Roe progression thread!

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

that is not a fuzzy mouse, looks like a small adult?

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No, its a fuzzy. Roes just pretty small, but I think its mostly the angle. I baught a 50pk of mouse FUZZYS from feeder source at a reptile show a couple months ago. :)


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Originally Posted by c0r3yr0s3

I thought the same but look at the pill bottle size. I don't think you could fit a small adult in that small of a bottle

Edit: maybe a hopper?

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Huh, maybe. I know for sure I bought fuzzys, but they couldve been packaged wrong. Ill weigh one when I get home

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Fuzzies are slightly larger than pinks and are just getitng hair growth. The ones you posted pics of have full length hair and long legs, look like larger hoppers or small adults. Where are you getting your mice from?

How noticeable is the lump? Roe is a tiny one, that's for sure but adorable none the less

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

Fuzzies are slightly larger than pinks and are just getitng hair growth. The ones you posted pics of have full length hair and long legs, look like larger hoppers or small adults. Where are you getting your mice from?

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That makes sence. I got a 50pk of Fuzzys at feeder source at the repticon in Tulsa. Not too long ago.

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Originally Posted by c0r3yr0s3

How noticeable is the lump? Roe is a tiny one, that's for sure but adorable none the less

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I dont know, ill have to look at her tonight. Ill post a pic or two of her. (I wont handle her tho) thank you :D

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This thread should be moved to Red Tail Boas forum. And Red Tail Boas forum should be renamed to Boa Constrictors forum in order to be more factual and scientific
This thread should be moved to Red Tail boas forum. And Red Tail Boas forum should be renamed to Boa Constrictors forum in order to be more factual and scientific

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Originally Posted by Dutti

This thread should be moved to Red Tail Boas forum. And Red Tail Boas forum should be renamed to Boa Constrictors forum in order to be more factual and scientific
This thread should be moved to Red Tail boas forum. And Red Tail Boas forum should be renamed to Boa Constrictors forum in order to be more factual and scientific

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Maybe you should make a suggestion in the Feedback and Suggestions forum (https://ball-pythons.net/forums/foru...mp-Suggestions ), rather than cluttering someone's thread about their snake :3.

GpBp, Roe is gorgeous! I hope you figure out the feeding issue soon! Either way, I'm sure she'll be fine. Boas are super duper slow metabolism-wise.

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Originally Posted by Starscream

Maybe you should make a suggestion in the Feedback and Suggestions forum (https://ball-pythons.net/forums/foru...mp-Suggestions ), rather than cluttering someone's thread about their snake :3.

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Thank you so much! She is beautiful, I agree :love: And I hope I get this worked out too!

Ok. Tempratues are:

Hot side 74°F-75°F
Gradient 73°F-74°F
Cool side 72°F-73°F
I know its a little chilly, I'm bumping hot side to low 80s rn.

Humidity is 63%

I couldn't really see any noticeable bumps, but here are some pics.
She weighed 75g before, and now weighs 84g (w/o bowl movement of course). I also included a quick Snapchat of her on the bed (I missed having her out!), and a cute pic of her wrapping around the hygrometer. Thank you!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bdf5daf3df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...09076f1192.jpghttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a90be8f...1867614379.mp4https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31c6094c16.jpg

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OMG! Just cheaked heat mat temps, and it was 120°F!!! I checked two days ago at 90°F!! The probe must've come loose, t-stat is set to 86°F. Fixing it right away!

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Originally Posted by GpBp

OMG! Just cheaked heat mat temps, and it was 120°F!!! I checked two days ago at 90°F!! The probe must've come loose, t-stat is set to 86°F. Fixing it right away!

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GpBp, if she avoided the heat mat, she is probably ok. Does she seem to have discoloration on her? Like a burn?

Regardless, you have to check temps and probes daily. Not trying to be mean, but Roe is relying on you.

How did you secure the probe? What kind of tank again?

