Please Help! My ZooMed Terrarium is too cold:(

Leave it unplugged until you have a way to control it with a thermostat.

Your hot spot is basically 50 degrees higher than it should be and over 40 degrees higher than is safe for your BP. That is what everyone has been warning you of this entire thread and what I suspected from the beginning.

In the mean time, you will need to find a way to raise temps in the enclosure in general. You can use those heat bulbs to do that - just make sure you're still using your temp gun to check all over the tank several times a day and raise or lower the bulbs as appropriate.

When you get your thermostat (which is actually a rheostat), you may plug your heat mat into it, and the it into the wall and adjust it until you get the glass temperature back to safe - 90 degrees or so. Since it is a rheostat, you will need to keep checking temps daily and make adjustments as necessary.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Just make sure under the substrate on top of glass over the heat mat is no hotter than 95. The reason you want to check under substrate is bc snakes will burrow. Also make sure you check all over the heat mat bc temp can be higher in other spots, the hottest spot should not be above 95. If it is over 95 you will need to unplug it until you get the thermostat and use a 40-60w red bulb until you get it or keep the room around 83-85. If you use a red bulb bc the uth is to hot then you will want to check temp on top of substrate right where the middle of the bulb hits and raise the lamp higher off cage if its hotter than 92. The rheostat you ordered works like a dimmer so it doesn't automatically adjust which means if your room temp changes you will have to raise or lower the rheostat yourself so make sure you check your temps a few times a day.

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Is there one that has a prob so I can position on top of the heat pad and automatically regulate the heat?

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Your hot spot is basically 50 degrees higher than it should be and over 40 degrees higher than is safe for your BP. That is what everyone has been warning you of this entire thread and what I suspected from the beginning.

In the mean time, you will need to find a way to raise temps in the enclosure in general. You can use those heat bulbs to do that - just make sure you're still using your temp gun to check all over the tank several times a day and raise or lower the bulbs as appropriate.

When you get your thermostat (which is actually a rheostat), you may plug your heat mat into it, and the it into the wall and adjust it until you get the glass temperature back to safe - 90 degrees or so. Since it is a rheostat, you will need to keep checking temps daily and make adjustments as necessary.

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I see. Thank you very much :)

Do you have any good thermostat you can recommend? I can just cancel the rheostat order.

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

Is there one that has a prob so I can position on top of the heat pad and automatically regulate the heat?

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A Hydrofarm (or JumpStart) or Herpstat thermostat will do what you need it to here. You'd put the probe for either of these sandwiched between the heat pad and the glass (on the outside of the enclosure) and dial in your temps from there. Once that's done, the thermostat will keep itself there and adjust itself as needed with the room temp fluctuations.

EDIT: The Herpstat is what I recommend. The Hydrofarm is a budget option.

I found these two:

Zoo Med ReptiTemp 500R Remote Sensor Thermostat

Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed germination, Reptiles and Brewing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

A Hydrofarm (or JumpStart) or Herpstat thermostat will do what you need it to here. You'd put the probe for either of these sandwiched between the heat pad and the glass (on the outside of the enclosure) and dial in your temps from there. Once that's done, the thermostat will keep itself there and adjust itself as needed with the room temp fluctuations.

EDIT: The Herpstat is what I recommend. The Hydrofarm is a budget option.

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Is this the Herpstat?

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7698/2...f0206b18_b.jpg

All thermostats use a probe, you put the probe between the heating pad and the glass. If you have one of the tack on zoomed pads, if you try to take it off now, you'll probably have to just throw it away. Also, your substrate on the hot end is far too thick, I find that having a very slight layer (half inch thick tops) of substrate works because you dont have to worry about a major difference between the temp of the glass and the temp of the top of the substrate.

Other than that, your issue is that you dont seem to have a lamp to heat up your ambient, also, ive seen no mention of your humidity or a picture of a meter for it, but i can see that your temps are low, your tank is glass and you have a completely open lid. I can probably guess that your humidity is in the 40% range, which is below the comfort zone. This combination is the reason your snake makes noises, its on the brim of getting a respiratory infection, especially since now its only source of heat has been turned off since it was its immediate source of danger.

If you have a space heater, i would point it at the tank (only close enough to get the inside to 80. Then, take a damp towel and cover up the screen lid. If you dont have a space heater, check the temps of one of your closets, if its 80 in the closet (probably is if the doors are closed) put the tank in there until you get a heat lamp, a dimmer and a thermostat.

If im mistaken and you -DO- have a lamp, if you cover up 80% of that lid with a damp towel and have the lamp taking up the remaining 20%, you should see a rise in your temp and humidity.

Also, no heat caves.

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

Is this the Herpstat?

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7698/2...f0206b18_b.jpg

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That's the Hydrofarm/Jump Start.

These are Herpstats: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index....=index&cPath=1. Herpstat 1 is what you would need.

Physics shows that both hot air rises and that temps equalize by warm air traveling to cooler air (and cool air traveling to hot air), having a completely open lid will make it nearly impossible to keep heat inside of the tank. It needs its exit routes restricted.