Enclosure for Boa

Ok I took the temps with the gun almost touching the substrate. I wrote on the pic below the temps that I got. It seems to be 75 on the log but in the front against the glass it is like 73ish And of course he's in the water bowl.. his new favorite place after I made him discover water lol.


https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psgjhsslew.jpg

Will I have to keep a CHE when I get a cage like the Animal Plastics one? or would just a UTH be enough?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok I took the temps with the gun almost touching the substrate. I wrote on the pic below the temps that I got. It seems to be 75 on the log but in the front against the glass it is like 73ish And of course he's in the water bowl.. his new favorite place after I made him discover water lol.


https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psgjhsslew.jpg

Will I have to keep a CHE when I get a cage like the Animal Plastics one? or would just a UTH be enough?

---

Better, but still not there. 88 is fine on the hot side. You might want to consider moving his water dish closer to the middle or the cooler side. Make sure he can get his entire body on the hot spot - 88F. If it's only that little section on the top left, it's probably not enough. How big is the UTH? Is the water bowl over it?

77F in the middle is minimum.

75 and 73 are too low.

Increase power to CHE via dimmer and/or move closer to tank.

If you get an AP tank, etc. (I have Boaphile tanks), and your room is under 75-78F, then a UTH will not be enough. You will also need a radiant heat panel (RHP) and a UTH for belly heat and probably a UTH for the cool side, depending on the size of the tank.

My 6X2X1' enclosure has an RHP and Flexwatt heat tape (like a UTH) on the left side (hot side) on one thermostat for both. It's 87-91 on the left side, averaging about 88, about 81F ambient, and the cool side has a smaller flexwatt and a separate thermostat for that side. It maintains 78-80F.

The better enclosed the tank, the better heat stays in and humidity stays in. Getting a good tank with good thermostats and proper heating elements built in is ideal. You will spend less on electricity and temps will be much easier to regulate.

I went with Boaphile Plastics because a) Jeff Ronne put up with about 100 calls from me asking questions about all my animals needs (I had never had an all inclusive setup before - I had different tanks with different makeshift heating elements, etc.) and I love the tanks and b) he breeds boas, so he knows well what they will need.

AP may be the same way, I have no idea, but you want someone who will answer questions and help you design a proper setup that is probably overkill. My RHP and UTH on the hot side barely run to maintain proper temps in the summer, and a little harder in the winter, but I would rather have them barely run, then one run all the time and not be enough.

Finally, you can be a few inches from the substrate, but by 2-3 FT, or through a screen for sure, the reading will likely be off.

Temps look tolerable but like mentioned, i would try and bump the CHE up some.

Also the snake might be sitting in the water bowl because you have no hides on the warm side. The water bowl is the only 'safe' spot in the snakes mind on the warm side of the cage, yet the water is cool.

I would throw the half log out as imo those things suck and just use a couple small plastic hides or even cardboard boxes as snakes seem to have a thing for cardboard lol. Take a cereal box and cut it in half sideways from left to right so you have 2 squares pretty much. Then put one on the warm side and one on the cool side. They will work until the snake pisses on them. And put the water bowl in the middle. That should give enough to fit the 2 box halves in. But i would try and find a couple small plastic one door hides for the snake.

As above , swap the open ended log thing for two identical hides , one in warm side , one on cool side . I'd get a much smaller water dish and put it in a corner somewhere . Royals / Balls rarely soak . Yours was simply trying to get warm I suspect ..


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

Temps look tolerable but like mentioned, i would try and bump the CHE up some.

Also the snake might be sitting in the water bowl because you have no hides on the warm side. The water bowl is the only 'safe' spot in the snakes mind on the warm side of the cage, yet the water is cool.

I would throw the half log out as imo those things suck and just use a couple small plastic hides or even cardboard boxes as snakes seem to have a thing for cardboard lol. Take a cereal box and cut it in half sideways from left to right so you have 2 squares pretty much. Then put one on the warm side and one on the cool side. They will work until the snake pisses on them. And put the water bowl in the middle. That should give enough to fit the 2 box halves in. But i would try and find a couple small plastic one door hides for the snake.

