question about my snakes scales please help

Large cages stress out snakes... In nature they seek out small places that feel safe (this is why we use hides) the general rule is 1 square foot of floor space for each foot of snake.

In the wild BP's live on their own from the moment they slither out of the egg. When they are forced into a cage together they have to compete for hides, basking spots, and if 1 gets sick they all will... Further there are reported cases of cannibalism. What looks like them snuggling is them actually trying to dominate each other.

Snake hides need to be snug... Like so

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...t/21819934.jpg

What are you using to heat the cage? What are you using to measure temperatures?

I suggest that you read these 2 threads:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...04#post1845904

There are issues that have been pointed out. That been said I have a mojave that has a similar lighter yellow at the ridge of the spine not quite the same but lighter spots here and there.

Is your snake eating regularly? if so the size of the tank isn't a problem stressed animals rarely eat at all. I would adjust your temps!

Are they similar to this?

http://images28.fotki.com/v1031/phot...CC_5129-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

http://images112.fotki.com/v106/phot...CC_5125-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

thanks alot! you can't rely on these local stores anymore because they will tell you all the wrong.. I will definitely stick to this website because people are so helpful. I always thought they seemed to be suffering, but was never sure. I will get on changing the cages asap. I plan on getting a snake rack. Any suggestions on a cheaper snake rack that also looks nice?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

There are issues that have been pointed out. That been said I have a mojave that has a similar lighter yellow at the ridge of the spine not quite the same but lighter spots here and there.

Is your snake eating regularly? if so the size of the tank isn't a problem stressed animals rarely eat at all. I would adjust your temps!

Are they similar to this?

http://images28.fotki.com/v1031/phot...CC_5129-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

http://images112.fotki.com/v106/phot...CC_5125-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

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yeah fairly the same.. Maybe a genetic thing? or our eyes are just seeing something that's right as being really wrong lol. idk but if you find anything out let me know!

remember that racks need the room heated to the cool side temp... 80ºF generally this is something you should think about before you plan on a rack it is a professional tool. It requires specific conditions to work well.

I'm a fan of Animal Plastics and Reptile Basics racks

AP: http://www.animalplastics.com/

RBI: http://www.reptilebasics.com/reptile-rack-systems

I suggest getting a rack that uses IRIS tubs. IRIS doesn't change the size of their tubs very often unlike other brands.

AP also makes cages for snakes (which is what I use) these don't need a heated room, and hold humidity in great.

Here is a thread I wrote on them:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!

Mine is a big boy he is 1/2 saharan and 2100 gm and 5 feet. It is just that way the scales are on mojos often anyway they have lighter edges and darker centres when they bend and flex a certain way they look quite a bit lighter.

Isn't 35% humidity asking for an RI? I thought the norm was 50-60....

wow 35% constant humidity is also really low? it has to be between 50-60% and 60-70% for shed

try get the humidity up!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mackynz

Isn't 35% humidity asking for an RI? I thought the norm was 50-60....

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Asking for an RI? Probably not. Low humidity alone isn't going to automatically give your snake an RI.


Switching to tubs will solve your humidity and temp issues. New hides will probably make your snakes feed weekly and put on some weight. The one in the pic looks a little thin.