What kit is the best for a ball python

Sterlite 15 qt locking lid - $3.??
UTH - found on sale at petsmart $16
Thermostat - $32.10
2 Hides - $5.00 each from petstore (could have used cheaper bowls or something from around the house)
Acurite indoor/outdoor temp with humidity (measures hot side and cool side) $12.84
Newspaper - $0.25
Waterbowl - Crock from Wal-mart $4.00
Soldered holes in the side free (started with fewer than needed and made more to bring down my humidity)

So $80 for this set up. Could have been cheaper if I would have used other things for hides and my wife found crocks at some Dollar store or surplus store for half the price of mine. Unless you keep you house really cold, your temps in the tub will maintain without any lights.

After much research I put 2 of these together for mine and my daughters new BPs. Stress free as my temps and humidity were so easy to get right and maintain. I recommend this to anyone who is just starting out.

The second set up was not as much because I have both UTH's plugged into the one thermostat. Some may argue that since the thermometer probe is only under one UTH the other could malfunction and harm the snake. But as for now both UTHs are keeping the same temp.

*note* click on this... I would order it now since it takes a few days. It's a pain to set it up after the enclosure is all set up.
I'm very new here, have an 86g latching and these guys have been invaluable. I would be bald by now without their advice so hopefully you don't mind me passing it along to you. Also, I see you are in Okla... If it is a very dry part of the state, I would go with the plastic because humidity is very important and hard to maintain when you live in a desert environment.


Decent reliable <albeit hopefully temporary> thermostat.

That is the same thermometer that I have and it works great. Pet stores sell similar thermostats for around $50. Here in Eastern Oklahoma we have all the humidity we can stand. The original poster asking the question is from Ohio. When I mentioned "sterlite" I should have mentioned that it is a plastic storage container for those new to this and may not be familiar with the brand name. There are many forums that will give you correct size to use and many videos on how to set them up.

My apologies, I should have gone back and looked at his. Ohio... Oklahoma. I mixed them up. My bad!!!! Oh and I'm jealous, driven thru there twice on the way to North Carolina, beautiful country. I'd kill for the humidity, living in the desert sucks behind when it comes to a glass tank <temporary housing> and a bp.

My new set up will have a herpstat... But then It will also be a custom acrylic tank so it will be easier all the way around.

I'm not sure what's been covered or not so if I cover something that was already pointed out, my apologies.

20 gallon (long) terrarium 30"x 12"x 12" (76x30x30cm) with sliding screen top.
ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater<== This must, and I repeat must be put on a thermostat, or some dimmer switch where you can control the output. I've tested these things just plugged in and let me tell you, they will give you a blister very quickly, well not sure about the brand but I know the ones from PetSmart burned my finger. Anything over 75% for me on my dimmer switch is hot to the touch, like more then you'd want for your snake. This can cause burns on your snake, so please please put on some type of a dimmer switch if you can't or won't buy a thermostat.
Mini Deep Dome Lamp Fixture<== The reason stated below, no bulb = no point for a lamp, though you can use a heat emitter but I wouldn't recommend it for a new keeper because if not put on a thermostat you can really mess things up
Daylight Blue Reptile Heat Bulb<== BP's are nocturnal though you can see them out during the day, if you were nocturnal would you want a light shining in your eyes?
Aspen Snake bedding (8 qt.)<== You can get this for like $10-12 bucks when you get stuff separate.
Analog Reptile Thermometer<== These are honestly out dated and I've found them to be fairly inaccurate.
Repti Rock Water dish (med)<== Too light and can be flipped easy, plus very shallow. Get the clay ones that are a circle, I know somebody can name it, I just can't think of the name off hand.
Plastic Bush Plant (med)<=== This just takes up room and gives mites a place to hide if you ever do happen to get mites.
Habba Hut (med)<=== A hide with only one entrance will stay darker and it provides more of a secure feeling, they have a lot better hides, though I can't name any off hand atm.
Guide to Reptile Care Booklet<=== We can give you better advice and most of all it's free.
ReptiSafe® Water Conditioner (2 oz)<=== May just be me, but I've never even heard of this?

I've underlined everything in that kit that you don't need.