---

A real good point here about hides. One on each side.

Also, if the UTH is under the water bowl it might not be allowing all the heat to get to the surface/Boa. I think I made this point earlier, but wanted to repeat.

Hope the temps are coming up.

Ok here's an updated pic. Does this look good? I will order some plastic hides soon. How big should the water bowl be? I turned up the dimmer a little so we will see what its at in like an hour :D

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psw1mshizt.jpg

I'll definitely be getting a AP or Boaphile cage as soon as my bank account recovers lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok here's an updated pic. Does this look good? I will order some plastic hides soon. How big should the water bowl be? I turned up the dimmer a little so we will see what its at in like an hour :D

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psw1mshizt.jpg

---

Better arrangement, but long-term - you will want better hides, as you said. More sealed. Ask if you don't know where to get them.

Water bowl is okay size. Could be a little smaller if you want to give him more room to stretch. However, that could alter humidity too.

Let us know about temps.

Nice work and keep working at it. You'll get there.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

I'll definitely be getting a AP or Boaphile cage as soon as my bank account recovers lol

---

LOL. I hear you. Save up and do it right! Don't do it half way or in steps, especially if money is tight.

My girl moved into her forever home and is doing great, even at 700G and 3+ FT. She has hides everywhere! So she feels secure.

So after I moved the water bowl to the middle the humidity went up to 99% and the glass is all foggy lmao, what now? Aww I can't wait to get him a better enclosure!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

So after I moved the water bowl to the middle the humidity went up to 99% and the glass is all foggy lmao, what now? Aww I can't wait to get him a better enclosure!

---

I imagine the water dish is right under the CHE?

I would tell you to move the CHE, but if you are just getting temps dialed in, probably not the best idea.

Also, not much room to move stuff around with a 20G.

You can a) put in a smaller water dish and move away from the CHE, B) uncover part of the top of the tank (assuming you covered with foil as you said were going to), or A and B.

Edited* I don't have a smaller dish at the moment but I took off the foil and put the hand towel on covering the warm side and it looks like its about 77% but I think it's climbing back up.

Ok so I think the temps are finally where they should be. I'll keep an eye on the humidity. I have the dimmer on full output right now and it seems to be working.

Looks good. I wouldnt worry about downsizing the water bowl. Just give the cage more airflow by doing what you did and uncover the top a little. You can uncover a little bit of the warm side and the cool side. That will give you an air current per say. The cool air from the cool side will settle into the cage, move across the floor and the warm side will raise the air up and out. Play around with the CHE placement until you get a nice temp gradient of 86-88 on the hot side and 77-79 on the cool side. In a 20 gallon tank, that might be a bit hard but it can be done.

My error .. presumed it was a Royal .. .. Boas will soak ....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zincubus

My error .. presumed it was a Royal .. .. Boas will soak ....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

Tell that to my boas. They never soak unless i physically put them into their tubs with water. And i only do that when one of them decides it was a good idea to body paint their cage with a turd or urate overnight before i can get it out. Caesar though does like to sit in his tub and get paper towel rub downs...such a spoiled snake....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok so I decided to go to Petsmart and see if they had the CHE and they did. Online it said it wasn't available in the store. So I got the 60watt CHE and the fixture. I also have a stand from when I had my Bearded Dragon years ago. This is how I set it up. Should I put the bulb over the middle or cool end? Should I put it closer to the the screen? I just turned it on so I'm waiting to see what temp it brings it to. I know the humidity is low. As soon as I take off the towel on drop it drops. I'm going to try using foil.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psgukxasw8.jpg

---

Thats a 20gal tank so that 60 watt CHE isnt going to cook the tank at all so dont worry. Unless your house/room is over 72° let it rip on the cool side.. I put mine on the screen of my quarantine tank without the Dimmer because if you need to you just raise the CHE higher to decrease the heat. As long as you cover a good part of that tank with Tin Foil and a hand towel you should get 76-80 on the cool side. (Keep the towel a inch away from the CHE)
Looks like your getting things dialed in [emoji1360]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

So after I moved the water bowl to the middle the humidity went up to 99% and the glass is all foggy lmao, what now? Aww I can't wait to get him a better enclosure!