Secondly, ambient is too low as is the cool side.

I get confused between all the threads and all the new BCI keepers. I thought we had gone through this. If so, excuse me here, if not, this is important.

BCI's want:

86-90F hot side/hot spot

79-82F ambient temps

79-81F cool spot.

Or there about.

Take a deep breath. Remember, panicking leads to rash and often poor decisions.

Remember the basics first, always.

1. Temps
2. Humidity
3. Cleanliness

If these basic husbandry items are met, you should have a happy and healthy snake for a long time.

This really explains, more than anything, why Roe likely hasn't eaten again. Also, she might not be getting enough heat (and she's avoiding the really hot area) to process food and pass waste.

Please update when possible.

Hope everything is ok.

Probe is taped into place and cooling right now. Cant believe it! I checked her for burns, and thankfully there was nothing. Wow! It ended up stopping at 105.2 I feel so bad!http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a90c139...1423400338.mp4

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Probe is taped into place and cooling right now. Cant believe it! I checked her for burns, and thankfully there was nothing. Wow! It ended up stopping at 105.2 I feel so bad!http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a90c139...1423400338.mp4

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Okay. Deep breath.

Very good no burns! Check again in a day or less to make sure she doesn't show signs of burns later, but you are probably ok.

You probably dodged a bullet.

How is the probe placed? What tape, etc. Specifically what will keep it from coming lose again?

Again, deep breath. New snake keepers have a tendency to overwhelm themselves and inevitably forget something important.

Develop a routine of checking:

1. Temps/Probe placement
2. Humidity
3. Keep the tank clean
4. Fresh water

I'll probably think of something else later.

A routine ensures that you don't forget something and it's better to have a quick 1 minute daily check, then a hurt animal, or worse.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...09076f1192.jpghttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a90be8f...1867614379.mp4

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One other thing, and again, sorry for seeming preachy. Always support a snake fully. If she is wiggling around (as it looks in the picture - blurriness), she is not happy. She does not feel supported.

You want them to feel secure and also not get hurt. A supported animal is a safe and comfortable animal.

The probe is placed with scotch tape, and the sticky UTH over it so its secure. I probably bumped it the other day while I was cleaning the gecko tanks (right beside her tank). I'm so glad shes okay! Ive calmed down and I'm fixing everything, and temps now are:

83°F Hot Side
78°F Cool Side
79°F Gradient

UTH now is 100°F and only getting better. Thank you! Ill make sure to follow that every morning, not just with Roe but with my other two. I always make sure they have water but I'm not so great with checking the temps and looking at the probe. Thank you! I hope I didn't stress Roe out too much with the surprise belly check!

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Originally Posted by dakski

One other thing, and again, sorry for seeming preachy. Always support a snake fully. If she is wiggling around (as it looks in the picture - blurriness), she is not happy. She does not feel supported.

You want them to feel secure and also not get hurt. A supported animal is a safe and comfortable animal.

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Thank you. I do always try to support them, I just tried to get a good picture of her stomach in that pic. She was wiggling and I should've had my hand by her! But I promise I took the picture quickly (thats the blurriness lol) and put her back.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

The probe is placed with scotch tape, and the sticky UTH over it so its secure. I probably bumped it the other day while I was cleaning the gecko tanks (right beside her tank). I'm so glad shes okay! Ive calmed down and I'm fixing everything, and temps now are:

83°F Hot Side
78°F Cool Side
79°F Gradient

UTH now is 100°F and only getting better. Thank you! Ill make sure to follow that every morning, not just with Roe but with my other two. I always make sure they have water but I'm not so great with checking the temps and looking at the probe. Thank you! I hope I didn't stress Roe out too much with the surprise belly check!

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Scotch tape is terrible. It won't hold it, or at least not for long.

Am I correct that it is sandwiched between the UTH and the tank and resting on something to keep it from coming out also?

