Just bought my first snake, a baby ball python. I have photos and a question.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

I would keep a close eye on the aspen for mold.

I would strongly suggest that you get a thermostat for the heating pad.

For heating pads to be effective the substrate layer should be no thicker than 1/2"

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Ah, the aspen is about 1.5" and the other stuff is another 1/2". I'll remove lots of both.

If the aspen is pron to molding I might as well just replace it with something better, what do you recommend?

Cool, I'll look into these Herpstat's and hopefully get one soon.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Another thing I just noticed. Do you have tape inside the tank?

While I am thinking about it, do you have anything securing the lid of the tank?

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Yeah, I didn't have anything else to attach it, didn't realize it was a hazard but I'll remove it asap. What should I use to mount it? Velcro?

Also should I attach black paper to the outside of the tank?

And when I do attempt to hold him, should I do so during the day or night?

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

The stuff in the brick is ground coconut fiber. Eco-earth is one brand name. It's ok for providing humidity, but don't use it everywhere in an enclosure, as ball python bedding should be dry--they are very prone to blister disease and skin infections in a damp environment. Humidity should be 60%.

As for nippy baby ball pythons--just leave them alone until they're older, and the vast majority of them will stop on their own. You can also use a tap stick to gently push the snake's head down and encourage it to ball up instead of striking. No dominating involved. Some hatchlings are so wired that you will need a mini snake hook to get through those first few months, though, lol. (We've had just a few over the years that will throw themselves all over the place trying to bite, and would not calm at all).

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Ok, I'll remove lots of it and move the rest to a corner of the tank

So when I push his head down, do I then attempt to hold him? Or just push his head down every couple days for a while and eventually he stops striking and starts balling up?

I prefer paper based substrates (paper towels, newspaper, butchers paper, construction paper, corrugated wrap...)

but paper based substrates don't help with humidity. If humidity is an issue for you I would use just the brick stuff, or cypress mulch (reptibark is a commercially available mulch sold at pet stores)

it can just sit in the cage free, no need to attach it at all.

If you do want to attach it, I would suggest magnets or hot glue

Covering 3 sides of the tank with black paper is a great idea that will make your BP feel more secure.

I would wait a week then try to feed him. if he eats, then 48 hours after he eats you can handle him. (never handle him right after he eats you need to wait at least 48 hours so he can digest)

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Originally Posted by mues155

Not sure I like this guys angle...a snake is not a dog...you cannot "dominate" or train them to be submissive :confused:...I see this as just stressing out a hatchling that should be just left alone. A hatchling knows its vulnerable, so they can choose to be more strikey.
but this is just IMO

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Is it just the wording that bothers you? I also find this method to work well. I have a snake that is always in the strike position when I open the tub. I usually just tap him on the nose and he coils up, or I just basically force the snake to "ball up". This doesn't really work with adult snakes, but for babies it sure does save you the trouble of being bit! That being said, you shouldn't be doing this all the time just so you can handle the snake. I only do this if I need to do some cage maintenance.