---

Less water equals less humidity. Also im joining the Convo late ao excuse me if im wrong but if your CHE is above the water the Humidity also goes up higher...
Is that a 20 gal Long or a 20 gal fish tank?
Looks small for some reason.

It's a 20 gal Long, it might be the angle that I took the pic lol. Ok I'll continue to work with it and let you guys know. Thank you so much for all your help! I do have an off-topic question. I sometimes hold my snake on my bed and my Great Dane sleeps next to me do you think my snake would attempt to bite him?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

It's a 20 gal Long, it might be the angle that I took the pic lol. Ok I'll continue to work with it and let you guys know. Thank you so much for all your help! I do have an off-topic question. I sometimes hold my snake on my bed and my Great Dane sleeps next to me do you think my snake would attempt to bite him?

---

I doubt your BCI would go after a Great Dane any more than he would go after you!

My dogs (I have 5), are curious about the snakes, and vice versa, but I have never had an incident. The littlest guy is a 10 pound morkie, and he adores the snakes. He guards them and sits with them while I, or my fiancé, hold them.

I wouldn't leave a huge snake alone with anything they could eat - like a 10 pound dog - but a BCI at 15-20 pounds (large female) wouldn't eat something half it's weight. Besides, you have a great dane and a male BCI. NO WAY a food bite should ever happen.

Additionally, my snakes now know the dogs smell, and my smell, etc. Even though they might sense heat, they don't think food. Rats = food. Not dog. Not human. Once holding the snakes, they do not generally think of food either. I wouldn't ask my dog(s) to stick their head(s) into the snake tank when they expect food, the same I wouldn't do that.

I'll see if I can find a picture of my dogs near the snakes, but either way, I would not worry about your great dane.

I would be worried about your great dane hurting your BCI. The great dane might get jealous or defensive, or even want to play. That could be trouble.

In summary. BCI threat to great dane? Probably not. Great dane a threat to BCI - definitely could be!

Use common sense when they are together. My dogs are totally chill and just want to nuzzle or be near the snakes, mostly because they are with me. My snakes do not feel threatened and do not think of food when near them. So it's all good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

It's a 20 gal Long, it might be the angle that I took the pic lol. Ok I'll continue to work with it and let you guys know. Thank you so much for all your help! I do have an off-topic question. I sometimes hold my snake on my bed and my Great Dane sleeps next to me do you think my snake would attempt to bite him?

---

If it got scared, possibly. They have 2 choices when scared, fight or flight and if flight isnt an option...well...but out of hunger, no. I personally would just put the dog out of the room until the snake is settled in and relaxed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

If it got scared, possibly. They have 2 choices when scared, fight or flight and if flight isnt an option...well...but out of hunger, no. I personally would just put the dog out of the room until the snake is settled in and relaxed.

---

I agree with Sauzo, especially in letting the little guy settle into his digs before overwhelming his senses.

Long-term, once you know your BCI and your dog, probably not a big issue.

Dogs and snakes, Cats and snakes etc...None of them mix. Its not a good idea period. If your dog is sleeping on the Floor and your holding him thats one thing.. but id never assume everything was ok and nothing would happen. If a snake latches onto a dogs nose that snake is going to get hurt in the end one way or another. Even if its a small dog it couls get stepped, shaken, flung... My rule is to keep all my pets separate and I never need to worry. My Burm was in another room with the door closed because he would nail the glass if a dog came up to the enclosure.

Thanks for all the input. My dogs are pretty calm. I was just wondering because the snake was sitting in my lap and my dog was sitting next to me and the snake would kind of get closer and just kind of stare so I kept pulling him back incase he was trying to decide whether or not he could eat my dog lol.

