California Kingsnake Feeding help

Maybe this video link will work but im not sure, this one works for me


https://r4---sn-hp57knz6.googlevideo.com/videoplayback?expire=1599533243&ei=m9RWX72XOJGJ-AXCp6DACg&ip=174.63.180.183&id=5a7163f9459aaa84&itag=18&source=picasa&begin=0&re quiressl=yes&mh=UR&mm=32&mn=sn-hp57knz6&ms=su&mv=m&mvi=4&pl=19&sc=yes&susc=ph&app=fife&eaua=kKo-j4P3a8w&mime=video/mp4&dur=30.116&lmt=1599524199865327&mt=1599525876&sparams=expire,ei,ip,id,itag,s ource,requiressl,susc,app,eaua,mime,dur,lmt&sig=AOq0QJ8wRgIhAPB9K3XbU6-fP8j2wmxLthTiGuyLpL89pxVXOiFaZTNGAiEAzuR0TVBv_LasFzFFG-18ttbTV2-lcnLFTwlZxxR8qdA=&lsparams=mh,mm,mn,ms,mv,mvi,pl,sc&lsig=AG3C_xAwRQIhAI4RGxb2yoN 0rO2RpEg_QQ4_mWsi1xhHq1EuMuyzzsiQAiAIAu4PZCi0OgoTYpFZliwBADx1QJMedNFSRPB5yf3G6Q= =

She's a pretty little noodle! I really like Cal-kings. You get a live pinky from pet stores near you...best call ahead to see if they have any...I assumed you knew that.

Re "2 days"...she didn't actually eat anything, right? And it's been HOW long since they said she ate? It's really best if she keeps her energy up- she needs food to do that.

At some point, if an animal (or a human in hospital, for example) goes too long without food, they lose their appetite & won't want to eat...it becomes a "downward spiral"-that's why humans in hospital have an IV started...for basic nourishment. (also to administer medications) But no IV is possible for a snake...so she needs to eat. OK?

Night-time is a more natural time for most snakes to eat & it offers more privacy too, which I assume should help her to feel safe & not distracted while eating.

Cannot tell from pics if she's underweight...not close enough & very difficult to tell from photos anyway...snakes often inhale & look better off than they really are. She does appear healthy from what I can see- from the vigorous way she's climbing...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

She's a pretty little noodle! I really like Cal-kings. You get a live pinky from pet stores near you...best call ahead to see if they have any...I assumed you knew that.

Re "2 days"...she didn't actually eat anything, right? And it's been HOW long since they said she ate? It's really best if she keeps her energy up- she needs food to do that.

At some point, if an animal (or a human in hospital, for example) goes too long without food, they lose their appetite & won't want to eat...it becomes a "downward spiral"-that's why humans in hospital have an IV started...for basic nourishment. (also to administer medications) But no IV is possible for a snake...so she needs to eat. OK?

Night-time is a more natural time for most snakes to eat & it offers more privacy too, which I assume should help her to feel safe & not distracted while eating.

Cannot tell from pics if she's underweight...not close enough & very difficult to tell from photos anyway...snakes often inhale & look better off than they really are. She does appear healthy from what I can see- from the vigorous way she's climbing...

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Well I did know to get pinkys from my pet store but I wasnt sure if I should get it there in case you cant trust them but I just wanted to be sure by asking.

Ya she Really does need to eat and cant go to long without food, really hoping the thing shes looking for is a live pinky..
Makes sense to have her eat at night giving her privacy and having her feel more secure.

Ya the pictures are terrible quality but if I used my phone she would see me and get scared so its all ive got for now. She can really get up that cord fast, she probably knows that I open it from the top so shes possibly trying to escape from there.

Yes, she knows it's an escape route...silly snek. I have no idea where you are, much less the best places to buy live pinks where you are, so ask around. Not all pet stores
carry live, so don't wait- get on this A.S.A.P. You might have to wait for some to be born also. Too bad we're not neighbors...:cool: I raise mice all the time, but I sure can't mail 'em!

If your pet stores don't sell live pinkies, ask the local veterinarians (esp. for exotic pets) if they know of any sources.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Yes, she knows it's an escape route...silly snek. I have no idea where you are, much less the best places to buy live pinks where you are, so ask around. Not all pet stores
carry live, so don't wait- get on this A.S.A.P. You might have to wait for some to be born also. Too bad we're not neighbors...:cool: I raise mice all the time, but I sure can't mail 'em!

