RHP and an UTH?

That is fair no I did not notice the sig. I know little about boas. I know Royals. Black clearly gets warmer than white (white enclosures I have likely drop the ambient temps.) But if the snake is dark it will warm like the probe to my mind (speaking of royals and in general) they should not be able to access 100º at the hot spot. 94ºF max. the set up you have the only way to drop the hot spot is to change the wattage right? (or alter the ambient air) but a ten degree drop is dramatic (68) That is the part I fail to get, RHPs are very inefficient to heat air there is a ton of thermal loss. (78-100) 22ºF in the difference. I am trying to understand but you have described the problem (to a lesser degree) of what I have found in my case the panel is not hot enough to get the ambients correct and the hot spot is already too hot.

You describe a correct ambient temp with a too hot or at the very least questionable hot spot.

How are you measuring the substrate if not with a probe? IR guns can be quite erratic under RHPs.

I am actually trying to understand not trying to be an alarmist. I just failed to get this type of set up working at all.

Cool. First, is stated that my temps can get up to 100, as well as the fact that my RHPs are on on/off thermostats so they do not stay that temp constantly (also known as wattage change). I agree that the snake will warm like the probe does, over time of exposure. The snake is able to move away after the desired temp is achieved for whatever physiological processes may be going on.

RHPs do not heat ambient temps, we both know this as I have read your other posts. What I have done is included a concrete skull in the bp cages because I know they are less likely to bask and they will absorb and release energy that can help stabilize temps overall. My boas I don't mind allowing the to experience a greater range of temps.

I also measure temps with a combination of instruments, my setup is similar to that of Aaron's (the serpent merchant) with acccurite thermometer and IR gun. My boas cages read 78 on the accurite against the wall but the hides read 80 on the cool side, which I take as the ambient because thermal loss will be greatest near the barrier (wall of the enclosure).

I tend to think of the hot spot differently than you appear to do as well. I think of the hot spot under the RHP as a warmer area of the enclosure that the snake can seek out when it needs more heat. It is greatly unlike a hot skillet, but the animal will absorb little energy from the surface before it cools and most of the energy will come from above (as stated, snake starting at 82 and warming to 84 or whatever desired temp). I also stated that the IR temps inside the hides read mid to high 80s inside the hides (where bps usually stay, as well as my one boa).

Please let me know if anything I have described is unclear as I have been off work for a while tonight and it has coincided with consumption of etoh :)

I have had great success with ProProducts RHPs in T8s. They indeed impact ambient temps and the gradient is gained simply by having the RHP on one side of the enclosure. My thermostat probes are placed half-way up the back wall, on the warm side. If my T10 ever arrives, I'll see how it works in that. The only issue I have had is that the fluorescent bulbs heat the cage too much during warm weather.

Ok I don't see it that way. I prefer to not rely on an animal to insure that it doesn't over heat. There is a long track record of burns and over heating even where a cool spot was provided. This is my perspective I guess we will never see eye to eye. I prefer to stay on the below 94 max surface temps for me that means the hide top.


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When you order your T-8 you have the option to also buy Flexwatt. It comes pre-wired and ships with your cage. Put the cage together first, then flip it over so the bottom is on top. Lay the Flexwatt flat where you intend to have your warm spot and set something heavy on top of it so it doesn't slip or have someone help you keep it in place while you tape. Use foil tape along the three edges and let the electrical clamps protrude out the back as you don't want your cage sitting on them.

Also, AFTER you order your cage AP will email you to confirm your order is correct. If you don't get an email within 24 hrs, CALL. Ali is a peach and great on the phone. If you plan on using your enclosure for a long time (it may outlast your snake), tell them to cut the probe channel in all 3 locations (they do it for free): center, left and right. This way if you ever need to re-arrange you'll have three separate places where the flexwatt can go. And it's not necessary to elevate the T-8s. Since your flexwatt with be controlled by a thermostat and won't get over 95, it's safe to place on most wood and plastic surfaces. I have multiple stacked T8s (they also come with stacking pins) and have never had any heat related issues.