My thermostat is coming today. What should I set the temps to? So one probe goes under the tank and above the heating pad? Where should I put the other one?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Thanks for all the input. My dogs are pretty calm. I was just wondering because the snake was sitting in my lap and my dog was sitting next to me and the snake would kind of get closer and just kind of stare so I kept pulling him back incase he was trying to decide whether or not he could eat my dog lol.

My thermostat is coming today. What should I set the temps to? So one probe goes under the tank and above the heating pad? Where should I put the other one?

---

Your doing the UTH Hot Spot & the CHE Cool Side right? It gets hard to remember who has what after days of 50 people with different setups hahahah.
Hot side yes between the UTH and the Glass.. The the CHE probe hanging from the screen in the corner 1/2 way down. Put electric tape over the probe wire where it bends to go under screen frame and plastic tank lip so it doesnt cut the coating on the wire.. Id also tape the wire to the outside if the tank so it doesn't drop down in further...
UTH - 88/90
CHE- 78-80.
It will take several hours to regulate so dont pump it up thinking its not hot enough...

I have a UTH and the CHE is kinda halfway from the cool end and from the middle of the cage, if that makes sense. The way that the tank locks is this dinky little clip. Hopefully I can fit the wire under there and still be able to lock it. Ugh I can't wait til I get a better cage. The humidity seems to be doing ok. I'll let you guys how it goes when I get home tonight.

You put one of the t-stat probes outside the tank between the UTH and the outside tank floor. The other probe you can hang it inside on the cool side and set the t-stat to 78F. Keep it just above the height of the snake so the snake cant lay on it, poop or piss on it or bury it.

Do I need to use the dimmer anymore? Am I plugging the CHE into the thermostat too? Because it was 20 degrees outside today the cool side is at 71. Do you think I need a bigger wattage CHE?

I set the UTH temp to 90 and the cool side to 78. I feel like the UTH side is getting too cold tho?

I can't lock the top with the wire in there. Should I cut a hole in the screen?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Do I need to use the dimmer anymore? Am I plugging the CHE into the thermostat too? Because it was 20 degrees outside today the cool side is at 71. Do you think I need a bigger wattage CHE?

---

Thats what i was saying a while ago in this thread I think about watts and the size tank and covering the screened lid. With that size tank (20 long) the CHE doesn't need to be on a thermostat unless your house gets over 72. Youll get 76-80 degrees out of it on full power with the lid covered with tin foil & a hand towel... But I keep mine on the cool side not in the middle. Keep your temps up where the hides are at this point. Its hard enough with a Glass Tanks so at least you'll know the gradient is good in both the hides this way. Thats where its most important.
You'll want a PVC enclosure in a few months I'm sure then its easy. Get on the list at AP as it took 13 weeks to get mine.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

I can't lock the top with the wire in there. Should I cut a hole in the screen?

---

You dont need the tstat for that size CHE in that 20Gal. It wont get over 80 unless you crank your house over 72.

Your tank set up ain't too bad. I have yet to read all 9 pages so maybe someone mentioned it already but I would cover up the sides of your 20 gallon for sure.

I'm still playing around with it. My understanding is that it doesn't really matter what temp the thermostat says on the hot side? As long as it's getting to 88-90 inside the enclosure? When I put the setting to 90 it was not nearly as hot as it should be in the enclosure, so right now its set to 105, I will check what it is at when I get home. I ended up cutting a small hole in the screen to get the probe in there and it seems to be working for the cool side. I'm still keeping an eye on the temps on the cool side because last night it was 64 in my room because it was so cold outside. I'll work on something to get the sides covered.

I have been looking at the T8 from Animal Plastics and I emailed them with some questions. Would this be big enough to last him for his entire life? So for the T8 I would use a heat panel on the side and a UTH?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

I'm still playing around with it. My understanding is that it doesn't really matter what temp the thermostat says on the hot side? As long as it's getting to 88-90 inside the enclosure? When I put the setting to 90 it was not nearly as hot as it should be in the enclosure, so right now its set to 105, I will check what it is at when I get home. I ended up cutting a small hole in the screen to get the probe in there and it seems to be working for the cool side. I'm still keeping an eye on the temps on the cool side because last night it was 64 in my room because it was so cold outside. I'll work on something to get the sides covered.