Either way, use duct/electrical tape, etc, IMO.

Roe was probably more stressed out by the super hot environment than you taking her out.

Until you get in the habit, I would check morning and night.

At this point, I check my thermostats 2X a day, and make sure the probes are where they are supposed to be as well.

I usually only check temps 1X a day because my setup is very reliable as long as the probes are in place. I also check if there is any dramatic change in room temp, humidity, etc.

My probes are secured and I have yet to have one come out. However, I still check.

In my old setup, it wasn't as good, and I moved the gecko tank a little and pulled the probe out. I checked 1/2 hour later and it had come out and was too hot. Also make a habit of checking the probes and temps anytime you move a setup. Too risky not too.

The point is twofold. 1. Better safe than sorry. 2. We all make mistakes. It happens. How we respond and how we limit the damage is what makes the difference.

I didn't want you to think I was picking on you and thought I was immune to mistakes. I am still learning, we all should be. I make mistakes too. However knowing that, I check the tanks often!

Don't get discouraged. When you get in a routine, you will feel better, the animals will be better for it, and you will sleep at night. Better for all.

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Originally Posted by dakski

Scotch tape is terrible. It won't hold it, or at least not for long.

Am I correct that it is sandwiched between the UTH and the tank and resting on something to keep it from coming out also?

Either way, use duct/electrical tape, etc, IMO.

Roe was probably more stressed out by the super hot environment than you taking her out.

Until you get in the habit, I would check morning and night.

At this point, I check my thermostats 2X a day, and make sure the probes are where they are supposed to be as well.

I usually only check temps 1X a day because my setup is very reliable as long as the probes are in place. I also check if there is any dramatic change in room temp, humidity, etc.

My probes are secured and I have yet to have one come out. However, I still check.

In my old setup, it wasn't as good, and I moved the gecko tank a little and pulled the probe out. I checked 1/2 hour later and it had come out and was too hot. Also make a habit of checking the probes and temps anytime you move a setup. Too risky not too.

The point is twofold. 1. Better safe than sorry. 2. We all make mistakes. It happens. How we respond and how we limit the damage is what makes the difference.

I didn't want you to think I was picking on you and thought I was immune to mistakes. I am still learning, we all should be. I make mistakes too. However knowing that, I check the tanks often!

Don't get discouraged. When you get in a routine, you will feel better, the animals will be better for it, and you will sleep at night. Better for all.

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Awesome. Yes, the probe is sandwiched between tank and UTH. I will switch to duct tape, could I move Roe into a tub or something for about 5 mins while I hold the tank up to secure it? I'm going to make myself a checklist. I have this for my guinea pigs to
1: make sure theres pellet food
2: make sure water is full
3: make sure the cage is clean
4: make sure both are healthy
5: give them their dailey lettuce, fruits, etc.

I will defiantly do this for all of my snakes (and geckos), and probably twice a day. I'm making a list right now :) thank you. So, can I move Roe while I switch to duct tape real quick?

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Nevermind, I slid it where the edge of the tank hung off the side of the table so I could fix it. I used thick black duct tape :) I'm doimg this to my bps tank now

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Nevermind, I slid it where the edge of the tank hung off the side of the table so I could fix it. I used thick black duct tape :) I'm doimg this to my bps tank now

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I was gonna suggest having someone help you but you got it figured out. Roe has been through enough today and just ate on top of it all

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Nevermind, I slid it where the edge of the tank hung off the side of the table so I could fix it. I used thick black duct tape :) I'm doimg this to my bps tank now

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Okay. That's fine.

However, I would take Roe out if it's still well over 90F on the hot pad.

Frankly, I would think she is better off not in the tank until you get things dialed in and safe.

She refused food yesterday, right?

I think the stress of having all the wonky temps is worse than just putting her in a container for an hour.

I would make sure temps are proper, or at least safe, before putting her back in her tank.

That's me.

