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  • 05-07-2004, 02:19 PM
    Eddie_Z
    Damien, I see what you mean now. Yeah, it is imperative to have a rheostat or thermostat hooked up. I didn't have one at first &, like you said, the surface temp was WAY too hot. That ended up being why Hissy was on the cool side all day. Once I got the rheostat hooked up, i was good. And yes, it is absolutely true what Judy said, you hafta have SOME gap in the system. I have my tank elevated by those little furniture pegs so I am good there. Also, yes, substrate does play a role. I use the retile rug/carpet. That is good at mediating the temperature.

    Jonah, you are the man, man!
  • 05-07-2004, 03:03 PM
    sophie42204
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Marla
    Engineering of one device can be very useful when making a related device. ;)

    LOL! :lol:
  • 05-07-2004, 03:08 PM
    elevatethis
    haha...this thread is gonna go up in smoke if we don't get back on topic!
  • 05-07-2004, 03:20 PM
    sophie42204
    LMAO!! Anyway, the design looks pretty simple, I have all the 'ingredients' already (good thing I'm into fish & turtles as well).....I'll have my hubby construct one this weekend.....my only worry is that I have Sophie in a 10 gallon right now and there's not much room in there......guess she'll be moving up to something bigger......actually, I have plenty of rubbermaid containers lying around, guess we could move her into that for now (I like the tank set-up better for aesthetic reasons)...
  • 05-07-2004, 05:20 PM
    Shark
    Thanks for the help, I got her today! I will go get the rest of the stuff for her tomorrow.... thanks again!
  • 05-07-2004, 07:25 PM
    JamminJonah
    Humidifier Tip! Let the caulk totally dry/set-up (about 12 hrs to be sure) before filling up the bottle and running it.. mine kept getting small leaks at first so I started over and gave it more time to form up and now it's fine.

    PS: I just figured out how to make your words fun so sorry if i'm abusing my bold underline and itallics. :lol:
  • 05-07-2004, 07:39 PM
    jotay
    In place of the rheostat you can use a slide dimmer switch ( a little cheaper than a rheostat)
    But Jonah has posted a good complete list ( yea! Jonah)
  • 05-07-2004, 11:24 PM
    sophie42204
    Thanks for the tip, we'll make it tomorrow and I'll let it cure until Sunday. I'll let ya' know how it turns out--if I ever get my camera fixed (probably will just buy a new one) I'll post a pic.
  • 05-08-2004, 07:10 AM
    Ginevive
    I use UTHs and they have never given me a problem. But they are expensive. I only bought them, instead of the cheaper human heatpads, because my friend owns a pet store and was able to cut me a deal. At your local pet store, though, they are way overpriced!
    I would never dream of using a UTH without a "dimmer" or rheostat.

    Back to the original topic... :)
    I'd use the 20-long tank rather than the taller one, which has not much floor area and will be ahrder for you to reach into. If you want a good way to retain humitity, especially during shedding times, then do this: cut a piece of plexiglass to fit snugly over the tank, and tape it securely over the tank during shedding times. This keeps the humidity in my tanks at 80-90 percent for days. When shedding is over, I replace it with plexi that has holes drilled into it.
    I never use screen lids! They can cut the snake's nose open if he/she rubs against them too often. The lone tank that I use (my other snakes are in sliding-door-type cages or rubebrmaids) is always lidded in plexiglass.
  • 05-08-2004, 07:22 AM
    tuffy110
    I put Dobby in a 10 for now with a lamp on him. I have a screen top, but also melamine on the half not covered by the light to keep humidity in. I had to put a screen in between the light and the snake cause he was going for it.
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