Heating advice

The way I thaw my f/t is run tap water as hot as it can, put rodent in leak proof bag, fill tub or pot with hot tap water, put rodent in leak proof bag in tub or pot, weight it down so the rodent stays under the water, thaw until no frozen or cool spots, take rodent and hair dryer and heat head of rodent while blowing smell into cage, offer while holding rodent with tongs. If you have an ir temp gun heat the head of rat up to 100 or a little more, if no temp gun heat head for a couple minutes. You can heat the body a bit but focus more on the head to give a good heat signature and a point of aim for the bp. Also make sure all lights are off, you should try to make it as dark as possible when feeding, getting a red bulb so you can see to feed is a good idea.

Yes I understand the cost of the snake but even if it was eating right away odds are it will go on a fast at some point and multiple times in its life. You need to be patient and getting one that doesn't eat from the get go is good practice. They say the reason a new snake won't eat it usually a husbandry issue. I would see if where you purchased would give you an extension do to feeding. Did you buy from a breeder or pet store? If you bought from a pet store I would see how long it took for them to get the snake to eat after they first received it. From a breeder that information won't help, usually they are in small secure tubs so moving to a bigger glass tank can be stressful alone, more clutter and dark secure hides can help with that such as the hides from reptile basics.

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Ok I just seen your pic. How big is the snake? That seems like a big tank. The hide on the right is very wide open and doesn't offer very much security. You should also have identical hides so your snake can't play favorites and will regulate body temp correctly. Like I said in post above reptile basics hides are the best IMO. They are very dark and secure and cheap! You would need one for each side. If you decide to buy the medium should be the smallest size you consider buying, the smalls are tiny. Depends on the size of your snake which one to get, you want them to be a snug fit so make sure to pay attention to the measurements. I highly recommend you order them from reptile basics. Depending on the size of the snake you may want to either buy a tub to house it in or make a divider to shrink the size of your glass tank.

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I'd switch your hide on the right side for one similar to the left. RBI makes the best hides in my opinion and they don't necessarily HAVE to be RBI brand because a few companies make them but I'd recommend getting 2 identical in your tank setup personally I only use 1 hide in my tubs because they're more secure so just having one isn't a big deal.

My male goes off feed for about 8 months out of the year. Always has and it's incredibly annoying. My female Mojave would eat every 45 minutes if I'd let her and has never missed a meal even in shed. Don't give up after 2 weeks. If your snake isn't losing SIGNIFICANT body weight he'll be fine with proper husbandry.


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Ok so thought i would post an update at need what my next step should be. Based on posts from those who replied i set the tank up with the heating pad attached to a stat. The probe for that is laying on the glass under the substrate. I have the hide over the pad with a thermometer probe in that hide over the substrate. I then have thermo/humidty one inside the tank on the far end of the cool side along with a third thermometer with the probe inside the cool hide. My temps on the pad are set at 89 so the stat kicks the pad on at 87 and off at 91 the probe above the substrate will read 87 to 89. The cold side im keeping at about 85. It does fluctuate a couple degrees with the temps of the day but i got a bigger heat lamp which is now helping keep it more controlled. I then waited a week since her last attempt at feeding. She has still yet to eat and it is now two weeks in. Shes straight up coils away from food and either curls up into her hide or takes off in the opposite direction. Wondering what my next option is, short of returning her, and when i should attempt that option. This is particularly frustrating given how much i paid for this snake and the fact that i have never had a ball python not feed. And this is by far the best set up i have ever had for any of my animals. Oh and based on the feed record from the store its been 22 days since shes eaten

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Originally Posted by OTorresUSMC

The probe for that is laying on the glass under the substrate.

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You do know fluids/urine will change the reading of the probe? That's why it shouldn't be inside.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

You do know fluids/urine will change the reading of the probe? That's why it shouldn't be inside.

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Well the pad was already attached to the glass didnt want to risk pulling off and damaging it so went inside under the substrate. Also just saw the last two posts. The snake is about two feet in length and i weighed her in at 383 grams if im remembering right. I was a little concerned this tank might be big for her right now so i like that divider idea.

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Originally Posted by OTorresUSMC

Well the pad was already attached to the glass didnt want to risk pulling off and damaging it so went inside under the substrate. Also just saw the last two posts. The snake is about two feet in length and i weighed her in at 383 grams if im remembering right. I was a little concerned this tank might be big for her right now so i like that divider idea.

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Just gently peel back the uth and push the probe in and then firmly push uth back in place. I have done it plenty of times and have even moved uth to different setups. You can foil tape the uth back down if your worried about it. Like Pit said urine, fluid, snake bumping it can all damage or change the reading and could run the uth way to hot and harm your snake. The only probe the should be under the substrate is the thermometer probe.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Just gently peel back the uth and push the probe in and then firmly push uth back in place. I have done it plenty of times and have even moved uth to different setups. You can foil tape the uth back down if your worried about it. Like Pit said urine, fluid, snake bumping it can all damage or change the reading and could run the uth way to hot and harm your snake. The only probe the should be under the substrate is the thermometer probe.

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I suppose i could give that a shot. Let me ask this obviously the temp on/above the substrate is going to be a little lower as it will disapate the heat so should i bump the stat to say 92 or just leave it where it is at 89? Also i dont know how much i have to really worry about it getting damaged as its actually a probe designed to be submerged in soil for plant beds, which obviously get watered. Its all metal and im assuming water proof.

It's hard to compare the safety of plants to the safety of a snake. But if the snake pooped on it then it would give the wrong reading and you would have take it out and clean it and if you didnt catch it right away the thermostat would not heat the same. Plus the fact if the snake does bump the wire and the probe is no longer sitting up against the glass then the thermostat would be heating the uth way to hot to try to get probe back to temp.

When you put the thermostat probe between the cage and uth you will have to bump up the the thermostat do to heat loss through the glass. Just take your temp inside under substrate and have it no higher than 94. If your not getting a temp of 88-90 om top of substrate thin out your substrate over the uth to get it to temp.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

It's hard to compare the safety of plants to the safety of a snake. But if the snake pooped on it then it would give the wrong reading and you would have take it out and clean it and if you didnt catch it right away the thermostat would not heat the same. Plus the fact if the snake does bump the wire and the probe is no longer sitting up against the glass then the thermostat would be heating the uth way to hot to try to get probe back to temp.

When you put the thermostat probe between the cage and uth you will have to bump up the the thermostat do to heat loss through the glass. Just take your temp inside under substrate and have it no higher than 94. If your not getting a temp of 88-90 om top of substrate thin out your substrate over the uth to get it to temp.

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Got it. Im going to be moving the tank into its own room so ill prob go aheadand make those adjustments once thats done. Im not optimistic thats going to make her eat tho. At what point does one decide to go the vet route and force feed??