Lamp Thermostat ?

Its actually the other way around, the room gets too warm.. I think I have this figured out now..?

The Day/Night bulbs get it too warm in the tank when the room's temp goes up. So, I'll get rid of those and add the CHE hooked to another T-stat using one side of he double-dome and stand I already have. Then I'll look into a maybe an LED light or something low watt and non-heat emitting for illumination in the daylight hours.. Night time might just have to be dark without a lamp.? I guess, which sucks because that is when she moves a lot.

You could get a LED light bulb or a compact fluorescent bulb and put it in the other side of the double dome.

You could even get a RGB (color changing) LED bulb so it can be white during the day and red at night. Most RGB LED bulbs have a built in dimmer as well.

I've used this in the past: http://www.elementalled.com/rgb-remo...ight-bulb.html

A 60w likely will do it will need to be regulated all heat sources do but It is quite likely it is enough as the tank is not very large. I would venture a guess that it would work fine until you get into the high to mid 60s room temp than a 100w might be better perhaps...

Red is questionable, snakes do not have human vision. They see full infrared (we do not) through the spectrum we can to the dark blues where they no longer see. This would place a near IR bulb in the middle of the spectrum not at the end as it is with us. This means looking at a prism the middle colour we can see is yellow green. The near IR bulb is the middle of their spectrum we see it as deep red as we only can perceive some of the light it emits snakes can perceive all of it. The assumption is it would appear quite bright much like a regular tungsten bulb is for us. It is unlikely a 'dark colour emitting little light but more a bright light source.

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Originally Posted by BillinIndiana

Its actually the other way around, the room gets too warm.. I think I have this figured out now..?

The Day/Night bulbs get it too warm in the tank when the room's temp goes up. So, I'll get rid of those and add the CHE hooked to another T-stat using one side of he double-dome and stand I already have. Then I'll look into a maybe an LED light or something low watt and non-heat emitting for illumination in the daylight hours.. Night time might just have to be dark without a lamp.? I guess, which sucks because that is when she moves a lot.

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We use Herpstat 1's to control the heat lamps on all of our bearded dragon enclosures. We use halogen bulb flood lights which are dimmable and produce a nice hot spot. The light intensity changes are barely noticeable.

LED light's are great for supplemental lighting. I've found that even CFL bulbs output too much heat for an enclosure that has the perfect cool spot. Home Depot has a reasonably priced 40 watt LED that puts out a fair amount of light (and supposedly lasts 50 years... we'll see).

I need to work on the Hot Spot also... Right now we're just going to worry about the ambient.. We have the hot side/cool side pretty much under control.. Probably going to have to switch to the Flucker mini UTH.. The one for 10-20 gal. tanks takes up about 2/3 of the bottom.. So are difference in temps are only about 5 degrees from Hot hide to Cool Hide.. That was checked with a PE 2 heat gun.

I use blue LED rope light in my cage and it works really well. Pretty bright but doesn't seem to disturb night time activity. She comes out and explores at night.

It also didn't raise temps in my cage any noticeable amount.

I use these lamps, they have built in dimmers: http://www.petco.com/product/116922/...th-Dimmer.aspx

I also have a thermostat that kicks them off if it gets too warm. I just adjust the rheostats till the temp is right and set the thermostat just a hair above that. Hardly ever goes off and on, but the room temp does fluctuate from time to time so they do get cut off every once in a while.

The trick is to keep them set really low so the temp stays constant. At first I had them turned up way too high so they would kick on and off all the time. Got really annoying since its in my office at home here.

So many options...Haha ! I have ordered a CHE and another thermostat.. We'll try this for awhile and see how it does.

"A proportional thermostat paired with an infrared or blacklight heat lamp is what I would use. A proportional thermostat will act like an automated dimmer and an infrared/blacklight heat lamp will produce light that doesn't bother a snake like a bright white lamp would."


This is the exact advice I got from Aaron for my son's setup. I have to say it's been PERFECT for our situation. The Herpstat II coupled with a UTH and an infrared bulb. Aaron suggested a 75W bulb as it has more power range and will seldom run at max output.

Since taking this advice I've never had any issues with temps other than room temps making the stat work a little harder which is the whole purpose anyhow.

Also note that if you have a thermostat failure the Herpstats fail in the off position so you'd end up with lower temps instead of all heat sources blasting at full power as some stats fail in the on position.

The changing light is not very noticeable the the dimming mode and if room temps are steady, you'll hardly notice.

I just for interest sake placed a red bulb in a test enclosure. It was off well at such a low setting hard to see if it is on (herpstat reading 0%) then it would flicker on dimly then off again. I guess I have designed very heat efficient enclosures as the hs is at 0% more than anything else. I find it annoying myself it would depend on how efficient the enclosure is less efficient ones are likely to need longer and higher amounts of heat.


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