New Ball Python Concerns

I haven't seen it mentioned in the other very good posts, but you should not be handling at all unless it's to change the tank stuff.

Here's a good inexpensive thermometer that will measure humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891...ef=ast_p_pg_ma

You can find these at Walmarts as well, if you don't want to use Amazon.

Petsmart is nothing more than a dumping ground for snake wholesalers. They have no information on the feeding history of the snakes they get in other than what they try and feed. They offer f/t regardless of previous feeding from a breeder. The stressed out conditions these snakes arrive into these stores and the dismal conditions they often keep them in compound the issue.

Assist feeding is a last resort and should not be considered a normal act of feeding.

As other's have said, find live prey and offer that to get them feeding again. Square up your husbandry as recommended. The top priority right now is removing as much stressful conditions as you can. Clutter, proper heat and humidity, proper hides, blocking off back and sides of tank, reduced handling unless absolutely necessary, and minimal interaction until successful multiple feedings (I would say 3 in this case) are things you must do.

Like so many of us with big hearts we sometimes let our emotions override our judgement. You can with proper husbandry get this little one to a healthy and stress free environment but it will take a lot more effort than if you would have purchased through a reputable breeder.

Follow the guidelines offered by the amazing people here and there is a high chance you will end up with a wonderful pet.

What wattage bulb would you recommend using for a 10 gallon tank to keep the hot side at the correct temp?

I use a 40 red for my 10gallon. I also have a uth as well. Both on the hot side. This also keeps my ambient at 81. I also have an accurite temp/humid digital gauge

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

I use a 40 red for my 10gallon. I also have a uth as well. Both on the hot side. This also keeps my ambient at 81. I also have an accurite temp/humid digital gauge

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the 40 W red also keeps the hot side around 90? Also are you using aspen or eco-earth? Last, where do you keep the temp probe for the UTH

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Originally Posted by pilot

the 40 W red also keeps the hot side around 90? Also are you using aspen or eco-earth? Last, where do you keep the temp probe for the UTH

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The 40 above with the uth keeps the hotspot at 90. I'm using reptile prime which is a coco husk substrate. Eco earth is a coco substrate as well but is dustier and tends to get muddy with too much moisture.

Temp probe one from a thermostat or thermometer? Two different things?

therostat probe goes between the glass and uth.

Thermometer probe usually goes someplace on the Hotside, cool side, and middle or all three. And never use tape inside the enclosure. A hot glue gun works better.

and my accurite thermometer/hygrometer does not have a probe. It sits in the front middle of my tank.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

The 40 above with the uth keeps the hotspot at 90. I'm using reptile prime which is a coco husk substrate. Eco earth is a coco substrate as well but is dustier and tends to get muddy with too much moisture.

Temp probe one from a thermostat or thermometer? Two different things?

therostat probe goes between the glass and uth.

Thermometer probe usually goes someplace on the Hotside, cool side, and middle or all three. And never use tape inside the enclosure. A hot glue gun works better.

and my accurite thermometer/hygrometer does not have a probe. It sits in the front middle of my tank.

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Oops meant the temp probe to the thermostat. Thank you though for the information! It will absolutely help and changes will be made today.

It is often difficult to get the probe wedged between one of those zoomed type heat mats and the glass. One solution is to get some styrofoam or foam board and get a little channel made in it to set the probe into and place the board/styrofoam under the tank with the probe of course positioned in the middle of the UTH. This will still get you the contact with the UTH and provide adequate control without having to worry about the UTH not making contact with the tank.

So it would go from bottom up: Table > styrofoam/foamboard > probe > UTH on glass bottom of tank > tank. Just make sure when you position and place the probe that it is not too deep in the foam that it won't contact the UTH.

Just something to keep in mind if you have trouble positioning the probe.

A 50-60 watt should be fine for a 10 gallon tank should be enough to keep hotside at 90 and cool side around 80 how high is the tank? I know they make some tanks taller then others this will also be a factor in the wattage of bulbs your gonna use but for the most part 50-60 watt should be good for yoir tank size and for the probe placement if you place it between tank and heater your gonna have to set it a bit higher cause your gonna lose a few degrees just through the glass alone not to mention when you add the substrate so keep that in mind

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Originally Posted by Lapara157

A 50-60 watt should be fine for a 10 gallon tank should be enough to keep hotside at 90 and cool side around 80 how high is the tank? I know they make some tanks taller then others this will also be a factor in the wattage of bulbs your gonna use but for the most part 50-60 watt should be good for yoir tank size and for the probe placement if you place it between tank and heater your gonna have to set it a bit higher cause your gonna lose a few degrees just through the glass alone not to mention when you add the substrate so keep that in mind

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Its just a standard 10G tank, assuming 12 inches tall but not 100% sure on that. Also, I'm assuming it wouldn't be a bad idea to occasionaly take the temp inside the hide on the hot side to assure UTH is set to the right temp?