Favorite Snakes - That Are Different

First good additional suggetions. I like Texas rats (lucy, normal, albino, high orange) even though they can be pretty mean. Stimsons I consider part of the crowd with spot's, childrens, ants, etc. and they are deffinitely in.

Now on Hogs, they are totally harmless to humans. I don't think anyone here ever went to the hospital for one (could be but I don't remember that) one guy posted pics online of his bite. A bite that was a SFE and lasted a very long time because the guy LET IT CHEW on him for many minutes and took pictures.

His hand swelled up a lot and had a bit of pain, the went down. My wife got a wasp sting a week back and it looked about the same reaction remember "Captain Darwin" :rolleyes: let this snake chew for a long time.

Here is the dingbats pictorial http://www.herpnet.net/bite/

OK I am being to hard on the guy it is pretty cool that he filmed the whole thing because it documented a worse case senario and showed they pose no real threat specificly from a normal bite vs one that chews on you for FIVE MINUTES.

I would certainly consider a Hogg a beginner snake, they almost never offer to bite, wild ones bluff and I have picked them up right in the middle of their show and they play dead. If you get one feeding on rodents there are few snakes easier to care for, they look cool, they are docile, there are many morphs and they stay pretty small.

Anyone else think Hoggs are not a beginner snake? I mean we might call them intermediate because of the potential for a swelling bite? I would call a Madagascar Cat Eyed Snake beginner myself and they have the same if nto slightly higher potential.

Now a Mangrove I would call advanced. They are a LOT more likely to bite and the bite is generally not a medical emergency but from what I have been told more likely to cause a reaction even with a quick bite. Fortunately my psyco I kept for over a year never tagged me, despite his desire to do so.

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

OK so far this is the list we came up with,

House Snakes
Carpet Pythons
Black Milks
Black Kings
Asian Rats
Trans Pecos Rats
Rainbow Boas
Gophersnakes (I think I will do all bulls, gophers and pines with pictures of the sub phases)
Various Asaian/African Colubrids (can we get more specific)
Tiger Rats
Scrub Pythons
Woma Pythons
Black Head Pythons
Tenetacled snakes (gonna need to get some info on these)
Marine File Snake (again need info)
Chiapan boa (again need info)
Panamanian dwarf boa (again need info)
Savu Python
Matlocks Python
Diadem Snakes
Mole Snakes
African Tiger Snakes
Cat Eyed Snakes (help assembling a list would be nice, there are many)
Various Garters (Blacknecks are my favorite)

Good start but far from complete, anyone got any more examples of underated snakes. Specificly some more from North America?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frankykeno

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

---

Interesting but again I think we have seen that in the only two real reactions to hoggies I have now seen they both allowed the animal to chew for an extended period.

I also agree with the follow up poster that this was more an alergic reaction then a typical reaction. It also sounded to me like there was an infection more then venom at work.

I guess I may consider hoggs, cateyed, etc more an intermediate animal as I think about this, the care is easy enough but the risk is there at least for some small precentage of the population. Feeding with tongs is good practice and apparently both these instances could have been prevented by doing so.

Further anyone with fear of a bite could wear simple garden gloves. Rear fanged colubrids do not have good delivery systems and cloth gloves will not prevent a bite breaking the skin but it will absorb all if not the majority of the venom.

Again with hogs though I think it is more about a reaction to the bite itself then a true venom as such. I got a bite one time from a large mexican black king. He chewed on my hand good, I was holding him but not looking at him and really did not notice being chewed on. This was a big snake and the bite covered 70% of my palm and 70% of the back of my hand.

The bite did not react like the posters but did swell pretty good. Kings are totaly with out any type of venom, he just chewed enough to get some bacteria or something into the wound. Took about 1 hour to swell and itch and then perhaps lasted to some degree for 2 days.

I know plenty of people that got bit by hogs (I am not sure how, I have pressed my finger on the jaw of wild ones with no bite, I can only assume they are all from SFEs) and these are the only two with a real reaction.

So this begs the question, how would you classify true "venomous" snakes that are not dangerous to humans as a rule. Such as Night Snakes, Lyre Snakes and Sand Snakes?

I am thinking these would all to to intermediate with an understanding it is only because of some additional risk and the need for a bit more care in handling.

I would call False Water Cobras, Mangroves, etc advanced more due to how big they get or how hard they are to deal with. Also those two do pose more of a venom risk then those mentioned above. Sure no one died from either but no one has died from a copperhead and I can tell you from experience that a copper head bite is VERY SERIOUS. Death my not result but the necrosis is bad and a bit to a finger or toe can often result in loosing it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jjspirko

Interesting but again I think we have seen that in the only two real reactions to hoggies I have now seen they both allowed the animal to chew for an extended period.