If your pet stores don't sell live pinkies, ask the local veterinarians (esp. for exotic pets) if they know of any sources.

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Vary smart snek also lol

Ive got a petland that has live but I will have to call to see when they will have pinkys, last time I was there all I saw was hoppers and adults but didnt see any pinkys, they might keep them in the back so I will call them tomorrow morning when their open to see if they have any.
It would be great to be neighbors, would make it easier lol

I ill give my local exotics veterinarians a call and see what they say about a good source of live pinkies if my pet store does not offer pinkys or if they wont have them for awhile

She's a beautiful little snake. I suspect the breeder wasn't truthful with you about her eating F/T. Baby kings can be pure hell to get started eating, so try not to be too hard on yourself. Feeding live will likely do the trick.

Remember to check Craigslist and/or the Facebook rodent breeder groups for local contacts. Also, check to see if there is a local herpetology society in your area - members may have suggestions. Check with your local zoo and/or any wildlife rehabs if you have either in the area.

If 4-5 days pass and you attempt another F/T feeding before you can locate live food, try braining the F/T mouse. I know you tried the peeling the nose trick, but braining them results in a more intense scent. Sorry for how yucky this sounds, but it isn't too bad on a F/T pinky: take a small nail or a pin and push it through the base or top of the skull, then squeeze until you can see some brain matter and cerebrospinal fluid.

I'm not a fan of putting pinkies in hot water because they 'cook' too fast, but for a really stubborn eater I do like to blast the pinky with a hair dryer for just a few seconds - sometimes that extra touch of warmth really helps, though the scent from braining may well be sufficient. I'd dim room lights, offer it on tongs, drop it right in front of your snake as soon as she indicates she's scented it, and walk away. My Gray-banded Kingsnake has been with me for going on two years now, and he has only recently started taking food from tongs; I had to leave it with him before. Best of luck! Once you get past this very frustrating barrier, you should have a little eating machine on your hands.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Caitlin

She's a beautiful little snake. I suspect the breeder wasn't truthful with you about her eating F/T. Baby kings can be pure hell to get started eating, so try not to be too hard on yourself. Feeding live will likely do the trick.

Remember to check Craigslist and/or the Facebook rodent breeder groups for local contacts. Also, check to see if there is a local herpetology society in your area - members may have suggestions. Check with your local zoo and/or any wildlife rehabs if you have either in the area.

If 4-5 days pass and you attempt another F/T feeding before you can locate live food, try braining the F/T mouse. I know you tried the peeling the nose trick, but braining them results in a more intense scent. Sorry for how yucky this sounds, but it isn't too bad on a F/T pinky: take a small nail or a pin and push it through the base or top of the skull, then squeeze until you can see some brain matter and cerebrospinal fluid.

I'm not a fan of putting pinkies in hot water because they 'cook' too fast, but for a really stubborn eater I do like to blast the pinky with a hair dryer for just a few seconds - sometimes that extra touch of warmth really helps, though the scent from braining may well be sufficient. I'd dim room lights, offer it on tongs, drop it right in front of your snake as soon as she indicates she's scented it, and walk away. My Gray-banded Kingsnake has been with me for going on two years now, and he has only recently started taking food from tongs; I had to leave it with him before. Best of luck! Once you get past this very frustrating barrier, you should have a little eating machine on your hands.

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Ya sadly I dont think they where able to get her to eat f/t, I had not know baby kings would be hard to get started on eating but now I know lol. She should hopefully eat the live

Ill check craigslist and Facebook to see if I can find any and see if theres any herpetology societys near me and check zoos and wildlife rehabs if I still cant find some.

With the f/t pinky I did peel the nose , I did plan to brain but I was not sure how, ive got plenty of pins that I can use and im likely going to ask someone to do the squeezing part for me so if I cant find a live I will brain a f/t.

When I had tried the hair dryer once for a few secs awhile ago I think I did it to long, the next day when I was taking it out it looked like a piece of beef jerky so ill just try no hair dryer and just braining for now.
A problem with the tongs is that right when I open the tank she quickly goes into a hide, I could place it in the hide entrance that shes in and hope that she smells it.
Very excited to get her eating!

Most king* snakes are NOT hard to get feeding...I've bred & raised California kings before...they fed like crazy.