I have been looking at the T8 from Animal Plastics and I emailed them with some questions. Would this be big enough to last him for his entire life? So for the T8 I would use a heat panel on the side and a UTH?

---

Id never go less than a T10. You loose Hight inside, the outside measurement is 12" . So figure interior height to be around 10 1/2 inches on a T8 and Glass slider opening only 8" ( hard to get anything in & out cleaning) versus a T10 interior is 14" and Glass slider entrance 10". You would be surprised what a difference it is from 8" to 10" and it's worth every bit of $50 more. As far as the heating yes you can go with a RHP and a UTH incase the Temp is 65-68 during winter.. Otherwise the RHP is fine alone for 68+ homes/Rooms.

As far as the Hot side temps now I know its probably been mentioned 50 times but make sure to check the Glass above the UTH not the substrate. All my heating elementa match what the Tstat & thermistate says after 24 hrs of things absorbing the heat. Usually about 1° off.
Example.. My Tstat says 91... The hot side probe thermometer says 90.7... If I then check with a Lazer it says 89.3..88.7 and 90.1 in three different places. This is all after leaving the doors closed etc for 12hrs as everytime i clean it/open it a several times during winter it takes hrs to regulate again.

Thanks for pointing that out I will most likely get the T10. How exactly is the RHP used in a cage like that? Or does it go on the outside? How does it attach? Where would I put the probe for the RHP? I have been using the temp gun pointed at the substrate and about 1/4 inch away from it. I will go home and measure it on the glass. It's so much better now that I know my snake won't cook when I'm not home lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Thanks for pointing that out I will most likely get the T10. How exactly is the RHP used in a cage like that? Or does it go on the outside? How does it attach? Where would I put the probe for the RHP? I have been using the temp gun pointed at the substrate and about 1/4 inch away from it. I will go home and measure it on the glass. It's so much better now that I know my snake won't cook when I'm not home lol.

---

Im glad your understanding.. Sometimes writing makes it hard to describe everything hahahaha. A UTH always goes outside no matter what type of enclosure. With that said your Probe always goes between the UTH and enclosure. The PVC enclosures (at least AP as thats all I have) has a place to run your wire/probe and Heat Tape. I guess id call it a little indent so its more flush if that makes sense. I always use Metal Tape (foil tape) for Heating work to attach UTH/Heat Tape etc... I myself only use a UTH on my quarantine tanks... As far as my Displays i only use a large RHP.
Some of these things are preferences. I have always gone up One size on a RHP from what recommended because I run 24/7 Central air and my home heat goes low at night because I cant sleep if I'm warm. The larger RHP has helped me with that.
Another thing that has helped me is putting the RHP about 8 inches over from the interior wall of my Hot Side.. I was mounting them 1" away from Hot Side wall and my cool side temps were too cool when the house dropped at night to 60... Once your home goes below 68 the Hot side is ok but the cool side (2ft away in a 4ft enclosure) drops to about 73.5/75. Thats not terrible but remember thats even when im running a larger than recommended RHP. This is why some people run a UTH and actually use the RHP to get a warner ambient for the cool side etc.. In that case you can also run the RHP on the Cool Side on a lower temp (78/80) as I do in 1 of my enclosures because my bottom enclosure RHP provides the Basking on the Hotside floor above for my girl who spends all her time in the Cool hide anyway.
This is why its important to decide whats best for your situation. Only you know your home temps etc.. Also of you use a Snake Room, you can use just a UTH and use a electric Oil heater to heat the whole room to 78° 24/7. This a great idea if you have a Xtra room dedicated to Reptiles only.

