Male and Female normals

Sounds like you want the heat higher on the warmest spot. 88 degrees is usually the lower recommended temp for belly heat with BPs. They can and often do prefer the cooler side, but the key point is that it is available for them at all times.

Most BPs do not drink right from their water dish, especially if the humidity is at the right point, but that doesn't mean I'm not going to give them fresh water two-three times a week. Occasionally I will refresh the water after having left it for a week and the snakes will be so excited and drink as soon as i put it down... Even if they hadn't cared for it the last time i refreshed it doesn't mean they won't need it the next day, or the next. This can also help explain why I, and some others don't house their snakes together. We can't read their minds and know what they like best but we can rely on accurate info about how they live in the wild and get their needs met.

Two snakes may do fine 364 days out of the year, but if one of those days they have an incident, or get sick, I'd rather have them separated. They don't really seem to benefit from being together unless you are having them mate. And mating has its own risks, which every keeper needs to keep in mind. I've taken care of many animals and most domestic pets do seem to like having company of some kind. Most of the reptiles I've known, snakes especially, seem to be most content and less at risk for health problems and competition, alone.

I'm posting the last few paragraphs more for anyone reading this thread, rather than the OP, since you seem to get why most people keep their BPs separate. But I don't mind repeating and backing up what others say if it gets the point across to other people who might be reading. There are definitely individuals that will be different. I know a bearded dragon who prefers his small cage with lots of social interaction over his huge, secluded cage. So it isn't impossible that some reptiles like company, but I've never met a ball that didn't seem to prefer its own small, dark, well hid cages over an open, specious cage. :D

I am still keeping snakes separated at this time. Although I am finding through much reading and talking to pet store managers that it seems to be a practice. Managers have told me that they have housed male and females together for years with no problems as long as the cage is large enough and has plenty of hides and heat etc. Others have told me never.

So they seem to be happy both ate today so I will keep them separated based on recommendations from members.

Added cypress mulch and humidity has already climbed five degrees. Changed the heat lamp for a normal bulb also. Temp needs to be higher but working on humidity first and then temp. Again thanks for all the help and information.

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Originally Posted by Deepsouth

I am still keeping snakes separated at this time. Although I am finding through much reading and talking to pet store managers that it seems to be a practice. Managers have told me that they have housed male and females together for years with no problems as long as the cage is large enough and has plenty of hides and heat etc. Others have told me never.

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I must point out that the difference between "pet store managers" and people who do this as a first love and hobby is that we don't worry more about cost of housing than the actual well being of the animal.

Most pet store managers don't know jack about reptiles. Or it could just be the ones around were I live. They always have the BPs piled in the same tanks no hides. Not bashing you just my experience. My Bps are in tubs so much easier to clean and care for. Housed separate. Good luck.

the one that I have been talking to has numerous snakes in the shop. Each is in it's own tank and there are hides in each one. She has been extremely helpful in answering questions and when she does not know points me a direction. She amongst one other pointed me to this forum. So I trust her judgment.

I'm glad you've separated. I hope you see that they seem to just do Better that way. My only concern is the heat pad you're using. Because it's giving off heat and there's moisture involved, it's a breeding ground for bacteria. Setting the animals up for bacterial infections. Heat and humidity= bacteria. The carpet Is just going to hold all of that in and will be impossible to sanitize regularly. My other concern is that the heat pad is in the tank. God forbid it ever malfunction the snakes would seriously get hurt/ killed. Condensation from humidity, dumped water bowl, even pee. Could cause a short and it to malfunction. Serious hazard in my opinion. Personally I would change that to an under tank heater attached to a thermostat. That will keep everyone much safer and it's the same concept without the bacteria play land/ fire hazard.
I'm glad things seem to be going well. I promise I'm not trying to harp on you. I'm all preventing possible problems. Much more worthwhile in the long run.

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Also signs of a stressed snake:
Roaming frantically
Striking without coiling or striking repeatedly
Not eating

Sometimes stress can cause secondary problems like Ris, Infections, other health issues.
Stress lower the immune system so the less stressed the snake is, The healthier they are.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

Homegrown, I do not have a tank. I have a custom made cage made out of of 1/2 plywood and covered on the inside with black contact paper. I cannot put the pad under the wood, it would have to be on high to get through half inch plywood a carpet and cypress chips.

I am open to suggestions other then putting it under the cage. The temperature inside the tank is now at 85 and humidity is between 53-60 percent. The high side is after misting. I turn on a red heat lamp at night to maintain temps. Cage is on sunny side of the wall so sun hits it almost all day long and maintains temps. Misting every couple of hours maintains humidity. Snake is using natural hide made up of real and silk plants creating a natural hide, comes out at night to bask under heat lamp.

Stress she does roam at night attempting to get out and moving around but, I think it is more of a natural instinct looking for prey and she is not striking or aggressive in any way. She is easily handled.

The heating pad is a commercial adult pad that has five settings on it. As stated previously it has a auto shut off and I have never put it on anything higher then the two setting.

I can remove the heating pad entirely and put a small heat lamp (red) over the hide to keep that area a bit warmer then the rest of the cage.

I understand you've got the custom cage. Perhaps some modifications could be made. Maybe take out a square and fit it with a laminate tile or regular tile, maybe a peice of thinner wood. Then you could have it under The cage. Personally I wouldnt have the pad in the cage. It would always concern me. Again it's your cage your animals, but with mine it's not worth the risk it presents. I'm also a neat freak. Working with these animals for 6 years now on a daily basis I've learned that if you don't prevent the problems they will occur eventually. Poop will be quite hard to clean out of carpet and it will be pooped on. If the bacteria is there it only takes the smallest of lesions to cause scale rot, mouth rot, and bacterial infections. Much easier to prevent them getting any of these than curing them. Just my personal experience with caring for them. I've taken in many rescues as well and generally many of these snakes have many issues and illness' that could have been prevented. Why wait till a burn happens, or a bacterial infection? Just my take on it.


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tomorrow I will be taking the heating pad out and replacing it with a small 50 watt heat lamp (red) over the hide area that she has selected to stay in instead of her hide. With a humidifier in the cage and that it is becoming nice and cozy for her. This weekend I will be removing the carpet and replacing it with more cypress, much easier to clean. Also going to do some modifications to the cage so that I will be able to open it from the front and not from the top. Will be putting a hinge on the front screen so the entire cage will be easier to maintain.

Looking forward to building another one for the male next week sometime and since I have learned I will not be using plywood but a more expensive particle board and possibly a glass bottom.

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