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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
(Also I noticed that a lot of users have "thanked x times in y threads." Is there a button for that or does the site take care of it automatically?)
At the bottom left of each post there is a button with a thumbs-up with the word "Thanks" next to it. It's basically a "like button" where you can show your appreciation for what's been posted. :gj:
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
FWIW, long detailed posts are *way* better at getting useful answers to your questions than short, uninformative ones. :)
I'm sure others will weigh in, but here are my two cents:
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
1) Any thoughts on sliding vs. hinged doors? I've heard/read people both.
In a classroom setting, I would think the most important concern is getting whichever will be least likely to be left open. Same goes for whatever locks or latches are required to keep the snake from pushing it open, that could get forgotten. Get whatever you think looks foolproof and forget-proof for your kids.
2) Any thoughts on florescent vs. LED lighting? I've heard/read people both.
The snake doesn't actually need the lights - they'd just be for you to see better. LED's are more efficient, smaller, can't really break, etc. They're not really a necessity anyway though.
Temperature and Humidity-
For the t-Stat I will invest in a Herpstat that can manage at least 2 devices. I'll pick up an 80 watt RBI RHP and heat tape (just to be safe). I'll also pick up a hygrometer, and two digital thermometers.
Questions-
1) The equipment listed above will indeed address the issue the woman spoke of and the initial experience that Coluber42 had correct? I just want to be as certain as possible before taking on this responsibility.*Quotes of each at the bottom of this post.
You can use a cheap digital thermometer of the type that shows the temperature inside and outside your house, either with a wired probe or with a separate piece that transmits to the main unit. They cost under $20 and have hygrometers too.
2) Once all of this equipment is dialed in to produce the right conditions, what is a safe amount of time to leave the snake alone? (I suppose answers may be contingent on what I continue to learn about the ambient temperatures of my room though.)
It's hard to imagine that your room will get too cold for the above listed equipment to maintain the temperature, unless they drain the plumbing and turn the heat off completely over spring break or something... are freezing pipes even an issue in SF? Humidity might be harder to maintain if you're gone for a week, but that would depend on your external humidity.
3) How difficult is it dial the equipment (particularly the Herpstat), and once I do is it more or less set forever if I use the pulse and not the dimming mode, or will it need regular adjustments as the seasons change? (Students and I will however keep a detailed temperature and humidity log of the snakes enclosure-all part of the great experience this snake will make to my classroom).
Most likely, once it's set up, the thermostat will take care of it. That's what it's for. Keep an eye on it just to make sure nothing funny is going on, but you shouldn't need to adjust anything once it's set up.
4) If I do end up with a AP T8, what should I expect to do to maintain humidity levels? At the Vivarium I went to they spray twice a day but they are in wooden enclosures.
5) Is providing a humid hide with moist sphagnum moss sufficient for a ball python over weekends? In general?
That will depend on the ambient humidity in your classroom, and on the temperature differential between the cage and the room (since cooler air doesn't hold as much moisture). You might not have to do much at all, or you might have to put some moist moss in there, or mist periodically. The humidity will be more stable when the doors stay closed (duhh), so putting in some sphagnum moss will probably be totally fine over the weekends, even long ones.
Snake-
I am still leaning heavily towards a normal (or inexpensive morph) of a ball python based on my limited experience handling them and corn snakes. I also prefer their appearance. However, I do appreciate that corn snakes are more easier feeders, more active during the day (which could be nice for students when simply watching it) and generally hardier. As such I am still open to a corn snake but would really want to find an extremely chill one when it comes to handling like the snake that SamSimon described.
One reason to go with a ball python over a corn snake is that a corn that freaks out and decides to run for the hills is very fast and fairly skinny (even a larger adult), and could disappear into tiny dark holes before you know it. An adult ball python that freaks out and tries to run isn't as fast and can't fit into as many small spaces. Anyone handling the snake needs to be calm and gentle obviously, but it does seem to me that an adult ball python may be less likely to get irretrievably lost if things go haywire (and even a chill one could panic given enough commotion).
Question-
1) I would just like to hear your thoughts on this matter though I appreciate you may be just a little biased ;)
Corns are wonderful, too. I miss mine every day. :(
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
Wow, thank you everyone! As Eric said what a great team. It's awesome to know that as I enter the world of keeping snakes there is such a friendly and helpful community. I'm learning a ton and starting to feel like I have a lot more direction. I will be sure to PM all of you a thank you at the end of the thread (which will include pictures of what I end up with). (Also I noticed that a lot of users have "thanked x times in y threads." Is there a button for that or does the site take care of it automatically?)
Just a quick disclaimer before I jump in-
In what follows I will just shoot out any questions that I currently have. This is only the second forum I've ever joined so I'm still getting used to the medium. Constructive feedback on the nature of my posts (i.e. too long(?)) is welcome. Also, if there is a salient thread that I have not yet found it is not for a lack of trying and would appreciate being referred to it. I'm doing as much research as I can in my free time, much of it on this site, but it is a lot to navigate in the time I have available.