*Some kinds (like gray-bandeds) ARE notoriously hard to get going though (which might be responsible for the comment given & experience that Caitlin had?). Keep in
mind that all snakes have individual characteristics anyway...and the fact is, YOUR king snake is hard to feed. This is often the result of breeding snakes for appearances
as is common in this hobby for the purpose of making money on snakes with unusually attractive markings :( rather than the way nature does things: the survival of
the fittest, so please keep that in mind. The "prettiest snake" may or may not be the best at thriving.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cypris1

On August 18th our baby California Kingsnake arrived...

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Do you have a hatch date? I cannot tell her size from photos/video...can you estimate her length? Did you buy her from a breeder or a pet store? Did they give you a feeding record of any kind? (how many times she ate for them, what exactly she ate, & the dates she fed?) If she came from a pet store, how long did they have her on the premises? (or was she bred by them?)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Most king* snakes are NOT hard to get feeding...I've bred & raised California kings before...they fed like crazy.

*Some kinds (like gray-bandeds) ARE notoriously hard to get going though (which might be responsible for the comment given & experience that Caitlin had?). Keep in
mind that all snakes have individual characteristics anyway...and the fact is, YOUR king snake is hard to feed. This is often the result of breeding snakes for appearances
as is common in this hobby for the purpose of making money on snakes with unusually attractive markings :( rather than the way nature does things: the survival of
the fittest, so please keep that in mind. The "prettiest snake" may or may not be the best at thriving.

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Ya I was expecting eating to be a breeze but as long as she eats its ok

I love gray-banded kings but I didn't get one because of them being hard to feed, sadly mine is also picky. She might have been one of those that have been breed for their looks but is not good for surviving, imperial reptiles seems like a big company ):

One reason I'm asking is because IF she is bigger/older than described, she might be happier taking a small fuzzy mouse than a pinkie. But ONLY IF her mouth is big enough. (Giving the best advice online is challenging since the snake isn't in front of me to gauge, but in your video she appears quite vigorous.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Do you have a hatch date? I cannot tell her size from photos/video...can you estimate her length? Did you buy her from a breeder or a pet store? Did they give you a feeding record of any kind? (how many times she ate for them, what exactly she ate, & the dates she fed?) If she came from a pet store, how long did they have her on the premises? (or was she bred by them?)

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On August 18th I asked them when her hatch day was and they said she was about 6 weeks old but they did not give me an exact date. I Think shes around 16-20 inchs but im likely Very wrong. I bought her from Imperial reptiles, when I asked them about her feeding records they said exactly "We feed either live or f/t pinks depends on what’s available to us that week. I would try a live pinky overnight. We feed every Friday." but they did not tell me any of her other feeding records other than that. Im not sure if their considered a pet store, but I dont know how long they had her or if she was bred by them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cypris1

On August 18th I asked them when her hatch day was and they said she was about 6 weeks old but they did not give me an exact date. I Think shes around 16-20 inchs but im likely Very wrong. I bought her from Imperial reptiles, when I asked them about her feeding records they said exactly "We feed either live or f/t pinks depends on what’s available to us that week. I would try a live pinky overnight. We feed every Friday." but they did not tell me any of her other feeding records other than that. Im not sure if their considered a pet store, but I dont know how long they had her or if she was bred by them.

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OK, that helps a lot. You want to try feeding a small fuzzy mouse, either live (most likely to succeed right now) or f/t small fuzzy, if that's all that's available. Most king snakes will take smaller than optimal mice (ie. pinkies) when they're hungry, but pinkies have less appeal (they're less developed & therefore have less scent). Keep in mind that most pet/reptile stores feed smaller than optimal to keep their young snakes from out-growing their small cages. California king snakes hatch out about 10-12" long...some are even as small as 8". It also takes a long time for them to gain much size when all they can eat is pinkie mice, because they aren't much nutrition. So if your snake is 16-20" long, she's more likely a YEAR old (most hatch in the summer), so right now, I'm not trusting your source (Imperial Reptiles) one bit...sorry. BTW, I believe your size estimate, from what I could see in your posts, but it's hard without specific & close-up items of a known size to compare to. Keep in mind that some pet store personnel may also refer to fuzzy mice as pinkies (because they're still pink & hairless)...they aren't all as "expert" as you'd hope or expect.

