Concerned about new Banana Ball

Your night bulb will work good until you get a thermostat for the uth. It's kinda crazy they don't even say on the package or instructions that you need one. Even that smallest one is to hot without a thermostat.

Heat rocks are an absolute no. I'm glad you asked before you put one in!

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Obviously assist feeding is only for when weight gain or loss is an issue. Conditions are essential for successful feeding such as temperatures and adequate hide. I prepare my rodents by defrosting in warm water then changing the water to warm water before feeding. Then i warm the head of the rodent on a light bulb as this mimics a live rodent, this has always worked for me with even the fussiest of feeders. Asf's or multis are sometimes needed to get them started though.
As for the bathing thats a sign of too hot temperatures or possibly mites so check your hides belly heat temp (i use the happy medium 31.5°), and check for small black dots under the scales or the developed mites will be crawling about. I'm sure this probably been already mentioned but different things work for different people and this has worked for me for a long time 👍

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Just keep at it [emoji6] MOST bp's are fussy eaters! My male normal is a few times a year eater might eat 15 times the whole year then he'll go off for 8 months. Without significant weight loss make sure your husbandry is on point and the rest will follow.

I have a female Mojave that would eat every 45 minutes if she could she's an absolute hog, will eat during shed. The killerblast I have the breeder said he was the same way (very reputable breeder) and will eat the same as my mojo. But then there's my normal male, under my females weight by a TON and has a good 4 years on her. As long as they aren't losing significant body weight they're fine. Even if they start as little triangular noodles [emoji12] good luck!


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Have you tried asfs? I breed asfs, and usually when I have a snake that starts to refuse everything else I offer one of them. Im not gonna go over what everyone else has touched on....buuut I do believe something doesnt make sense to me.... hes about 7 months old, right? And even if he had been eating every other week at the breeders before you got him, he should look like skin and bones or almost dead at 75g right now. Some hatchlings weigh 75g or more right outta the egg! From the picture, he does look a bit lean,but not skin and bones. Is there a possibility that maybe hes quite a bit younger than what the breeder told you? Is there any way you could post a few more photos of him? Like belly shots, and him stretched out slithering?

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Originally Posted by LadyEnfinity

Hi Karyana :)

Grats on the new baby! He sure is a handsome devil.

As far as feeding FT - I prefer this, others don't, it comes down to your preference for your snake. If you really don't want to feed him live, there are quite a few tricks to getting them interested and I'm sure that you can find most of them on this site.
If you stick with it and find a trick that works, I'm sure he'll be fine.

I, too, worry like crazy about every single one of my snakes. Just try to get him on a regular schedule and hopefully he'll gain some weight. Most of the snakes I've purchased or adopted seem to be on the same 2 week feeding schedule, which I personally disagree with. I think that may be what they consider "maintenance feeding" - basically so shops and breeders can keep their feeding costs down.

Thankfully, he sounds happy and active - I wouldn't worry too much unless he's still unable to eat on his own after 2-3 feeds, but that's honestly just a guess on my part.

Best of luck to you and your new ball!

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Just wanted to reply to this. My big female ball who is over 1700 grams now (336 grams February 2015) she hit 1500 by that December and was fed mostly every 2 weeks. It's not maintenance feeding. Some could argue feeding an adult a large rat every week would be over feeding. It all depends on the snake. I was also breeding my own rats and fed them very well so that could have played a part as well

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Originally Posted by Karyana

Chrid,

Whoa, thanks for the information. I will definitely go ahead and unplug the UTH. That's kind of scary that it gets hot enough
to burn them.... (With it being Zoo Med) I'll look into the thermostat or dimmer ASAP, should be getting my first
check from my new place of employment soon. His night bulb is 75W, and so is his day light. I'll have a more accurate
temperature reading once we get that new thermometer (which should be in the morning). I'll be shooting for the
first two on the list too then.

May I ask your opinion of the newer heat rocks that are built to shut off (fail off) or go cold VS getting
too hot that it will burn them? We don't have any of them, we still thought they could be risky. I also
plan on getting some coconut husk to add to his bedding and moss for different places, hides, for moisture.
We're thinking about doing a homemade mister/fogger. Not to keep on 24/7, just once/twice a day as the humidity
gauge says.

Thank you!!!!!!!


Coluber,

Yeah! Thanks for the tip! :D
That is actually something that we tried on the last feeding. We used a blanket, only after we knew for 19954154% that it was dead.

Thanks! xD

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I made this video exactly for people like you who don't know how dangerously high these really get.

https://youtu.be/Rh7lRwA5tBU