If your ambient temps and cool side temps are off by even close to what you said earlier, even if the hot mat is okay, you are going to have to do some adjusting.

After today. Leave her alone until next feeding unless it's an emergency. If you have to take her out to clean, fresh water, etc. Do so very briefly and put her in something else, don't handle her for long.

Anyone else want to chime in?

I just wouldn't risk her getting hurt again while you adjust temps. What if the probe placement is different and now the heat pad reads 85F, once it cools. You will have to adjust upwards, and I wouldn't risk that until you know your system and tank really well.

Even when I make thermostat adjustments, minor ones even, I check the temps regularly (like every 20 minutes) until everything has stopped moving and is dialed in.

Her heat mat right now is at 88°F. Should cool to about 85. Temps 90°F on hot and 83°F on cool. And no! She ended up eating yesterday. But she didn't strike, she grabbed it sometime last night. I'm cheaking every ten minates and her heat mad keeps cooling amd her temps are getting better. I think shes doing ok in her tank, she is behind her cool hide right now. If anything goes weird in hee tank, I can move her to a tub temporarily.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Her heat mat right now is at 88°F. Should cool to about 85. Temps 90°F on hot and 83°F on cool. And no! She ended up eating yesterday. But she didn't strike, she grabbed it sometime last night. I'm cheaking every ten minates and her heat mad keeps cooling amd her temps are getting better

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Ahhh, okay, I missed that she ate after all. Awesome.

Yeah, she needs the heat to digest, I get it.

83F is a little high for the cool side, so see if you can gradually and slowly adjust that to 79-81F.

90F on hot side is good, but I would get the heat mat to stay around 88-89F or so.

What is ambient? Or does it range from 90-83F because it's a smaller and glass tank?

Just be careful adjusting and as said earlier, leave her alone for a while to digest.

I think once temps and humidity are dialed in, and you defrost the prey as discussed, without cooking it, you will have an awesome feeder!

Good job getting everything safe again. I think you will be fine if you follow the checklist and make sure to breathe before changing anything! Deep breaths and calm thoughts = good decisions!

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Originally Posted by dakski

Anyone else want to chime in?

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No need...you got this

Quick update:
I've checked at least 4 times (every time I go quietly to check being sure not to bother her) and the temps have pretty much stayed the same now! Here is everything

Hot side: 90°F
Ambient: 83-84°F
Cool side: 81°F

UTH is at 88°F.

There was a small 2° change in the hot side but I got that fixed right up. Its going good!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Quick update:
I've checked at least 4 times (every time I go quietly to check being sure not to bother her) and the temps have pretty much stayed the same now! Here is everything

Hot side: 90°F
Ambient: 83-84°F
Cool side: 81°F

UTH is at 88°F.

There was a small 2° change in the hot side but I got that fixed right up. Its going good!

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Awesome! Keep up the good work.

! Thats her hot hide !https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...02f4554f28.jpg

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Originally Posted by GpBp

I couldn't really see any noticeable bumps, but here are some pics.

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He meant a lump after feeding, they usually swell up 24-48hrs after feeding.

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

He meant a lump after feeding, they usually swell up 24-48hrs after feeding.

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Oh ok! Shes not out now, but I dont see any swelling or noticeable lumps. Ill be on the look out. Id get her out and check again but I dont want to stress her.

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but... she didn't feed the last time you offered so there are no swelling to check for. no reason to get her out again. you don't need to check for swelling or lumps anyways, i can see the food item was too big based on the photos which is probably why she didn't eat.

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

but... she didn't feed the last time you offered so there are no swelling to check for. no reason to get her out again. you don't need to check for swelling or lumps anyways, i can see the food item was too big based on the photos which is probably why she didn't eat.

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I could be wrong but I think I read that roe did eat. That's why I asked about a lump.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Oh ok! Shes not out now, but I dont see any swelling or noticeable lumps. Ill be on the look out. Id get her out and check again but I dont want to stress her.