I came home and the ambient temp was 72-74 should I go get a 150 watt CHE since I have a thermostat?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

I'm still playing around with it. My understanding is that it doesn't really matter what temp the thermostat says on the hot side? As long as it's getting to 88-90 inside the enclosure? When I put the setting to 90 it was not nearly as hot as it should be in the enclosure, so right now its set to 105, I will check what it is at when I get home. I ended up cutting a small hole in the screen to get the probe in there and it seems to be working for the cool side. I'm still keeping an eye on the temps on the cool side because last night it was 64 in my room because it was so cold outside. I'll work on something to get the sides covered.

I have been looking at the T8 from Animal Plastics and I emailed them with some questions. Would this be big enough to last him for his entire life? So for the T8 I would use a heat panel on the side and a UTH?

---

Wait, you have the hot set to 105F?? You will cook that snake. I keep all my boas with a hot spot of 86-88F and even then, they dont spend much time on the hot spot.

All the temps matter in each zone. You want 77-79F cool side and 86-88F hot side. The ambient can be anywhere from 77-80F. You need to give the boa a place it can get warm and a place it can get cool but not too cool and not too warm.

Ok I turned the hot side is now 88 on the thermostat and cool side is set to 76. Do I need to get a 150 watt CHE because I care home and the cold side was 72

I thought I was measuring the substrate not the glass temp

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Id never go less than a T10. You loose Hight inside, the outside measurement is 12" . So figure interior height to be around 10 1/2 inches on a T8 and Glass slider opening only 8" ( hard to get anything in & out cleaning) versus a T10 interior is 14" and Glass slider entrance 10". You would be surprised what a difference it is from 8" to 10" and it's worth every bit of $50 more. As far as the heating yes you can go with a RHP and a UTH incase the Temp is 65-68 during winter.. Otherwise the RHP is fine alone for 68+ homes/Rooms.

As far as the Hot side temps now I know its probably been mentioned 50 times but make sure to check the Glass above the UTH not the substrate. All my heating elementa match what the Tstat & thermistate says after 24 hrs of things absorbing the heat. Usually about 1° off.
Example.. My Tstat says 91... The hot side probe thermometer says 90.7... If I then check with a Lazer it says 89.3..88.7 and 90.1 in three different places. This is all after leaving the doors closed etc for 12hrs as everytime i clean it/open it a several times during winter it takes hrs to regulate again.

---

Thank you for all the info! I will definitely be getting a T10. I’ll will check where the UTH is and see against the thermostat. I got a 150watt CHE and it’s keep the temp at 78 now with no problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Thank you for all the info! I will definitely be getting a T10. I’ll will check where the UTH is and see against the thermostat. I got a 150watt CHE and it’s keep the temp at 78 now with no problem.

---

Thats a real High Wattage for a 20gal.. Your going to have trouble with Humidity for sure and if you cover the screen that wattage is going to bang out Hot Hide temps. You dont want to dry the snake out. I bet if you check the substrate in the enclosure directly under that CHE it will be a easy 85 after a few hours because my 60 watt was above the cool hide and was a min of 78. If its to hot just raise your CHE higher above the screen or use tour Dimmer until you find the right temp. The enclosure is going to cool a little at night when the house cools but thats natural anyway.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

I thought I was measuring the substrate not the glass temp

---

Nope, you measure the glass which is going to be the hottest part if you are using a UTH or heat tape. You measure the top of the hide if you are using a RHP or overhead heating.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Thats a real High Wattage for a 20gal.. Your going to have trouble with Humidity for sure and if you cover the screen that wattage is going to bang out Hot Hide temps. You dont want to dry the snake out. I bet if you check the substrate in the enclosure directly under that CHE it will be a easy 85 after a few hours because my 60 watt was above the cool hide and was a min of 78. If its to hot just raise your CHE higher above the screen or use tour Dimmer until you find the right temp. The enclosure is going to cool a little at night when the house cools but thats natural anyway.