Being a reptile store, they jolly well had BETTER have all sizes of live mice available...so try a small fuzzy- EYES CLOSED, a little larger than a pinkie. King snakes have a smaller gape, ie. mouth opening, than say rat snakes of a similar age, so they eat pinkies for a longer time before they can up-size. IF all you can get is a f/t fuzzy, ask for some used mouse litter too, to add a fresher scent of mice right before offering (& after thawing).

If your snake refuses a LIVE fuzzy over-night (leave it in a bowl either in or near the opening of her hide) I'll be very surprised, but IF that happens, freeze* it & try it in a few days as a f/t. (*sorry, but there isn't any kinder way to "off" a pinkie or fuzzy mouse. FYI, they just go to sleep in cold, but they take "forever" to expire in CO2 or water because of their low oxygen needs.) Next time you buy a snake, find a better source- one that cares & is helpful. Not all stores, OR breeders, are the same- get references in the future.

Your snake did not grow to this size by not eating, so IF your snake still won't eat after this (trying fuzzies live & f/t), it may be also be sick. Let's hope not.

By the way, have you checked for mites on this snake? They're hard to see- that's another reason white paper towels are the best substrate for a new snake- while you assess their health; it's very hard to see mites in aspen shavings, etc.

Did this snake come with a guarantee? You might also think in terms of returning her for a full refund. Even if they say they don't do that, they probably do when you press the issue tackfully with a manager. Was she shipped to you? or did you buy her in person?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

OK, that helps a lot. You want to try feeding a small fuzzy mouse, either live (most likely to succeed right now) or f/t small fuzzy, if that's all that's available. Most king snakes will take smaller than optimal mice (ie. pinkies) when they're hungry, but pinkies have less appeal (they're less developed & therefore have less scent). Keep in mind that most pet/reptile stores feed smaller than optimal to keep their young snakes from out-growing their small cages. California king snakes hatch out about 10-12" long...some are even as small as 8". It also takes a long time for them to gain much size when all they can eat is pinkie mice, because they aren't much nutrition. So if your snake is 16-20" long, she's more likely a YEAR old (most hatch in the summer), so right now, I'm not trusting your source (Imperial Reptiles) one bit...sorry. BTW, I believe your size estimate, from what I could see in your posts, but it's hard without specific & close-up items of a known size to compare to. Keep in mind that some pet store personnel may also refer to fuzzy mice as pinkies (because they're still pink & hairless)...they aren't all as "expert" as you'd hope or expect.

Being a reptile store, they jolly well had BETTER have all sizes of live mice available...so try a small fuzzy- EYES CLOSED, a little larger than a pinkie. King snakes have a smaller gape, ie. mouth opening, than say rat snakes of a similar age, so they eat pinkies for a longer time before they can up-size. IF all you can get is a f/t fuzzy, ask for some used mouse litter too, to add a fresher scent of mice right before offering (& after thawing).

If your snake refuses a LIVE fuzzy over-night (leave it in a bowl either in or near the opening of her hide) I'll be very surprised, but IF that happens, freeze* it & try it in a few days as a f/t. (*sorry, but there isn't any kinder way to "off" a pinkie or fuzzy mouse. FYI, they just go to sleep in cold, but they take "forever" to expire in CO2 or water because of their low oxygen needs.) Next time you buy a snake, find a better source- one that cares & is helpful. Not all stores, OR breeders, are the same- get references in the future.

Your snake did not grow to this size by not eating, so IF your snake still won't eat after this (trying fuzzies live & f/t), it may be also be sick. Let's hope not.

By the way, have you checked for mites on this snake? They're hard to see- that's another reason white paper towels are the best substrate for a new snake- while you assess their health; it's very hard to see mites in aspen shavings, etc.

Did this snake come with a guarantee? You might also think in terms of returning her for a full refund. Even if they say they don't do that, they probably do when you press the issue tackfully with a manager. Was she shipped to you? or did you buy her in person?

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Oh I would have thought fuzzys would be to big, her width is a big smaller than my thumb (I think) and she is more around the length of 16 inchs, but im surprised that they would lie about the age of her since your saying shes around a year old, but I will pick up a live fuzzy with its eyes closed if they have any if not then a f/t fuzzy. Its quite mean for pet stores to feed them so little on purpose to make sure they dont grow. And I also dont trust Imperial reptiles now, when I first got her I had my full trust in them but now I dont think I will ever get a reptile from them again. When I change her water I could put a penny in there and put it on the wall and if she goes up the wall next to it you should be able to see her size.

