Can my snake eat mice?

If you had done the research then you would know that they don't eat insects. And you would know that you can't use a UTH without a thermostat, and a DIGITAL thermometer with a probe. Those stick on thermometers are crap, they don't measure the hot spot. They measure the ambient temps, and incorrectly at that. You need to measure the belly heat, or your snake will get burned.

The thermometer came with the kit. Im only using it to measure moisture really. And wow with the scolding... First snake owner here and i thought these forums would be ideal for people to help and teach...

I wouldn't take it as a scolding man. I think alot of people on these forums are frustrated with the pet stores and their bad and sometimes dangerous information. I think your doing better than most by trying to seek out better info. Many of us (including myself) have discovered our Ball Pythons severely burned from their UTH because no one told them it had to be hooked up to a Thermostat. And as someone else said those sticky thermometers are terrible, pretty much next to usless, if you crank up the temperature on one side of the tank to get the sticky to read 90 the real temp inside is going to be WAY too hot.

The ambient temperature in the warm side of the tank should only be 80-84, now the glass on top of your UTH needs to be NO MORE than 94 degrees, this is important because this is how most BP's get burnt, they can't regulate their belly temp and will burn themselves. In order to measure the temperature on the glass above your UTH you need a digital thermometer with a probe to make contact with that spot or more ideally a inferred thermometer(one like this http://tempgun.com/ ).
It will be a challenge with the lamp (which I do not recommend, heat lamps tend to do more harm than good) is keeping the humity above 50% in his tank. If its too low your BP will have a hard time shedding. Every time your BP sheds its your job to inspect the shed to make sure the eye caps and the tip of the tail came off. Now you want all the skin to come off but those 2 are the most important things to check.

Instead of buying a timer for your lamp I would recommend either getting rid of the lamp or buying a ceramic heat emitter or a inferred bulb. With those the BP cannot see the light emitted and will get their day/night cycle from the natural light coming through the windows. If you use a timer then when it turns off the temperature will drop at night, you do not want that, BP's temperatures should remain the same day and night.

Here is good thermostat to use that is reasonable priced
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...116395&sr=8-29

If you have any questions about this or anything else please let us know.

Thanks a lot agent, I will definitely get that amazon thermostat. Also could i get some links to some infrared bulbs and ceramic heat emitter? What wattage is recommended for the bulbs?

I will say this...

I used to use a glass tank, up until recently. It is definately a challenge keeping the temps and humidity right. I switched to a tub and now have no problems with either. If I had any sense early on, I would have made the switch a long time ago. I read on here how much easier tubs were to maintain, but I had no way of housing the tub properly until recently and I am so glad I took the time to make the space for it. I actually made space for more tubs, since I have more balls incoming soon!

I know sometimes we can seem impatient and stand-offish, please don't take offense.

We see a lot here on the forums of people who got their pet as an impulse buy, and when things go wrong and we try to correct it, too many times we find people unwilling to do what is necessary, and it gets frustrating. I will admit even I wondered what you were doing owning a ball if you thought it might eat crickets, but the important thing is, you are here looking for help and are willing to do what is needed to help your snake. Not to mention, if the pet shop told you it was too small to eat mice, what on earth were they feeding it ?

I will let you know you are going to have a devil of a time maintaining that 40 gallon tank, which really is too big for a ball, even an adult. Well, with the exception of a really big female anyway. That being said, once you have your thermostat for the UTH and an accurate thermometer, if you find the ambient temps are too low without the lamp, do invest in a ceramic heat emitter. You are still going to battle with humidity, but they are preferable to heat lamps. Depending on your ambient temps when measured with an accurate thermometer, will determine the wattage of the CHE you need. If your temps are low, around 70-74, you'll want a higher wattage than if they are 78-80.

If you do a forum search in the Ball Python forums on humidity, you'll find lots of helpful posts on keeping your humidity up.

I would also follow the advice you have received and get your snake on at least adult mice. My newborn spider can take a hopper mouse easily, so trust me yours can handle an adult mouse or weanling rat.

I wish you all the best with your new snake.

Gale

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

That being said, the thermometer in his tank is always in the low 80's. I know it needs to be around 90, but i have no idea how i can boost it. I cant get another heating pad on the bottom because he needs a cooler side of the tank, plus my water dish is over there. Maybe a better light?

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Maybe I'm reading into this too much, but you said thermometer as in only one. In general, you're going to want a temperature reading from both the hot and cold side of the tank. They need the ability to regulate their temperature, and there's a big difference between a tank with 100 on one side and 75 on the other compared to a tank thats 87 all the way through. (Neither one of those is actually good since the constant 87 won't allow for regulation and the other has temperatures that are too extreme, but you get my point.) If your thermometer is in the center, you're getting the average, but the heat gradient is what's important.

new tub. i have a new post with the tub battle, trying to get Mitch the perfect home.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

Why is everyone saying i got lucky from not doing research? I researched Ball Pythons. Ive read multiple care booklets, online guides, learned from word-of-mouth etc. Mitch isnt in a shoebox in my oven, I want him to live the 30+ years that ball pythons can live. I bough a snake starter kit (40 gallon tank,

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too big

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

1 day heat lamp, 1 night heat lamp,

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Not necessary. A UTH would be fine with a smaller tank.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

1 water dish, 1 hide,

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You need to identical tight fitting hides

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

misting spray, and reptile turf)

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Reptile turf is not a great subrstrate, gets smelly and is a pain to clean

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

I also got him a reptile heat pad for under his nighttime hide that covers a good portion of the night side of the tank

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Your snake will be hiding durring the day hopefully on the hot side and out and about, if at all, at night

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

. Hes got a locking screen on top for when he is bigger, he isnt terrorizing my apartment.

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You should use those locking clips now, your snake is strong, they are escape artists.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

I bought a 10 gallon tank with 3 male mice, 3 female mice,

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One male is all you would need to breed 3 females. 3 females is going to produce way more mice than you actually need. Frozen thawed is a much better way to go if your snake will eat frozen.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

and a separate holding tank for the babies.

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You are going to need more than one for all the babies. Incidentally a 10 gallon tank would be a good starting tank for your BP.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

I also put aluminum foil on the top of the screen around the lights that cover about 70% of the screen, i left around the lights open so he can get air and ventilation. My next project is getting one of those expensive heat lamp timers, that way i can be more accurate on him getting proper day lamp/night lamp exposure.

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a 10 dollar day night timer on a florescent light would be fine.

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Originally Posted by Mikekrause2000

That being said, the thermometer in his tank is always in the low 80's. I know it needs to be around 90, but i have no idea how i can boost it. I cant get another heating pad on the bottom because he needs a cooler side of the tank, plus my water dish is over there. Maybe a better light?

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Tub or a smaller tank would help

I point all of these things out because these things along with not being sure if the snake would eat crickets makes us think you might not have done enough research. Non of that matters though. You want to do the right thing for your pet and thats the most important thing. Soak up the knowledge on this site and you will have every chance at a great snake that lives for many years.

Welcome Mike... I am here in Southern NH if you ever need help with your setup, I'm more than happy to help.

If you are in Southern NH, I am a faitful over at Dave's Dragons on Mast Rd in Goffstown. They are very helpful, and have everything you need with regards to tank setup, and feeders.