Update on Circumstances, my Plans/Questions by Topic:
Circumstances:
As of day 1 the ambient room temperature was at a steady 72 degrees Fahrenheit.
Man, my students and I are fortunate that the school is in a well of area. Families have continued to donate to my GoFundMe and I know have a budget of $645.00 (I do also have over 70 students though). Of course this does not mean I need to spend it all. I do want to show that I am being honest with their donations however so any remainder will be used on a gift card to a pet store for food. In so doing I will be able to produce receipts for all funds.
Plans/Questions by Topic:
Enclosure-
If I buy an enclosure I will go with the T8 including door locks and lighting. Depending on the size of the snake I may buy the divider but will definitely go for an adult that I feel confident was regularly handled and has a great disposition. If I don't buy an enclosure it is because one or both of the tanks that a parent offered to donate will work in my circumstances. I will likely have to follow up with some questions when I learn more about them. I will also be sure to get and opaque covering for the tank to provide it an escape from all the happenings in my classroom. I may also do the
Questions-
1) Any thoughts on sliding vs. hinged doors? I've heard/read people both.
2) Any thoughts on florescent vs. LED lighting? I've heard/read people both.
1) Personal preference. If it was for a retic or burm, i'd say go sliding doors as they can double as a shield.
2) Again personal preference. I use an 18" under cabinet fluorescent light for my HDPE cage but will probably go to either AP or RBI led tubes or install my own Home Depot ones in my Ap cages this summer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
Temperature and Humidity-
For the t-Stat I will invest in a Herpstat that can manage at least 2 devices. I'll pick up an 80 watt RBI RHP and heat tape (just to be safe). I'll also pick up a hygrometer, and two digital thermometers.
Go to Walmart or Target and buy http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-I...r-00891/896347.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
1) The equipment listed above will indeed address the issue the woman spoke of and the initial experience that Coluber42 had correct? I just want to be as certain as possible before taking on this responsibility.*Quotes of each at the bottom of this post.
2) Once all of this equipment is dialed in to produce the right conditions, what is a safe amount of time to leave the snake alone? (I suppose answers may be contingent on what I continue to learn about the ambient temperatures of my room though.)
3) How difficult is it dial the equipment (particularly the Herpstat), and once I do is it more or less set forever if I use the pulse and not the dimming mode, or will it need regular adjustments as the seasons change? (Students and I will however keep a detailed temperature and humidity log of the snakes enclosure-all part of the great experience this snake will make to my classroom).
4) If I do end up with a AP T8, what should I expect to do to maintain humidity levels? At the Vivarium I went to they spray twice a day but they are in wooden enclosures.
5) Is providing a humid hide with moist sphagnum moss sufficient for a ball python over weekends? In general?
1) Heat lamps just aren't good period. CHEs and RHPs are fine. And you want the RHP to only cover half the ceiling on a cage. You still need a temperature gradient.
2) I generally avoid handling new snakes until they have eaten with no problem 3 times in a row so with a BP, would be probably 3 weeks or so. You can change water and do routine cage stuff so the snake gets to know you but try to avoid long handling times. And obviously give 2-3 days after eating before handling.
3) They are easy to set up and for a RHP I would use the dimming mode. That's what I use for all my UTHs, CHEs and RHPs. Also there is a low/high temp alarm you turn on and set the low and high thresh holds for when the alarm goes off.
4) Just buy a large water dish and place it in the middle or the cage or slightly off under the RHP. You should have no problem with humidity. I use aspen in my HDPE cage with a RHP and a large water bowl and I sit at 60-70% humidity without even trying.
5) Depends on your humidity. I don't use them on any of my snakes but I also keep their humidity between 50-70% depending on if in shed or not. Its about controlling the air flow which a PVC cage will do just by design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
Question-
1) I would just like to hear your thoughts on this matter though I appreciate you may be just a little biased
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
;)
I personally prefer boas over a corn or BP but that's just me. Both my boas are far more outgoing and actually like to come out and ride on me while I do stuff. My BP seems to really care less if she comes out or sits in her hide.
*Relating to Question 1 from the "Enclosure-" section.
In my OP I mentioned that a seemingly knowledgeable clerk at a specialized Vivarium store said something to the following effect about high wattage heat lamps: "while it will be able to heat the entire tank (I am open to wood, plastic, glass or melamine) even in a cold room, it would heat up so quickly that the thermostat will quickly shut it off and it will not be possible to maintain the correct temperature." This sounds similar to what Coluber42 said "I have a 20-gallon tank with foam wrapped around three sides plus the bottom, and an 80-watt RHP. I modified the screen top to hold the RHP and covered over most of the remaining screen area. One 80-watt panel is cheaper than two 40-watt ones; and if you end up not needing all that wattage, it will just run at a lower power (or just not all the time) and it will be fine.
