Re: Clutch size concerning co-doms
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Brandon Osborne
Not one bit. Everything is fed one rodent per week. If there are any leftovers, the larger females get another if they want it. Though I don't believe you can power feed growing babies. They eat to survive.
From my experience, it would be very tough to power feed a ball python. They are finicky eaters as it is. They will eat when they want to, and will go off feed when they don't. In my opinion, it is best to keep them on a regular weekly diet, and feed them extra each week if they want it. I always feed my ball pythons nothing larger than a small rat each week, since I feed them all live.
Re: Clutch size concerning co-doms
I have done almost 0 advertising online for the Pastel Het Albinos, so I do have to take responsibility for them not selling. I was just using my experiences at shows as an example.
Quote:
In my opinion, the only way to make money on pastels is to create combos with then, and visual simple recessive / pastel are going to hold their value a lot longer than codom / codom combos.
I dont know if that is exactly true, but the cool thing about Ball Pythons is that everyone has their own strategy. I agree that combos are the only way to make money in this industry unless you have something very rare (Candy, Banana, etc...)! I just think at the end of the day, co-doms and their combos will make more profit, with less work.
Re: Clutch size concerning co-doms
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Python Dreams
I dont know if that is exactly true, but the cool thing about Ball Pythons is that everyone has their own strategy.
Best words spoken or typed I MUST say!!
I don't want steer this away from the original topic but I think all breeders need to stop crying over a up and down market. Just learn to adapt like a camel and weather the drought. Better market yourself, better quality animals, better pricing, and create a working formula for yourself without living out of your means. I mean it really is getting old from big guys to the little guys.
Back on topic>>> these words are via wikipedia using the first line from Tracy & Dan Barker of VPI Libraries of books as well as the EMG himself Kevin McCurly of NERD and all of which I find interesting:
Oviparous, with anywhere from 3-11 rather large, leathery eggs being laid (4-6 being most common).[4] These are incubated by the female under the ground and hatch after 55 to 60 days. Sexual maturity is reached at 6–18 months for males, 12–36 months for females. Age is only one factor in determining sexual maturity and ability to breed – weight is the second factor. Males will breed at 500 grams or less, but in captivity are often not bred until they are 800 grams (1.7 lbs.), and females will breed in the wild at weights as low as 800 grams, though 1200 grams or more is most common--in captivity, breeders generally wait until they are no less than 1500 g (3.3 lbs.). Parental care of the eggs ends once they hatch, and the female leaves the offspring to fend for themselves
So in my eyes apply a little logic, discretion, trial & error, create a strategy and formula that works for you. I recommend following others breeding records like RDR, HeatherHerps, etc... they actually blog with fine details, ages sometimes, almost allowing you to feel like you are in on their projects. Which builids some anticapation for followers.
:rage: I'm finished ranting and raving lol.
-The Evil Minion
