Young BP and new owner feeding concerns

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Originally Posted by KevinK

I agree you need a source of regulation for the CHE, but I wouldn't say I agree with the part about a UTH being necessary.

Case in point: I don't use belly heat AT ALL, but rather only radiant heat panels for all of my animals without problems. This was the suggestion of numerous other experienced keepers as well as Bob from Pro Products. It makes sense as well, snakes don't have a source of "belly heat" in the wild to digest meals. Rather, they use a source of basking heat (which can be provided in captivity by CHE's or RHP's). Just make sure you're keeping proper temperatures directly under the bulb at substrate level.

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Do the CHE's provide ample heat like a radiant heat panel? If so I totally agree with you. I believe they don't though. People often use CHE's and a UTH. I apologize if I'm wrong but I didn't realize she had a radiant heat panel.

CHE = RHP and RHP = CHE the only difference is the surface area of the devices and the upper range of heat they get to. RHPs have more surface area and don't get as hot. That is the only difference where radiant heat is involved.

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Originally Posted by SDA

CHE = RHP and RHP = CHE the only difference is the surface area of the devices and the upper range of heat they get to. RHPs have more surface area and don't get as hot. That is the only difference where radiant heat is involved.

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Thanks Good to know.

My beep wouldnt eat when I dangled it in front of him so I left him alone and made sure it was dark and quiet and he ate :)

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

Ok, so in order to help you with that we will need pics. Weight and length are helpful, but actual shape and body condition will tell us if the animal is healthy, too skinny or dangerously thin.
Unfortunately, I've got to head to work in a few, so if I don't reply somebody else will be on to help soon.

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It won't let me post any pictures. I'll post on my profile.

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Originally Posted by Jacmiller11

It won't let me post any pictures. I'll post on my profile.

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Easiest way to upload photo is to get the free app TapaTalk ...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

This thread is all over the place. Ball pythons do not need heat panels, lights, or heating pads. What they do need optimally is a body temp between 84 and 88 degrees. How you get to that is up to you. For me this means an AC unit in the summer and a oil filled heater in the winter.

For the OP. Depending on the current condition and age of the animal, ball pythons can go quite a long time without eating. My record is an 8 month fast by an adult male. For babies less than six months old I tend to get concerned if they skip three meals.

Ball pythons will only eat if they believe they can safely digest their meals. All animals must have the proper humidity and temps. Some animals require a spot they feel confined and secure (read hides). Some animals will eat just about anything thrown their way. Others want a certain prey item heated and dangled just right, and still others may demand live.

How long the animal can go without food becomes moot once the animal eats. Vet trips can become very expensive. I would do everything I could to convince the animal to eat before taking it to the vet unless it is displaying signs of illness. The vet can't fix not eating. The vet can medicate the animal and can tube feed it. That is about it.

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Originally Posted by Jacmiller11

I never said I had a UTH. I have a ceramic heat source above.

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all heat sources need to be regulated by it her a thermostat or dimmer. We are trying to help you and your beep.

I have glass tanks. Humidity is always the issue with glass. I take a piece of cardboard the size of the screen top cut a hole for the light (trace the hood on the cardboard) and then cover the entire thing in foil. I use reptile prime bedding but Eco earth works the same for the most part. You can also put some damp not wet moss into the corners of the tank. Che goes on hot side with the uth (you will need one and control it with a thermostat) water bowl in the middle and hides in the back corners. Lots of plants to hide. Oh and cover three sides of the tank with black paper.

Here is the thing about that and it irks me a bit...

Yes, heat pads and heat panels are necessary for a large amount of the people keeping cold blooded animals in temperate climates. I wish this hobby would be more uniform like the other pet care hobbies and stop saying conflicting information simply because someone is lucky enough to live in an environment that matches their pet snake's ideal habitat. An under tank heater and if the house temperature demands it, an above tank emitter or other sort of radiant panel is very necessary and should not be told to someone starting out they are not needed. Temperature and how to achieve it with the equipment in the hobby doesn't change. The only factor that changes is how warm the room that cage is kept in... period.

Something that is a proven in the vast majority of climates to support the healthy growth and vitality of a reptile should never be discouraged when advice to a new user is given. It is far simpler to tell someone get a heat mat/heat tape and CHE/RHP than it is to try and explain the engineering principles of heating a confined space to the exact conditions necessary in the geographic location of your point on the planet. It would be as foolish of me to explain the conditions I keep my snake in in West Tennessee as the gospel truth as it is to assume someone should do the same because they live in Canada or Southern Florida. Instead we offer standards of care that should be endorsed and followed to avoid confusion.

Even breeders use heat tape or heat panels for their snakes in racks. That's like saying I'll just heat my basement to 82 degrees and everyone should be fine. you will still have varying degrees all over the room. And heat rises so unless your snake is on the ceiling......lol