humidity

One more thing... i see some people tin foil the screen lid? How do i go about that? Just wrap it and poke holes in it?

I have done two types.

First make a cardboard cutout to set on the screen with a window to allow the heat from the lamps to pad through. I took that cutout and covered it with foil. This has worked well and I like that I can just lift it off if I need a better look inside without opening the lid.

The second is buy foil tape from the hardware store and cut strips to cover about 3/4 of the screen. This has also worked well but is alittle more permanent. The tape does pill off without any problem if you need to.

Don't poke holes in it just leave a bit of the screen uncovered for proper ventilation.

Are you sure the uth only reaches 80. If so you need a different one. Your bp needs a hot spot of 90 to 94. The way you control a uth is hook it to a thermostat (tstat). A tstat is set by you to the temp that you need to create the proper temp for your hot spot. Without a tstat a uth can get very hot and burn your snake. Remember that if it feels warm to you it is probably to hot for your snake.

Working with limited funds you can get a hydrofarm tstat from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...owViewpoints=1

A better choice for more money would be a Helix or Herpstat1
http://www.spyderrobotics.com/produc...tat1Basic.html

Also a good thing to have is infrared thermometer gun to check the surface temps in your cage. They can be bought pretty cheap on Amazon as well.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers


This is an amazing threa that someone shared with me and I just purchased the temp/humidity gage an IRS working very well hope this helps

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Ment it's working we'll stupid auto correct...

How much substrate on the warm side do you have? My guess is too much. Many uth get far too hot (160+) there are a few brands that do not they usually only hit (100) ultratherms are one. Too hot to be left unregulated but not hot enough to cause burns easily. It sounds like this is the pad you have. If your substrate is too thick or the cool side / ambient temps are not correct. (80 or so) this type of pad is superior to the high density ones that get very hot they simply are far safer. What is the brand of the pad you have?


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Off hand i dont recall what the pad brand is. It came in a yellow box and was about $20. When i put my hand on the substrate on the "warmer side" i hardly tell a difference but i dont want to burn him because im limited.. well no cash as of right now until friday. I was also thinking of buying a more dependable huth. I saw something about flexwatt. Can someone give me some info on that as well as the ease of installation or should i just get a pad?

Flexwatt and most pads cannot ever be run with out a thermostat!! Get the thermostat first, try thinning out the substrate and see if that solves the issue. Ultratherm uth are the best I have ever tried I prefer them to flexwatt many times over as they are far safer. Flexwatt gets hot enough it can damage itself. It should not be run over 100 degrees this makes it in operation the same as Ultratherm pads and if the self regulating pad you have is not hot enough flexwatt will not help. They are the same not much difference they are lower density heater. They have been pre regulated to the max operational temp of flexwatt.

Did your packaging look like this? Is the edges of the pad clear with black lines in it? http://www.wharfaquatics.co.uk/prodimages/r3001.jpg

This is flexwatt
http://www.reptilebasics.com/images/products/11ht.jpg

You can see that it is basically the same.



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What is the cool side temp and the ambient room temp?


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Did it look like this?

http://www.wharfaquatics.co.uk/prodimages/r3001.jpg

There are a few brands of self regulating uth pads this is the most common. They due to density of heating elements and power limiting do not get hotter than 100 degrees. Hot enough they still need to be regulated but not hot enough to burn easily. These are some if the best on the market due to the added safety level they bring.

Flexwatt needs to be wired easily done if you know what you are doing and difficult if you do not. Flexwatt gets very hot (most flexwatt that is) it is able to get hot enough that it is able to damage itself the manufacturer suggests it not be run over 100 degrees above this it runs a higher risk of causing a fire.

Ultratherms are flexwatt pre-wired and limited for safety. This is why they are so good. This is flexwatt

http://www.reptilebasics.com/images/products/11ht.jpg

Point taken?

My guess is you have far too much substrate over the warm side it should be thin ish with a heavy glass tank if if your pad is as I guess self regulating it will take very little to drop the hot side temps to too cool. Many people here only use American brand uth that get very very hot and have not ever seen the european ones like Ultratherm a few retailers are leading the way and bringing in the safer better uth to the north American market.

What are your cool side and ambient room temps?

Usually the issue of too cool warm side temps is linked to too cool cool side temps as well. Remember temps come first over humidity snakes tolerate rh variations easily temp issues not at all get your temps figured out and then deal with the humidity. Temps regulate all bodily functions humidity is mostly just the ability to complete a shed unless coupled with other issues. (ventilation)


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No it doesnt look like that and im not positive what the ambient and cool side is becausebi have one of those crappy stick-on-the-side thermometer s/hydrometers. If it is anywhere near correct ambient is about 80 cool side im not sure but i also need to swap my light bulb for another type of heat bulb i think. I like that uth you reccommended i may get that.