First of all, you need to know what size snake you're getting before you get your set up. This will help determine what size cage to get in the beginning. I'm going to bet you're getting a baby, so buy a 10gal for now.

• The tank - it needs to have a locking lid or be secured with cage clips because a ball python can, and will, escape.
  
  • For babies up to 500-600g, you need a 10gal tank
  • For 600-1000g, you need a 20L tank
  • For 1000g+, you need a 30gal or 40gal tank
  
  
• Under tank heater - Any version is fine (whether it's an actual pad or heat tape). You just want it to cover no more than 1/3 of the floor of the tank
• Thermostat for the UTH - THIS IS A MUST AND IS NEVER INCLUDED IN THE KITS
  
  • Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...arm+thermostat
  • Midgrade: http://www.reptilebasics.com/johnson-a-419
  • The best on the market (What I prefer to use): http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/
  
  
• Thermometers - You need two digital thermometers to measure the temps on both the hot and cold side. These thermometers should have probes. I like to use these that you can buy from walmart for about $12: http://www.acurite.com/weather/therm...red-probe.html
• Hides - You need 2 identical hides. They can be as elaborate as petstore hides or as simple as Reptile Basic black hides. You just need at least two of them, one on the hot side, one on the cold side
• Clutter for the floor of the tank - this can be plants or other decoration. This just covered the floor space so your ball python feels secure.
• Substrate - you can use a variety of things (paper towel, newspaper, aspen, coco husk, cypress, reptibark, repticarpet, etc) just do not use pine or cedar bedding.

Now, how all of this differs from the kits is because the kits sell you junk that doesn't work properly. Not only that, but they do not include identical hides or thermostats. Even though you think you are saving money by buying a kit, you will have to replace all that junk eventually which will cost you later. I would highly recommend you spend a little bit more on a proper set up so you won't have issues later. I'm talking about issues like: burns, scale rot, difficulty feeding, shedding issues, defensiveness, etc. ALL of these things can be prevented if you spend the time and money to purchase the proper equipment before you get your snake.

The reptitherm, they get far too hot! There is NO need for a heater to go beyond 100ºF I would suggest ultratherm in stead.

You still need a thermostat even a heater that stays below 100ºF needs to be regulated. High 90ºs although unlikely to burn will disrupt digestion.

I would suggest save your money in the long run and buy a herpstat. (99$) they are the safest on the market, thermostats are the principal safety appliance buying a good one that is very versatile will save time and money in the long run and holds a high re-sale value.

Hydrofarms are horribly in accurate (+/-4ºF plus 3º hysteresis) I would never suggest one and only used as a back up or with indirect heating to remove the monumental swing they have. I would suggest they only be used in conjunction with a known accurate thermometer which instantly negates the savings. (herpstats are a cheap accurate thermometer in the land of sub one degree accuracy the fact it will also work as a thermostat is bonus)

analogue reptile gauges are usually junk. I am not a proponent of digital as often they too are junk. (accurite are rated to 4ºF over and under the correct temp IMO far to much) I would suggest a few cheap digitals ones (esu aquarium thermometers waterproof no batteries in the enclosure http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Digital-L...20034ef&_uhb=1 or if centigrade is confusing http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Aquarium-LCD-...fa2e4d5&_uhb=1) The law of averages works well the cheap aquarium thermometers can be had for a couple of bucks so you can buy five or ten and check them all against each other (or against a herpstat) and only use the ones in the average the ones hugely different can be set aside.

I prefer analogue hygrometers they need to have METAL face cards and a calibration screw they are easy to check (salt test) and easy to change spending 11$ of a cheap digital then 8-10$ to verify it is silly (salt tests are bad for digital units a proper test kit need to be purchased) as Accurite is rated to +/- 10%RH one should expect the need to confirm it.
http://www.amazon.com/Analog-Hygrome.../dp/B0007VWEQA

Two hides are needed.

forget the water conditioner useless.

I think the idea of kit is great until you really look at what your being sold. Fortunately Neal outlined that already so I won't have to. Seems like a good way to jump start a pet product graveyard.

As I'm still kind of a noob myself, the best advice I can give you is to slow down and take these guys seriously. There is an incredible amount of wisdom on these pages that can help you for the next 30 years that you own your snake.