BP won't eat... or has a disorder

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

Also, how can snakes know it's winter time if their cage never drops below 70 with heating lamps off? She can't see outside or feel the cold air.. it's basically summertime in her own little ecosystem.

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Why do ball pythons need to think it's winter?

In their natural range, the low air temperatures don't typically drop below the mid-upper 70s. The average annual temperature is in the low 80s. In comparison, Phoenix, AZ (which we typically think of as a hot desert), the average annual temperature is in the low 70s. It's a very consistent climate that they come from, which is why we try to recreate one in their captive environments. :)

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

Also, at night, sometimes she is under her hide with her head at the end of the hide.. she isn't balled up.. it looks like she's in striking mode, waiting to ambush food...

dumb snake. :tears:

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:rolleyes: Not dumb snake. Ball python doing what it does best. These are nocturnal ambush predators. A little tip I've learned is to feed them at night. I typically get a better feeding response when I play into what mother nature has been doing for far longer than I have been doing.

So how long should i wait after lights go off and she comes out and roams around before feeding?

Also, she doesn't like to curl up under the hide with the heating pad. She goes under the cold one.

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

So how long should i wait after lights go off and she comes out and roams around before feeding?

Also, she doesn't like to curl up under the hide with the heating pad. She goes under the cold one.

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Can't really give you an exact time. When you open their tub and their head is sticking out of their hide with their neck in that S-shape giving you "the look" it means they're ready for a meal. It's the behaviors that will give you an indication of their needs - not the numbers.

As far as the cool side vs warm side, don't fret. Just make sure the temperatures you're providing are on point (80-90 or so) and he will lay where he needs to. He knows how to control his temperature much better than you or I (as long as we allow him to do so by giving him access to the right temps).

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Originally Posted by Ballpythoncrazy

It doesn't say that you have a heat mat. Heat mats are very important for ball pythons. Heat lamps are a very poor way of heating up the enclosure of a bal. A heat mat (regulated by a thermostat) is a must. You can use a heat lamp along with it but it's not necessary. I'm assuming your snake isn't eating because the temps aren't right. There should be a hot spot of 90 degrees. Normally this would come from the heat pad. The lamps can help the ambient air temps get where they should be (and it sounds the air temps are good) but you need a spot for your BP to lay on that is 90 degrees

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Yes it does. OP stated in a later post. For convenience it's the next quote. No, a heat mat is not a must. I have 19 bp's using 0 uth. I heat the room.

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

Yes, there is a heating pad under one of hides

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

Also, how can snakes know it's winter time if their cage never drops below 70 with heating lamps off? She can't see outside or feel the cold air.. it's basically summertime in her own little ecosystem.

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Maybe your summertime, but not theirs. They live pretty close to the equator and mid 70's are their winters.
You may also want to call around for a vet who knows about bp's instead of one who thinks all snakes are created equal and should all be treated the same...

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

UV lights would possible be helpful on snakes that are active during the day time cycle.
I highly doubt it will do any good for a nocturnal animal that usually lives in rodent burrows.
I could be wrong.

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Right on.

Your royal will experience winter whether you think so or not. It's well published that boa constrictors with the same type of consistent climate experience subtle changes in pressure, daylight, temps and humidity when removed from their natural environment and put into a captive one. Vincent Russo explains this in his book and Gus Rentfro another boa expert also states this. It is not strictly related to boa constrictors either.

Snakes HAVE seasons even if to us, things are always the same.

THE BIOLOGY OF BOAS AND PYTHONS is a good scientific read.

THE COMPLETE BALL PYTHON is another good read.

There are many other studies and books out there.

Don't be over eager to feed your animal. You will do more harm than good.

It's not really a coincidence that you see "stopped eating" posts pop up for royals this time of year. Your animal is a captive and it lives here or wherever you live. We do our best to recreate their natural environment but snakes are pretty hard wired to do what they do best. Surviving and adapting to subtle changes and being secretive is their specialty. Mature snakes will cycle through some type of mating behavior, they just do, and some will stop eating for whatever reason.

If you have purchased a royal thinking you will have an animal that is constantly on the ready to eat, be handled and to be active, you have the wrong animal.

As Eric Alan and others have stated, these are nocturnal animals, and royals especially, are very secretive.

Based on tail length, body mass and some other characteristics, they are terrestrial, and do not often forage for prey, they wait and feed when they are ready. This isn't every Saturday night at 7PM, or very 10 days. It's when they are hungry.

Almost anybody who has owned one for any length of time will tell you about food refusal. It is COMMON in this species!

Wait it out, offer, and if there is no response, wait longer and offer.

Although feeding is often our most exciting interaction with these snakes, you have to realize they run the show on when and if they are going to eat.

That said, if you see significant weighty loss, skin issues, or bizarre behavior a vet may be worth a look.

A lot of folks get very excited, myself included, to own a snake as a pet, but then realize, they are what they are and unless you have a diurnal colubrid that is an active foraging animal, you may not see your snake too often.

Once you realize that some of the little things snakes do are a big deal, you can reset your thoughts and really appreciate the animal for what it is. They are a successful design that is millions of years old, and is very adaptive to small changes and some not so small changes in their environment.

I'd suggest some in-depth research on snakes in general as it is a fascinating subject.

She still hasn't accepted food. She's borrowing and trying to escape her cage still when the lights go off.

Probably going to try a gerbil

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Originally Posted by Half Crazed

She still hasn't accepted food. She's borrowing and trying to escape her cage still when the lights go off.

Probably going to try a gerbil

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Why are you still trying to feed this snake when it was recommended that you ONLY try once every week to two weeks? Personally, I would not even try a gerbil. They can be aggressive little buggers. I have a 200 gram snake that currently only likes to eat every two weeks for me. I do not try to feed her everyday. I try once a week and that is it. I think you are freaking out over nothing at this point. Give that poor snake a break and stop stressing her out.

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Originally Posted by SnowBP

I remember the days I used to worry when my snakes go off feed. Lol

I have snakes that will go 5-6 months without eating and then pick up again on it like it never happened. Who can understand it! Don't worry about it. Give her a break. Only try once a week.

Also, when you say her heat is 12 hours on and 12 off. You do have some sort of heating 24 hours though, right?

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Yeah, this. When I was new to snakes I'd stress. At this stage, lol. No. My male hit 1200 grams and promptly stopped eating. He's eaten once since about Jan. His husbandry is dead on like it always was. He isn't losing weight or showing signs of illness. He'll come back around eventually. Meanwhile hey! Rats last longer! Bonus.

Seriously, if there's no weight loss (and not a few grams but some chunk of weight loss) or illness offer food every 10 days to 3 weeks, and leave it alone. It'll eat eventually. The more you bug it, the less likely it is to eat, and the more you create your own issue.

I would highly recommend NOT trying a gerbil. It is their natural prey but once u start it may never go back. I was in that situation before. My bp went from the first week of October until late Feb before she went back to feeding. As long as it's not losing a significant amount of weight i wouldn't stress to much. I would try every 10 days and keep the handling to an absolute minimum. It will eat when it's ready.