Ok ill make sure the fuzzies eyes are closed and that I also get some of the bedding with it. If she does not take it I will freeze it, and ill make sure to buy from a better source when I get another snake in the future.

I would be very upset if I found out that she was sick, I did not check for mites as I was scared I would loose her or stress her out more than she already was from shipping, should I change her to paper towels?

She came with a live arrival guarantee and to be healthy on arrival, but they dont allow refunds or returns. She was shipped to me and I did not get a picture of her, I was shown a picture of what she Might look like.

their terms https://imperialreptiles.com/pages/terms-conditions

The page I got her from https://imperialreptiles.com/collect...kingsnake-baby

Pinkies and fuzzies, by definition the eyes are closed. Fuzzies start to show their coat colors under the skin or may have a little bit of "fuzzy" hair, but eyes are closed.

FYI the next size up is hopper, eyes open, with hair & active, eating some solid food but not always fully weaned and at this stage they DO bite back. Sounds to me like
she can easily eat a fuzzy, and the extra activity might be what she's waiting for...just be sure the bowl is a good 2" deep. Even if it's a tight fit, she should be able to eat
a fuzzy at her size. She's so not a hatchling, but some sellers under-feed to keep them small so they can say it's a "baby", save $ on feeding it & keep it from out-growing
the small container it's in. :( There's no shortage of lousy sources when it comes to reptiles...big isn't necessarily better.

I'd rather see her eat first (before checking for mites) since you've waited this long...but do look on the white paper towels & in her bowl for tiny moving specks (red, brown or black). Pity you had her shipped to you...it's much easier to get a refund when you're IN a physical store on a busy Saturday with other customers listening in & deciding whether or not they "feel lucky" enough to make a purchase. ;)

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Pinkies and fuzzies, by definition the eyes are closed. Fuzzies start to show their coat colors under the skin or may have a little bit of "fuzzy" hair, but eyes are closed.

FYI the next size up is hopper, eyes open, with hair & active, eating some solid food but not always fully weaned and at this stage they DO bite back. Sounds to me like
she can easily eat a fuzzy, and the extra activity might be what she's waiting for...just be sure the bowl is a good 2" deep. Even if it's a tight fit, she should be able to eat
a fuzzy at her size. She's so not a hatchling, but some sellers under-feed to keep them small so they can say it's a "baby", save $ on feeding it & keep it from out-growing
the small container it's in. :( There's no shortage of lousy sources when it comes to reptiles...big isn't necessarily better.

I'd rather see her eat first (before checking for mites) since you've waited this long...but do look on the white paper towels & in her bowl for tiny moving specks (red, brown or black). Pity you had her shipped to you...it's much easier to get a refund when you're IN a physical store on a busy Saturday with other customers listening in & deciding whether or not they "feel lucky" enough to make a purchase. ;)

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Oh ok, no matter what its closed eyes.

I really want to get her on f/t befor she gets large enough for hoppers, I would hate it if I saw it attack her, I would prob kill the mouse myself. Ok maybe she does not want a snack (pinkys) and wants the nice meal of a fuzzy, ill make sure the bowl is 2" deep. Well its good that I now know that she is not a hatchling but stupid the fact that they would do that.

Ok ill wait for her to eat befor checking for mites, I would have bought the same type of snake from someone that lives near me but when I had looked at imperial reptiles reviews I saw only 1 bad review at that time but now that im looking for the reviews more theres alot of people saying that they were either sold a sick animal or the age was not what they said. And ya if it was in person it would be alot easier to get a refund

I'm just hoping for the sake of your snake that you can make this all work...I assume this is your first snake? It shouldn't be this hard for you with a 1st snake...it just
shouldn't, & it's a tough lesson to learn. :( I have (in the past) bred a few kinds of snakes & sold the offspring, but they were always very well-started first, with a
written feeding record, care sheet, & date of hatch or birth; I was never "commercially-minded" about it...I cared "too much" about each snake being a success & prefer
just keeping snakes for fun (or working with rescues). You're pretty much stuck with this snake so I REALLY hope she didn't come with mites, but I wouldn't put much
past this source at this point.

Yes, mice or rats with eyes closed...totally safe to feed. Either one only bites back once their eyes open. (I've always raised my own rodents & used to sell them also.)

