Grumpy, dry skin, and won't eat

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Originally Posted by KMG

I went back through the entire thread.

I don't believe you caused "mild scale rot" in the short amount of time in the conditions you have described. If anything I would have thought you were setting the snake up for an RI. What makes you believe it is scale rot? I think it sounds more like a burn but without being there or at least seeing some pics we are all guessing here.

You need to help us help the snake. The snake is not causing this, you are. If it were me I would be living on the BP.net and checking every post my thread got and giving a play by play of what is happening in the attempt of creating the correct husbandry for my snake.

While I may be with the others agreeing its time to see a vet the issue of husbandry is going to still be an issue at home and needs to be addressed. Without fixing it the snake has no chance of making it. If the vet is not an option because of money it may be time to suck it up and pass the snake on to a more experienced keeper. It sucks but you really need to do what is best for the snake and you and your sis have not been achieving that. Im not trying to be rude or make you feel bad. Im just trying to do what is best for the snake.

I am here to help and will continue to do so. We need you to step up and do what it takes to make things right. You need to buy the proper equipment and get a proper setup.

Lets start over on some things:

What is the setup right now? How is the cage setup? Pics would be best(top view too.)

Did you get a mister or fogger?

Do you have a temp gun?

Whats the humidity staying at?

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I also looked back.

The main cage is not adequate. It is tall, but diamonds are the least arboreal of the carpet group. They require a much broader range of climate zones than what I see offered in that cage. Floor space is needed and an area that is MUCH cooler than the warm side has to be available, along with an in-between zone.

If the snake is easily stressed, the problems will compound, the immune system will weaken and the snake will develop "diamond syndrome".

I mentioned most of this including the vet in the first two posts I wrote in this thread.

KMG is correct in thinking you should seek an experienced diamond python person after seeing a vet for care to maybe care for or at least give you 1 on 1 guidance with the snake.

The long term husbandry is going to be the determining factor, and I don't think you've ever had it exactly right for this animal.

I would find that vet by Monday.

I would also suggest e-mailing, and then asking Nick Mutton if he has any ideas. I spoke to him by phone for 2 hours about a month ago. He is a first class gentleman and he may be able to help you.

That's all I have left on this.

Just read through the 5 plus pages,and even with all the great advice that was given we seem to be at a impasse. It's really sad too bc most people would take the advice and adjust their husbandry accordingly. Herp vet is way overdue even if it's just to start a baseline for care. That is our responsibility as reptile keepers. Hope the diamond improves.

Not very constructive here but i'm amazed this post is still going and you haven't changed the caging or taken the snake to a vet considering how much trouble the initial caging was giving to begin with. Not to be a jerk but the situation you are in needed more than a bandaid to fix it. You need a PVC cage and a vet.

I've looked at all the posts on this thread numerous times. Do you guys realize how conflicting the info you've given me is? I know I seem stupid, but I'm doing everything I can. It's not my husbandry; Dexter has septicemia. That is why nothing I do is working. Going to vet tomorrow.

Gio, the fact that you said diamond pythons aren't typically arboreal shows me that you know next to nothing about the species. He's almost always up high, but does go down for water and to just hang out sometimes.

Personally, I think the best thing for Dexter would be an outdoor enclosure in a semi-humid environment. But, it's not my snake it is my sisters snake.


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Where did the diagnoses of septicemia come from? Same place scale rot came from?

You have been given some good advice. Sure some have shared some ideas and information that is different than the others but your gonna get that.

What bothers me is you have not only been given good ideas, but good pieces of equipment to get, people to talk to, and books to buy. Other than you covering the little screen on the front of the cage in the very beginning I have not seen you actually use any of it. I don't think making a call to one of the given experts would have been very difficult. They would certainly be able to tell you what is wrong with the setup and get you on the right track.

You don't answer the questions asked. You don't post pics of the snakes skin. You don't run us through the current setup. I don't think you are stupid but I do feel like you are hiding something. We can only help if the person asking for it helps us. I say it often, help us help you. We are not there and can not see what you see so without you giving us good details and some pics we have no way of knowing what you are dealing with there.

I wish you luck.

The diagnosis of septicemia came from his bleeding infected skin which is a big symptom of septicemia. The reason I haven't followed the advice of getting a PVC cage is because I think it's going to cause more problems. This poor animal has enough of an infection, he doesn't need yet more humidity to encourage more bacterial growth. After covering the screen on the front as well as a bit on the sides and top, I realized there was virtually no air flow. They build in vents down at the bottom for a reason. The advice that has been shared with me is wrong. Diamond pythons are not ball pythons or boa constrictors. They hardly compare to other carpets. They do not need a 90 degree hot spot, but they also do not need a 60 degree cool spot. Despite what anyone tells me, these snakes are arboreal. When I watch videos of these snakes in the wild, where are they? In trees of course.