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Sounds good. Let her be!

Again, great job on the temps!

Keep us up to date!

Just a thought, but you might want to consider getting a really good enclosure for her (and big) for when she's a bigger, and eventually a really big girl.

Female BCI's can get 6-8FT and big around! It takes a while though, so you have time.

However, I switched to enclosed tanks (with just clear front openings) years ago and have never looked back. Better for temps, humidity, stacking, etc.

I currently have a Boaphile Plastics setup with 5 6X2' tanks, double/redundant thermostats, multiple heat sources, etc.

Many people here use Animal Plastics as well (AP). I found Jeff at Boaphile incredibly helpful and patient with helping me get the right setups and setting them up when I got them. I have never had custom built tanks before, having bought PVC tanks and installed my own RHP, UTH, and thermostats, etc.

What a difference!

Phenomenal temp control and humidity control and big enough to give a nice temp gradient to even an adult BCI female.

I really sleep well with the redundant thermostats too! I want my animals to be safe! Always!

Anyway, many caging forums here, but as Roe grows, and you other snakes grow, it might make a lot of sense to consider.

Big, well built tanks, are easier to maintain and less complex setups in many ways. My 6X2' tank weighs about as much as a 30G glass tank, give or take. They are also stackable. I had tanks all over my finished basement, now 5 tanks take up one wall. One thermostat runs several hot sides for tanks that have the same requirements and the same heating elements. One thermostat runs several cool sides as well. Much simpler and you have the manufacturer of the tank there to help and stand behind their products.

Glass tanks and multiple different tanks means multiple different eco systems and extra work. Also, much harder to maintain temps and humidity, as you are learning!

I am very meticulous about temps and humidity, etc. My new setup is much easier to adjust, when needed (not often), and I am very comfortable knowing all my reptiles are safe and happy.

I think you are the same way.

These large enclosures are not cheap though, so depending on where you are in life, and what your budget is, you might want to start saving soon! There is also lead time with all the manufacturers because the tanks are made to order (size, heat elements, etc.). Expect 6-13 weeks depending on who you order from. So, it has to be a planned decision.

Sorry I ran on here, but I am so much happier and less anxious now that I have a good setup for all my reptiles.

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

but... she didn't feed the last time you offered so there are no swelling to check for. no reason to get her out again. you don't need to check for swelling or lumps anyways, i can see the food item was too big based on the photos which is probably why she didn't eat.

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AbsoluteApril, I missed it too. Apparently Roe ate overnight, but not when offered. Shy baby! Plus, temps were likely off too, which probably did not help. We have also discussed in the thread, proper techniques for defrosting and offering F/T prey.

ahh okay i did miss that, thanks!

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Originally Posted by AbsoluteApril

ahh okay i did miss that, thanks!

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No problem! Many topics covered in this thread, and it's getting a little long. As I said, I missed it too!

I appreciate your posts and knowledge, by the way. Thank you!

The lump check was just for curiosity of the prey size. The picture of the actual rat looked huge but the pill bottle was very small. I looked through all the recent pictures and didn't see a lump so it was definitely just the angle of the prey pic making it look to big. If the rat was as big as it looked originally, it woulda been a huge lump that you would have easily noticed. Let him rest and digest. I'm glad you got the temps under control.

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Originally Posted by dakski

No problem! Many topics covered in this thread, and it's getting a little long. As I said, I missed it too!

I appreciate your posts and knowledge, by the way. Thank you!

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This thread turned into a rollercoaster for a little while

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Originally Posted by c0r3yr0s3

This thread turned into a rollercoaster for a little while

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Yes, but all is well that ends well!