---

You are doing something wrong lol. There is no way you can need a 150 watt CHE to just maintain an ambient temp of 78F. Ambient temp is the air temp, not an object temp. I personally have never checked the cool side temps in my cages. I go off 2 temps, the hot spot which like i said is either from the top of the warm hide if using a CHE or RHP and the glass temp or floor temp under the substrate if using a UTH or heat tape. The second temp i pay attention to is the overall ambient temp which is the air in the whole cage. I keep that temp at 77-79F depending on the room temp. This is because a snake needs to cool down and warm up. Being stuck in either only will lead to health issues.

And this was meant for the OP, not Calm

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

You are doing something wrong lol. There is no way you can need a 150 watt CHE to just maintain an ambient temp of 78F. Ambient temp is the air temp, not an object temp. I personally have never checked the cool side temps in my cages. I go off 2 temps, the hot spot which like i said is either from the top of the warm hide if using a CHE or RHP and the glass temp or floor temp under the substrate if using a UTH or heat tape. The second temp i pay attention to is the overall ambient temp which is the air in the whole cage. I keep that temp at 77-79F depending on the room temp. This is because a snake needs to cool down and warm up. Being stuck in either only will lead to health issues.

And this was meant for the OP, not Calm

---

Yup I get my ambient with my Acurite thermometer Unit mounted on the cool side and then its probe is run out the back and over into the Hot Side.
That Thread on how to set up a PVC is good as Gold. There is one for a Glass Tank too if I remember correctly.

Does anyone have pics lol. Ugh I’m slightly retarted. The 60 watt works but it’s still like 3-4 degrees too cold. Should I switch it out for 100 watt? They were out of stock at that store but I’ll just go to a different one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Yup I get my ambient with my Acurite thermometer Unit mounted on the cool side and then its probe is run out the back and over into the Hot Side.
That Thread on how to set up a PVC is good as Gold. There is one for a Glass Tank too if I remember correctly.

---

Lol i mostly learned from trial and error. I always set up my t-stat probe on the cool side when i was running RHPs. Easier to just raise or drop the cool side a few degrees to get the hot side where you like it. At least for me. But then again, once i got all my snakes in the basement which is half underground and more constant temps and warmer , i just quit RHPs all together and went to flexwatt for everyone. So much easier that way for me plus i dont have a bunch of wires inside the cage.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by svtvenom

Does anyone have pics lol. Ugh I’m slightly retarted. The 60 watt works but it’s still like 3-4 degrees too cold. Should I switch it out for 100 watt? They were out of stock at that store but I’ll just go to a different one.

---

What are your temps exactly and how are you taking them at each exactly. And pics of what?

The UTH or heat tape would go on the outside floor of the cage. Use foil tape that you get at any hardware store. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...7792/100030120

Tape 3 sides of it down, then slide the t-stat probe between the heat tape and the floor of the cage on the outside. Then tape down the 4th side of the heat tape.

Then set the temp on the t-stat to 88F. Wait an 30 mins to an hour and then check the temp all over the heat tape with a temp gun from the inside of the floor of the cage with no substrate on it. It will vary as heat tape isnt 100% uniform. You want it to average around 86-88F. A spot of 90F or a spot of 84F isnt going to hurt, you just want it mostly around 86-88F.

Once you get that set, you are done there. Cover the floor with no more than 1/2 inch of substrate.


Then for the CHE, if you are using a t-stat for that too, put the CHE on the same side as the heat tape. Then adjust the height to where it is just above the screen top. Hang the t-stat probe inside the cage on the cool side just above the height of the snake so it cant sit on it, poop on it or otherwise affect it. Then set it to 77F. Once it's 77F on the cool side, temp gun the top of the substrate on the hot side and see what it reads. Also, the CHE should not be on 100% for long, if it is, you have too small of a CHE and it is working too hard.

And for the cage itself, cover 3/4 of it with tinfoil. Cover the sides with rigid foam insulation like this stuff https://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1...0817/202532855. You basically want to insulate the glass since your room gets so cold so the CHE isnt working 24/7 overtime.

Alternatively, you can also place the CHE in the middle of the cage and do the above as well.