My setup:
I don't have pictures but will try to remember to take some. As of now, he has a 65 watt bulb that provides his basking ledge with with a temperature of 85 f. He has many branches to climb on and a magnaturals cave on one of his walls. He has a large water dish that takes up approximately half of the floor. The substrate is paper towel. He has a ground hide as well. He has a philodendron silver plant to help with humidity and air quality. I'm also going to setup a UVB lamp for him tomorrow. I don't use hygrometers because I think they are worthless and incorrect(as soon as water touches the probe, the humidity level goes way up.) as of now his cage is dry because of the infection. I have posted pictures of his skin and his initial setup(has been changed) and I will get some pictures of his infection and his setup as soon as I can. I'm going to try and get him in to see a vet tomorrow. I'm not trying to hide anything.


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Again, not trying to be a jerk but you are not a vet and doing home diagnosis is not going to help you or the snake. It will probably end with the snake dead. You need to just take him into the vet and get a real diagnosis, not guess work. Just be aware though, unless the root problem for the illness is fixed, all the medicine in the world wont help. You seem to know more than any of us about the care the snake needs so asking us just seems like a set up for an argument.

Bottom line is the snake needs a vet and his cage needs some serious modifications since a snake in the proper environment are generally very hardy. They get illness from a compromised immune system which is caused by stress, incorrect husbandry or a combination of both. But like I said, you seem to try and contradict any info we give you and say we are all wrong. If that is the case, why ask us? At least you do agree he needs a vet. I wish you the best of luck with that guy but judging by all the problems you have posted he has, he is going to have a serious uphill battle. Good Luck.

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Originally Posted by gameonpython

I've looked at all the posts on this thread numerous times. Do you guys realize how conflicting the info you've given me is? I know I seem stupid, but I'm doing everything I can. It's not my husbandry; Dexter has septicemia. That is why nothing I do is working. Going to vet tomorrow.

Gio, the fact that you said diamond pythons aren't typically arboreal shows me that you know next to nothing about the species. He's almost always up high, but does go down for water and to just hang out sometimes.

Personally, I think the best thing for Dexter would be an outdoor enclosure in a semi-humid environment. But, it's not my snake it is my sisters snake.


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Oops ,,

Wanna try again mate? I said they are the least arboreal of the group, which shows me you never read the book recommend at least 5 times. ALL Morelia are semi arboreal. Don't become defensive here. I have gone out of my way to help and have given good advice. So have others. Your cage is too small. He has nowhere to go but up. It's 2 feet wide and he is 5 years old he can't get out of a climate zone with 24" of width.

The snake is suffering and it is a husbandry issue adding to the problem. There is no conflicting advice. Read the links, read the book, get a proper cage and see a vet.

Do not tell me I know next to nothing when every link I sent was from an expert.

Diamonds are the least arboreal of the group and need the widest range of temps. Period. You are not providing the RANGE.

Anything else??

I agree with Gio about the cage being to small. From what I have seen these guys need a lot of space to move and exercise unlike many snakes.

Have you bought a IR temp gun? They can be had for $10 bucks on Amazon.

I really hope you have and you know what the basking spot temp really is. I don't have a lot to go on but I feel like the hotspot is to warm and the skin issues has started from that. Just from what you said it sounds like the skin was slightly burned and blistered, which you then rubbed off. Again, just a guess because I cant get any information. That of course was paired with low humidity in the beginning with was causing the initial issues.

As to covering the screen at the bottom. YES, that screen is there for a reason. However, that is not a carpet cage. That's a multi animal cage that is not specific to any one animal. I had a much larger version of it for my BRB for awhile. With the bottom screen open I could not hold the humidity I needed. I covered it with electrical tape and all was well for me.

If you think the issue is air flow its easy to open a couple inches of the bottom screen to allow some air to pass. You have to tell us about it though. So, why do you feel you do not have proper air flow. What signs is the cage giving you that makes you think that is the case?

With a 25% survival rate, I put him down today at the vet. I was correct in my diagnosis of septicemia. The vet said it was not my fault; septicemia can go on for a long time but by the time it is noticed it is too late.

Yes I have an Ir temp gun.

Can I ask how a 4'Hx4'Wx2'D is too small?? Correct me if I'm wrong, but most carpets are housed in 4'x2'x2' enclosures.


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Well that's to bad. Its a bad feeling having to make that decision.

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Originally Posted by gameonpython

With a 25% survival rate, I put him down today at the vet. I was correct in my diagnosis of septicemia. The vet said it was not my fault; septicemia can go on for a long time but by the time it is noticed it is too late.

Yes I have an Ir temp gun.

Can I ask how a 4'Hx4'Wx2'D is too small?? Correct me if I'm wrong, but most carpets are housed in 4'x2'x2' enclosures.


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That sucks man. I'm sorry.

I still recommend the book. It may help give you some insight as to the optimum housing setup and health issues that can arise because of their different requirements. Plus it is an excellent read.

He was a nice looking snake and I know your heart was in the right place.

I think everybody posting was sincerely trying to help.

Keep your chin up.