Thank you guys! I agree, was defiantly a rollercoaster! But her temps are great, and she's great! I should've made it clearer that she ate overnight lol. I will certainly get a much larger tank for her over time. BCI's are slow growers, so I do have time to save. I want to get something really nice for her! She will be a big girl, so a nice big viv for her would be wonderful. She is in only a 10gal now, but that is because her tank was meant to be for a hognose! So DEFINATLY upgrading soon. My bp May needs a bigger tank here soon so ill probably give Mays 20gal to Roe (for the time being). But yes, I am actually pretty ecxited to do some tank shopping for her! Her tempratures have been staying where they are.


But... if you know me I'm always gonna have another question! Roe has two lights on her tank, one normal light and one with a dimmer. I had the dimmer on the cool side on low to keep it warm and the normal light on the warm side (does that make sense?). So I usually just turned off normal light at night so dimmer would keep tank warm and be low light so she can rest. But now, so temps are ok, I have dimmer on hot side and normal on cool side. Dimmer is all the way up. What do I turn off tonight? I want it to stay warm, but I want her to be able to sleep!

But thank you so much guys. I was kinda freaking out tbh but everyone helped me get though it! I love this forum so much!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Thank you guys! I agree, was defiantly a rollercoaster! But her temps are great, and she's great! I should've made it clearer that she ate overnight lol. I will certainly get a much larger tank for her over time. BCI's are slow growers, so I do have time to save. I want to get something really nice for her! She will be a big girl, so a nice big viv for her would be wonderful. She is in only a 10gal now, but that is because her tank was meant to be for a hognose! So DEFINATLY upgrading soon. My bp May needs a bigger tank here soon so ill probably give Mays 20gal to Roe (for the time being). But yes, I am actually pretty ecxited to do some tank shopping for her! Her tempratures have been staying where they are.


But... if you know me I'm always gonna have another question! Roe has two lights on her tank, one normal light and one with a dimmer. I had the dimmer on the cool side on low to keep it warm and the normal light on the warm side (does that make sense?). So I usually just turned off normal light at night so dimmer would keep tank warm and be low light so she can rest. But now, so temps are ok, I have dimmer on hot side and normal on cool side. Dimmer is all the way up. What do I turn off tonight? I want it to stay warm, but I want her to be able to sleep!

But thank you so much guys. I was kinda freaking out tbh but everyone helped me get though it! I love this forum so much!

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Replace the light with either a red bulb of the same wattage or a ceramic heat emitter of the same wattage.

Red bulbs are like moonlight to snakes and CHE give off no light.

Ideally, heat and light would be separate. Difficult in a small tank.

I have flourescent bulbs in my tanks for light and RHP and two separate UT heat sources. One for warm side with RHP and one for cool side.

I have nothing for night lights but the heaters run all the time.

I turn on a low light in the room for feeding so I can see what I am doing. The snakes do fine with very little light at night.

Not sure what to do tonight though.

Perfect! Thanks!

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Sheesh, you still havent gotten that boa to eat regular!!?? Boas are like foolproof. They would pretty much feed themselves lol. Thats why i say its best to just start out with a PVC cage. It so much easier to get stuff right. Tanks work for quarantine pretty good but unless you have had experience making them 'snake friendly', they can be kind of tricky especially in winter when the weather is against you too.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Sheesh, you still havent gotten that boa to eat regular!!?? Boas are like foolproof. They would pretty much feed themselves lol. Thats why i say its best to just start out with a PVC cage. It so much easier to get stuff right. Tanks work for quarantine pretty good but unless you have had experience making them 'snake friendly', they can be kind of tricky especially in winter when the weather is against you too.