I had the RHP on a cheaper thermostat for awhile, but it made for really wide temperature swings; and in such a cold room, the temperature was swinging up and down pretty fast, too."[/QUOTE]
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I have a related/unrelated question to this whole project... (which I think is awesome, by the way). Will you or someone from your class be caring for the snake once summer break comes around? I know here, that's only about 2 months away. Just want to make sure you weren't planning on leaving it in the classroom over the summer. :)
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
I like LED lighting, as it usually produces less heat, and good LEDs last a long time. I use aquarium fixtures, so I don't have to worry about over-spray when cleaning or misting.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy
I have a related/unrelated question to this whole project... (which I think is awesome, by the way). Will you or someone from your class be caring for the snake once summer break comes around? I know here, that's only about 2 months away. Just want to make sure you weren't planning on leaving it in the classroom over the summer. :)
This is something that I have been thinking about quite a bit. As it stands I will most likely keep it in the classroom over the summer vacation. However, I will be teaching a summer school and pass by my school every day and come in regularly to work on my plans for the coming year.
Between this, the fact that the summers are pretty mild out here, and the fact that there will be summer school (though not in my room) and the temperatures will continue to be managed during the day made me think that this would work out.
That said if you think I've overlooked something I would love to hear about it.
One other thing I am considering is allowing students to take it home over the break. I am much less certain about this and I would have to feel extremely confident about both the student and their parents. I would also visit their house to set up all of the equipment. I don't really know whether this will end up happening there are some families that I would feel consider doing this with. For example one family has kept ball pythons before and the father of another student breeds woma pythons.
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
This is something that I have been thinking about quite a bit. As it stands I will most likely keep it in the classroom over the summer vacation. However, I will be teaching a summer school and pass by my school every day and come in regularly to work on my plans for the coming year.
Between this, the fact that the summers are pretty mild out here, and the fact that there will be summer school (though not in my room) and the temperatures will continue to be managed during the day made me think that this would work out.
That said if you think I've overlooked something I would love to hear about it.
One other thing I am considering is allowing students to take it home over the break. I am much less certain about this and I would have to feel extremely confident about both the student and their parents. I would also visit their house to set up all of the equipment. I don't really know whether this will end up happening there are some families that I would feel consider doing this with. For example one family has kept ball pythons before and the father of another student breeds woma pythons.
I would not leave it in the classroom over the summer. While most snakes would actually be okay in a good enclosure if checked on every couple of days, but face it... Summer will get here, Maybe you'll have a long weekend, you'll think "ah... I can check on it tomorrow".... then the hot water tank goes out at your house, and your focus changes. Before long, it's been 2 weeks and you think, Oh, I have to go feed that snake!. Unknown to you, they shut power off at the school for the past week to fix an electrical problem. Snake is a goner.
While that scenario is pretty unlikely (and I hope your hot water tank is fine), things do happen, and life happens. Personally, I'd take it home myself for summer break, or if you know of a family who is willing to take the time to learn, and be responsible snake owners for a few months, let them take it. Just because someone has or has had snakes, doesn't mean they're good at it. Also, if someone already has snakes, you need to make sure they can keep this snake and tank isolated from their others for a quarantine period. Some folks would suggest 90 days, others suggest 6 months. Just to prevent any illness or health issues from spreading. Really, it's not hard to keep a reptile once you have all of the husbandry issues in check. It is nice to be able to keep an eye on the animal, its enclosure (or messes it makes), and the electrical devices all daily, just to make sure things are all within limits.
This is just my 2 cents...
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
[QUOTE=LittleTreeGuy;2426001]I would not leave it in the classroom over the summer. While most snakes would actually be okay in a good enclosure if checked on every couple of days, but face it... Summer will get here, Maybe you'll have a long weekend, you'll think "ah... I can check on it tomorrow".... then the hot water tank goes out at your house, and your focus changes. Before long, it's been 2 weeks and you think, Oh, I have to go feed that snake!. Unknown to you, they shut power off at the school for the past week to fix an electrical problem. Snake is a goner.
This is a great point. On the one had I was thinking that it would be super easy to stop by several times a week as I will have to pass by my school 5 times a week. On the other hand I totally see what you are saying and it might even be possible for me to take a donated tank to my house.
Now this might be a crazy question but... I exclusively ride a motorcycle and my commute is 45 minutes. If I were to put a snake in a nice pillow case, on top of a pillow, in a large 50 liter Chromebag, could I safely transport it on my motorcycle?
It would be great if this were possible but I absolutely would not want to stress the snake. i simply don't know whether being in something like a pillow case might keep it very relaxed...
If not I can totally rent or borrow a car and transport the entire tank.
It would also just be sweet to have the snake all to myself, possibly chilling with me for TV and video games.:gj:
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellsAekel
1) Any thoughts on sliding vs. hinged doors? I've heard/read people both.
I prefer sliding doors. I've found swing doors greatly increase the chances of the snake bursting out of the enclosure at feeding time.
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Re: *Room Temperature and Enclosure Temperature (What are the Limits for the Room?)
Sauzo made a similar point, and lucky me they are cheaper too. Sliding doors it is unless someone chimes in with a big pro for hinged doors that I should weigh....
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