendly device you can purchase is an accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer from wal-mart for $12. The gauge does not have to be this brand, but something with an outdoor/indoor measurement will work because this means the device uses a probe.

2) You need a belly temperature (right on the glass under the hide on one side of the tank) measured by a probe (which comes with something like an accurite) of 90 - 93 degrees. This is where your bp will spend his time digesting and hanging out A LOT. A UTH (under tank heater) costs about $20 at a pet store but MUST have a control.

The safest and most reliable type of control is a thermostat ($70 - $300) but the minimum requirement for a control is something like a lamp dimmer (a rheostat, which is something that must be manually adjusted). Lowes sells piggyback lamp dimmers for about $10.

3) You need a hide on the cooler side of the tank with a belly temperature or ambient temperature in the low 80's. This can be achieved through a heat lamp with the correct wattage bulb, or simply a nice warm room. Keep in mind that the two hides you choose should be the same so your bp feels EQUALLY secure in BOTH hides. Your bp will choose where it feels safest, whether or not it is the correct temperature.

4) HUMIDITY = very important - just as important as temperature. 55-60% humidity is required for proper shedding. For tips on how to achieve this please see the care sheets.

5) A sturdy water dish with fresh water can be put anywhere in the tank, if placed over a UTH (under tank heater) it can help raise the humidity.

6) Substrate can be anything from newspaper or cage liners to aspen. Cedar is TOXIC. Do not use cedar. CYPRESS mulch is good - don't mix it up with cedar.

7) Security - ball pythons are shy. They hide more than 80% of the time so if your snake is hiding a lot, thats a good thing. Cover three sides of your tank with paper/aquarium background - what ever you would like to help your snake feel less exposed. Snug, identical hides are a MUST, one on the cool side one on the hot side.

Awesome, thank you. I actually read this the first night with the ball. =D

Missi- good informative post:gj:

The only thing i disagree with is the handling of the snake, this is a debatable fact though... I know how ball pythons can be picky eaters and go off feed. One of the things in the sticky called "why wont my snake eat" is over handling.

My opinion is if you want a pet that you can play with and handle all the time then a dog or cat is perfect for this...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Awesome, thank you. I actually read this the first night with the ball. =D

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Awesome, keep up the good work and get a control for that UTH ASAP. I would suggest you get a lamp dimmer tomorrow until you get a thermostat. Its always good to have should you need a back-up or use a lamp. Unplug the UTH until you get a control, your snake could easily be burned without a control.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mochelem

Missi- good informative post:gj:

The only thing i disagree with is the handling of the snake, this is a debatable fact though... I know how ball pythons can be picky eaters and go off feed. One of the things in the sticky called "why wont my snake eat" is over handling.

My opinion is if you want a pet that you can play with and handle all the time then a dog or cat is perfect for this...

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Picky eating would be another issue IMO. If you recognize a problem, you then evaluate what is causing the problem I.E a snake that is not comfortable being handled constantly (discretion...).

But I can see where you could make the point why wait until a problem comes up to solve it. I do know many people that handle their bps nightly with no feeding issues or behavioral issues. But yes- debatable indeed. I handle twice a week personally, simply because thats all I have time for.

Okay, I just felt the area where the UTH is at, and there is no way in hell that it is hot enough to burn the snake. But I will definitely get the digital read thermometers and possibly a light dimmer tomorrow, because the cool side is a little hot, according to my crappy [oops!] stick on gauge. =p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Okay, I just felt the area where the UTH is at, and there is no way in hell that it is hot enough to burn the snake. But I will definitely get the digital read thermometers and possibly a light dimmer tomorrow, because the cool side is a little hot, according to my :cens0r::cens0r::cens0r::cens0r:ty stick on gauge. =p

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Keep in mind, you are 97 degrees. What feels Hot to you, must be warmer than 97 degrees. That means what feels warmer than your hand could be over 100 - which is too hot.

On top of that - UTHs are unstable because electricity fluctuations in your home increase and decrease the temp of the UTH. I have tested this theory and at times my uncontrolled UTH would sit around 100, at other times it would reach as high as 115. Not worth the risk.

Point taken. [=