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Yeah, I think she'll eat next week since ill thaw correctly and her husbandry will be good. May and Geno are both in tanks, so I have some experience. But, yes. I am defiantly saving up for some kind of PVC! Not just for Roe, but for everyone :)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Yeah, I think she'll eat next week since ill thaw correctly and her husbandry will be good. May and Geno are both in tanks, so I have some experience. But, yes. I am defiantly saving up for some kind of PVC! Not just for Roe, but for everyone :)

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Trick to thawing out stuff the right way......get a bucket of hot/warm, not boiling, water. Throw everything in zip lock bags. Throw it all in the bucket and let it sit for an hour. Change out the water to fresh warm/hot water and pull out the small stuff that has thawed. Continue doing this every hour until the largest stuff is thawed. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Trick to thawing out stuff the right way......get a bucket of hot/warm, not boiling, water. Throw everything in zip lock bags. Throw it all in the bucket and let it sit for an hour. Change out the water to fresh warm/hot water and pull out the small stuff that has thawed. Continue doing this every hour until the largest stuff is thawed. :)

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I've used to do this when I didn't have as many snakes and it works real well ..

I started off years ago , thawing in warm water but then I realised that simply washes away the rodent smell which seems important to many Royals/Ball pythons ( less important to my Kings lol ).

Now with 20 snakes I let them thaw out slowly on a radiator which works well if you don't 'forget' about them :)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

I've used to do this when I didn't have as many snakes and it works real well ..

I started off years ago , thawing in warm water but then I realised that simply washes away the rodent smell which seems important to many Royals/Ball pythons ( less important to my Kings lol ).

Now with 20 snakes I let them thaw out slowly on a radiator which works well if you don't 'forget' about them :)


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I havent had a problem yet with the lack of smell. And i even rinse them off under warm water and fluff them with paper towels. But then again, it seems all my snakes are garbage cans and eat anything anytime except Dottie. She goes through phases where she eats anything and then turns her nose up to anything for 2-3 months. Then out of the blue, decides to eat again. I seriously bet they would try and coil and ice cube if i rubbed a mouse or rat on it haha.

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

I've used to do this when I didn't have as many snakes and it works real well ..

I started off years ago , thawing in warm water but then I realised that simply washes away the rodent smell which seems important to many Royals/Ball pythons ( less important to my Kings lol ).

Now with 20 snakes I let them thaw out slowly on a radiator which works well if you don't 'forget' about them :)


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Yeah theyre all so very different ...

I sometimes put a rat over a vent and blow through .... and watch their reactions :)

The Royals will flick their tongues and some Kings will lunge into mid air ...

Snakes are fascinating creatures for sure !

Man a lot has happened while I've been away! (Been working the past few days.)


GpBp, do you happen to have a weight on your mice? That could give us a better idea of their size. Even if they were hopper mice, I can't imagine them being that big for a 75 gram boa...my 80 gram boas take hoppers no problem with little to no bulge left over. Every source will size their feeders slightly differently (and some wildly different). Hoppers should be 7-12 grams and fuzzies 3-6 grams.




So sorry to hear about the panic with the heat tape! I had something like that happen last year when one of my Hydrofarms clunked out. It had the red warning light on, and said something about the temp being too hot. The temp gun read 125F, the Hydrofarm hadn't even shut off the heating pad, just continued to heat it like normal. Needless to say, I threw that out. Luckily the snake I had in there was completey unharmed.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Ok. Tempratues are:

Hot side 74°F-75°F
Gradient 73°F-74°F
Cool side 72°F-73°F
I know its a little chilly, I'm bumping hot side to low 80s rn.

Humidity is 63%


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She needs much warmer temps. I keep my boas' ambients 80-85F with a hot spot/side of 88-90F. I don't offer a cool spot unless there's enough room for them to fully coil up in a cool area, ambient area, and warm area. You don't want it to jump from 75F all of a sudden to 90F, or they may never use one or the other side due to the sudden skyrocket in temps (to them). Hot spot would be the area directly above a UTH/heat tape, and hot area is only important if you're using an ambient heater as heat pads won't raise ambient temperatures efficiently.