California king snakes normally accept f/t easily...it concerns me that yours doesn't want to eat despite not being handled & having proper hides & temps. You're correct
that you want her eating f/t before she needs to size up. You made a good choice for the kind of snake, just picked the wrong place & way to buy. Good luck! :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I'm just hoping for the sake of your snake that you can make this all work...I assume this is your first snake? It shouldn't be this hard for you with a 1st snake...it just
shouldn't, & it's a tough lesson to learn. :( I have (in the past) bred a few kinds of snakes & sold the offspring, but they were always very well-started first, with a
written feeding record, care sheet, & date of hatch or birth; I was never "commercially-minded" about it...I cared "too much" about each snake being a success & prefer
just keeping snakes for fun (or working with rescues). You're pretty much stuck with this snake so I REALLY hope she didn't come with mites, but I wouldn't put much
past this source at this point.

Yes, mice or rats with eyes closed...totally safe to feed. Either one only bites back once their eyes open. (I've always raised my own rodents & used to sell them also.)

California king snakes normally accept f/t easily...it concerns me that yours doesn't want to eat despite not being handled & having proper hides & temps. You're correct
that you want her eating f/t before she needs to size up. You made a good choice for the kind of snake, just picked the wrong place & way to buy. Good luck! :gj:

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Ya I really hope she will eat. Ya she is my first snake...

Its to bad that I didnt get one from people who care about the animal like you ):

Also im going to be waiting a few days to try feeding her the live, trying to soon will stress her out and make her definitely not eat. oh and when I was saying her width it is more like my pinky not my thumb, so quite a big difference there.

Ya since shes my first snake I of course wanted an easy one, turns out that theres always a chance an "easy" one will be hard. If I get another snake anytime soon ill be sure to buy it in person.

Also, the first few weeks I had her all she did during the day was search for an escape route, yesterday I noticed that she was starting to calm down, like she is not searching around as much and instead in a hide, does this mean shes getting more used to her environment since shes not searching for an escape as much? Ive heard thats true for Ball Pythons but im not sure about kings

SHE ATEEEEEEE

I put the live pinky in an hour ago and watched the camera like a hawk and I got to watch her eat the pinky!! ;D

Im so happy and I 100% know that she ate ovi because I watched lol :D

I have a small recording of her eating but the file got cut in half cause I did record her striking but thats ok

After I left the room she immediately poked her head out from her water dish lol

https://r3---sn-hp57yn7y.googlevideo...Zn7&ir=1&rr=12

https://r3---sn-q4fl6nss.googlevideo...RRn64KeY8lo%3D




Then she came back for seconds! But there was no second pinky lol

https://r3---sn-q4fl6n7e.googlevideo...lPJdh_TiGWU%3D

I just wanted to say, thank you. Thank you so very much for all the help that you gave me! I would not have been able to do this without you! :D

Even more great news! She was going back to the tupperware I had put the live pinky in so I figured she was hungry again, I only have f/t atm so I put one in a ziploc bag in room temp water, the bag was broke making the pinky in the actual water so I thought she would not take it since the scent was likely washed away but I didnt want it to go to waste so I silently put it in there just in case. About 20 mins later she found it and ate it! Guess she just needed to eat once to get her feeding started! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cypris1

Even more great news! She was going back to the tupperware I had put the live pinky in so I figured she was hungry again, I only have f/t atm so I put one in a ziploc bag in room temp water, the bag was broke making the pinky in the actual water so I thought she would not take it since the scent was likely washed away but I didnt want it to go to waste so I silently put it in there just in case. About 20 mins later she found it and ate it! Guess she just needed to eat once to get her feeding started! :D

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Pinkies thaw so fast...that's what I'd have done, & FYI, I always thaw right IN the water. Yes, it washes off some scent, but many snakes don't care, & if they do, that's when I "pinch-damage" the nose.

But from the size you said she is...even 2 pinkies is NOT enough food. You need fuzzies at least & probably small hoppers now or very soon. I agree, she truly just needed to take food once...because that little bit of food made all the difference in her tummy, & now her tummy says "More!" :D She will likely eat several pinkies at each feeding now, until you get larger prey.

I'm very happy she finally ate for you...I knew you could get this done. :gj:

:dance::pinkele::carrot: Happy Dance!

Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
Just my worthless $.02

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BringdanoizeKO

Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
Just my worthless $.02

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This is completely false...first, setting frozen prey out to thaw slowly in air increases the spoilage...and even if YOU can't smell it your snakes can. Likewise, snakes need prey that is raw, not "cooked" in hot water. To keep frozen prey as fresh as possible, it's best to thaw directly in cool water...that's the fastest way to transfer temperatures...air is actually a good "insulator". Once the prey is thawed (feel the middle, it should be completely soft thru-out), only then put it in very warm (not hot) water for a few minutes at most, but ONLY if you're feeding a snake that cares about it having "lifelike warmth" as BPs do. This thread is about a California king snake, & they do NOT care if the prey is heated at all, but if you need to release a little more scent, just pinch-damage the nose with your feeding tongs right before offering.

Most importantly, feed your snake where it lives...DO NOT put a snake in another container to feed it, because the handling & unfamiliar place can make a shy feeder refuse to eat (which is what this thread has been dealing with!); in addition, a hungry snake that you pick up to move is likely to bite you, if not before feeding, then afterwards, when they're still in "feed mode"...which can last for hours or even a few days. (Will this nonsense idea ever go away...? :( )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BringdanoizeKO

Let the mouse “thaw” first. Like you would do with meat. Except on the counter in kitchen for like 1-2 hours max depending on how “frozen’ it is.(it’s a feel kinda thing)
THEN drop it into heated large bowl of water. Make the water hot! You can’t hurt by going hotter. As long as mouse is in the bag it comes with/in. Just a idiot disclaimer here...don’t HEAT the actual mouse in boiling water or Microwave OR GET IT WET. Not saying you would, but it’s happened before with some. LOL
Bottom line feeding a dead mouse to a snake requires getting it to “think” that mouse is alive. Use the tongs and toy with the snake a little. Your snake should also be fed in a different enclosure compared to it’s natural habitat. Most new snakes will have tendency’s to not eat right away for few weeks TOPS while adjusting to their home. The additional feeding chamber allows quite a few things in the “Domestication” of your snake. It can somewhat help stop false strikes on you or others reaching into the cage, plus it knows a routine if you keep it consistent.
Just my worthless $.02

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Wrong almost top to bottom.

OP please ignore the reply above.

Ya when I read that post I was quite confused-

But anyways..

She is an amazing feeder now! It takes her only about 10 mins to find the pinky and there was once she had found the pinky and she had started tossing the pinky around like a rag doll :rofl:
And what just happened today was that I didn't see her for an entire week and I was a bit worried at first but then I figured she was going to shed soon. Last night I put another pinky inside and usually she takes it within 10-20 mins but there was no sign of her so I turned the lights off and went to bed, in the morning I checked back and luckily the pinky was gone! Then I noticed a weird grey thing next to the food bowl and then I realized she had shed! It looks like its in one piece but I cant tell unless I take it out, but I cant take it out since she ate last night and I dont want to spook her to much. Really happy that she shed!!

Kinda hard to see in the pic but its next to the hide and is a light grey color

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...2020-09-26.png

Yippee! :carrot::dance::pinkele::banana: You've finally got her on track, awesome! :gj: This is my kind of update. :D :snake:

https://www.snakesforpets.com/feed-a...ate-container/

I neglected to say I also use cold water to thaw the mouse just do it on the counter.
As far as the debate on different feeding areas? To each their own! The article I posted above touches on the pros & cons. I have pythons. They are handled quite a bit otherwise what’s the point of owning the snake? The more you handle/bond and earn the trust of the animal the better experience it is for both you & the snake!
I’ve done both methods over many years and find that the separated enclosure lowers your chance of a strike on the hand(fingers) from possibly startling the snake is far less! Why?? Because every time you open the snakes main enclosure it will assume you’re feeding it if you use it’s main habitat. I find it definitely lowers your chance of a strike. My snakes all start small captive bred and only know what they know from a strict routine. Stress or regurgitation has Never been a issue & never swallowing any bedding. As far as a hungry snake or recently fed snake? Of course the risk is higher And they shouldn’t be handled too much during this time! I just find it lowers the risk factors when you take the extra steps and stick to a strict routine.
I’ve taken strikes/bites in Distant past and every single one was from reaching into the enclosure the snake was always FED In.
My personal routine consists of opening enclosure and using snake hook to first gently get snakes attention (also check it’s mood) then allow it to wrap around the shaft. I then raise it up into my hands then we’re off on our adventure.
To each their own.