I also agree with the follow up poster that this was more an alergic reaction then a typical reaction. It also sounded to me like there was an infection more then venom at work.

I guess I may consider hoggs, cateyed, etc more an intermediate animal as I think about this, the care is easy enough but the risk is there at least for some small precentage of the population. Feeding with tongs is good practice and apparently both these instances could have been prevented by doing so.

Further anyone with fear of a bite could wear simple garden gloves. Rear fanged colubrids do not have good delivery systems and cloth gloves will not prevent a bite breaking the skin but it will absorb all if not the majority of the venom.

Again with hogs though I think it is more about a reaction to the bite itself then a true venom as such. I got a bite one time from a large mexican black king. He chewed on my hand good, I was holding him but not looking at him and really did not notice being chewed on. This was a big snake and the bite covered 70% of my palm and 70% of the back of my hand.

The bite did not react like the posters but did swell pretty good. Kings are totaly with out any type of venom, he just chewed enough to get some bacteria or something into the wound. Took about 1 hour to swell and itch and then perhaps lasted to some degree for 2 days.

I know plenty of people that got bit by hogs (I am not sure how, I have pressed my finger on the jaw of wild ones with no bite, I can only assume they are all from SFEs) and these are the only two with a real reaction.

So this begs the question, how would you classify true "venomous" snakes that are not dangerous to humans as a rule. Such as Night Snakes, Lyre Snakes and Sand Snakes?

I am thinking these would all to to intermediate with an understanding it is only because of some additional risk and the need for a bit more care in handling.

I would call False Water Cobras, Mangroves, etc advanced more due to how big they get or how hard they are to deal with. Also those two do pose more of a venom risk then those mentioned above. Sure no one died from either but no one has died from a copperhead and I can tell you from experience that a copper head bite is VERY SERIOUS. Death my not result but the necrosis is bad and a bit to a finger or toe can often result in loosing it.

---

Are Hognose Snakes Venomous?

isn't duvernoy's gland not used anymore because it was found to be the exact same gland as that in cobras and rattlesnakes? The severity of the bite is based on the individuals reaction so it's kind of how you'll do when something bites you. But hoggies are no boomslangs, and rat snakes are about as bad to get bitten by as a hognose, so don't let it chew on you, but there shouldn't be any huge complications from bites.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frankykeno

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

---

Thanks loads, Jo!!! That's exactly the one I was thinking of & made me comment / question the hognose being a beginner snake. Thanks!

BOELENS PYTHON!!!

My Dream snake :)



Mike

Boelens are very cool snakes! One of the most strikingly beautiful there is in the world, all be it with simplicity. Not much of a beginner snake, from pricing alone and some extra husbandry requirements but great addition.

Some others I have come up with

Rufus Beaked Snakes (very cool with bifocal vision to boot) - I would call them a beginners snake, easy to care for, eat anything, they are back fanged but no threat to humans and I have never seen one even bluff a strike let alone bite.

Coachwhip - I would call them advanced based on their high metobalism, somewhat prone to bite and large enclosure requirements. Yet they are quite unique and do adapt well to captivity.

Red Tail Green Rat - These could be beginner or advanced depending on the source. Captive bred are easy to deal with, wild caught are far more difficult. In time I think these will be as common as beauties are today.

Cribos - Specificly other then Indigo (expensive and require a permit). Again advanced because of activity level, enclosure requirements and the fact that a bite can be pretty bad. I would deffinitely recommend capitive bred to all but those looking for breeding stock.

Bairds Rat Snake - Very cool, easy to keep as a corn, highly underated and very affordable.

Mexican Night Snakes - Real cool snakes, again care is like a corn snake. There is a lot of potential to breed new phases. Anery and Amel are now available. Rear fanged but harmless to people.

Rough or Smooth Green Snakes - Simple to care for other then they must be fed often. Beautiful but simple animals that do great in a plant terium. Totally harmless and are good display animals. Not many captive bred specimins available so that could be a cool hobbyist project.

Longnose Snakes - Very cool docile snakes that do not get very large. A challenge to get off of lizards but once on rodents they make great captives. Another possibility to start producing captive bred offspring though doing so has been a challenge.

Radiated Ratsnake - Captive bred are becomming more available including morphs. They are beautiful adaptable snakes. While many have a temper they are not that hard to deal with and CB animals are not very agressive if handled.

Trinket Rats - Kind of a smaller gentler Radiated Rat, easy to care for, easy to breed and different from what everyone else has.

This is just the species section, it is going to take a LONG time to write this book!

angolan pythons kind of expensive but cool

http://www.kingsnake.com/donpatterson/angolan.html