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Originally Posted by GpBp

Thank you guys! I agree, was defiantly a rollercoaster! But her temps are great, and she's great! I should've made it clearer that she ate overnight lol. I will certainly get a much larger tank for her over time. BCI's are slow growers, so I do have time to save. I want to get something really nice for her! She will be a big girl, so a nice big viv for her would be wonderful. She is in only a 10gal now, but that is because her tank was meant to be for a hognose! So DEFINATLY upgrading soon. My bp May needs a bigger tank here soon so ill probably give Mays 20gal to Roe (for the time being). But yes, I am actually pretty ecxited to do some tank shopping for her! Her tempratures have been staying where they are.


But... if you know me I'm always gonna have another question! Roe has two lights on her tank, one normal light and one with a dimmer. I had the dimmer on the cool side on low to keep it warm and the normal light on the warm side (does that make sense?). So I usually just turned off normal light at night so dimmer would keep tank warm and be low light so she can rest. But now, so temps are ok, I have dimmer on hot side and normal on cool side. Dimmer is all the way up. What do I turn off tonight? I want it to stay warm, but I want her to be able to sleep!

But thank you so much guys. I was kinda freaking out tbh but everyone helped me get though it! I love this forum so much!

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Turn off any and all lights at night. Any light we can see, they can see, too. Even red and blue/black lights are too bright and they're fully capable of seeing those wavelengths, and it can disrupt their day/night cycle.

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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa

Man a lot has happened while I've been away! (Been working the past few days.)


GpBp, do you happen to have a weight on your mice? That could give us a better idea of their size. Even if they were hopper mice, I can't imagine them being that big for a 75 gram boa...my 80 gram boas take hoppers no problem with little to no bulge left over. Every source will size their feeders slightly differently (and some wildly different). Hoppers should be 7-12 grams and fuzzies 3-6 grams.




So sorry to hear about the panic with the heat tape! I had something like that happen last year when one of my Hydrofarms clunked out. It had the red warning light on, and said something about the temp being too hot. The temp gun read 125F, the Hydrofarm hadn't even shut off the heating pad, just continued to heat it like normal. Needless to say, I threw that out. Luckily the snake I had in there was completey unharmed.





She needs much warmer temps. I keep my boas' ambients 80-85F with a hot spot/side of 88-90F. I don't offer a cool spot unless there's enough room for them to fully coil up in a cool area, ambient area, and warm area. You don't want it to jump from 75F all of a sudden to 90F, or they may never use one or the other side due to the sudden skyrocket in temps (to them). Hot spot would be the area directly above a UTH/heat tape, and hot area is only important if you're using an ambient heater as heat pads won't raise ambient temperatures efficiently.



Turn off any and all lights at night. Any light we can see, they can see, too. Even red and blue/black lights are too bright and they're fully capable of seeing those wavelengths, and it can disrupt their day/night cycle.

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Ok, a lot here! So, the mice are 10-11 grams! Woahhh they are hoppers! I ordered fuzzys I swear! Sorry for arguing, I should've weighed them! Should I keep feeding her them? If your 80g boas will take them, should Roe be able to? Again, there was no big bulge on her.



I was so worried! I've checked temps all twice a day now, and thankfully its stayed 87°F-88°F on the UTH. Everything is duct taped now, hopefully no more loose probes! I'm glad your snakes was okay :)



As for temps, I got that all down. Idek why I thought those low 70's temps were OK! But yes, her temps now are:
Hot side: 90°F
Ambient: about 84°F
Cool side: 81°F

She's all good now, sleeping in her hot hide as we speak :)




So, here's what I do for my balls:
Geno: All light go out
May: White light goes out, low blue light comes on

It only drops their temps 3°F-4°F.

But for Roe, I think I have to keep something on! For example, last night when I put in the blue bulb, there was a burning smell. I immediately unplugged it! I let it sit, but I was so tired. I got back at like 3:00 am, and was exhausted! So I just turned her dimmer down so there was heat, but low. Only to find this morning, her temp had dropped into the low 70's! I need the blue night. (Her temps are back to normal this morning)




I hope this answers some questions!