lighting

I have a 75watt infared lightbulb in there right now. Do you think that will be OK? Also, what is the interval I should turn it on and turn it off?

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Originally Posted by Gizm0BP

I have a 75watt infared lightbulb in there right now. Do you think that will be OK? Also, what is the interval I should turn it on and turn it off?

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Just so I know when do I turn off his light?

You need to do whatever you can to maintain steady and consistant temperatures 24/7. Go to Home Depot and get a Lutron Credenza lamp dimmer(some are $8 and some are $10). No wiring needed, just plug the dimmer into the wall and plug the lamp into the dimmer, and move the control up and down as needed to maintain your 92-94 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool.

How is your humidity? If you are only using a lamp for heating, I can't imagine it being very good. They just aren't a very effective means of heating a screen-topped aquarium. Your snake is going to suffer for it and won't be able to shed properly. Undertank heating is the way to go with terrestrial reptiles. The heating pad needs to be on a GOOD thermostat so your snake doesn't overheat or get too cold. Aquarium housing is very hard to heat as glass doesn't retain heat well. The screen lid doesn't help much either as it lets all the humidity and heat escape. If you can get a small piece of plexiglas too while you are at Home Depot/Lowe's, you can cover most of the screen top with that, and just drill enough holes so your heat/humidity stay IN the tank and not escape.

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Originally Posted by SatanicIntention

You need to do whatever you can to maintain steady and consistant temperatures 24/7. Go to Home Depot and get a Lutron Credenza lamp dimmer(some are $8 and some are $10). No wiring needed, just plug the dimmer into the wall and plug the lamp into the dimmer, and move the control up and down as needed to maintain your 92-94 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool.

How is your humidity? If you are only using a lamp for heating, I can't imagine it being very good. They just aren't a very effective means of heating a screen-topped aquarium. Your snake is going to suffer for it and won't be able to shed properly. Undertank heating is the way to go with terrestrial reptiles. The heating pad needs to be on a GOOD thermostat so your snake doesn't overheat or get too cold. Aquarium housing is very hard to heat as glass doesn't retain heat well. The screen lid doesn't help much either as it lets all the humidity and heat escape. If you can get a small piece of plexiglas too while you are at Home Depot/Lowe's, you can cover most of the screen top with that, and just drill enough holes so your heat/humidity stay IN the tank and not escape.

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I have one of those things to check humidity...what should the comfort zone be for them?


As for the heat lamp, I should just keep it on 24/7?




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His humidity is normal...it could use a little more but the caresheet says anywhere between 50%-60%.


As far for temps..I gotta check.

I guess I am not seeing where the confusing part is.

You do WHATEVER you have to do to maintain steady and CONSISTENT temperatures and humidity *24/7*. If that means getting an infrared heat light from the pet store and keeping it on day and night, then that is what you will have to do.

Ball Pythons are nocturnal and white light can stress them out. Soft ambient light or an infrared heat light/or ceramic heat emitter is your best bet during the day, and during the night either infrared or ceramic heat emitter.

Humidity can fluctuate between 50-60%, even in the upper 40's is fine for shorter periods of time. You want slightly humid, not a wet cage. Since you are using a heat lamp, plexiglas(cut to fit the inner lip of the screen top) covering the majority of the screen will help combat the constant battle of keeping humidity and heat in when using your type of set up.

I hope this has helped with the confusion.

Humidity should be 50-60% during non-shedding times, pushed to around 70% from the first sign (usually a pinkish belly) that the shed cycle is beginning until it is complete (over a week later). Your heating source/cycle should be whatever it takes to provide a cool side temp of 80-84 degrees and a warm side temp of 90-94 degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year unless you are cooling for breeding.


Perhaps a review of this link will help you...

http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Humidity should be 50-60% during non-shedding times, pushed to around 70% from the first sign (usually a pinkish belly) that the shed cycle is beginning until it is complete (over a week later). Your heating source/cycle should be whatever it takes to provide a cool side temp of 80-84 degrees and a warm side temp of 90-94 degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year unless you are cooling for breeding.


Perhaps a review of this link will help you...

http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

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Ok..Um, how would I increase the humidity?

75w bulb on a 10 gallon....what are your temps in there now?