Best dog breed for the 'outdoors'? (For new dog owner too)

The crate training for 2-3 months is a good time frame to start with. Use the crate when you can't be home but make sure the pup is taken outside every couple hours. The time can be slowly increased that they stay in the crate. I don't think any pup/dog should be kept in the crate for a whole work day. Get a friend or family to stop by every day to take them out or hire a service who can do this.

As for when they can be allowed the run of the place, it all depends on the dogs. Some are never a problem. Others die of old age.

Since you have the breed narrowed down, start with breed specific organizations/associations. AKC is helpful but not always the best. http://www.gundogbreeders.com/ is a good resource for a gun dog breed. Puppyfinder is not a good place to shop. Hip and CERF is a must IMO.

Dew claws are debatable as well. Tight fitting dew claws are very very rarely ever a problem. I wouldn't worry about dew claws.

http://www.thelabradorclub.com/

Look here for breeders to start.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

http://www.thelabradorclub.com/

Look here for breeders to start.

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I have already haha. Made a list and everything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

The crate training for 2-3 months is a good time frame to start with. Use the crate when you can't be home but make sure the pup is taken outside every couple hours. The time can be slowly increased that they stay in the crate. I don't think any pup/dog should be kept in the crate for a whole work day. Get a friend or family to stop by every day to take them out or hire a service who can do this.

As for when they can be allowed the run of the place, it all depends on the dogs. Some are never a problem. Others die of old age.

Since you have the breed narrowed down, start with breed specific organizations/associations. AKC is helpful but not always the best. http://www.gundogbreeders.com/ is a good resource for a gun dog breed. Puppyfinder is not a good place to shop. Hip and CERF is a must IMO.

Dew claws are debatable as well. Tight fitting dew claws are very very rarely ever a problem. I wouldn't worry about dew claws.

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Thanks for the reply!

I watched a video, this and another I can't remember the title, and it was saying to keep the dog in the crate whenever you were at home for the first couple days and take them out accordingly. It also said to make sure you're always holding the pup or have it in your lap to make sure it has no 'freedom' for the couple weeks that it is being trained. I'll be most likely getting it at the start of the summer in a few years so I'll be able to train it then. And hopefully by the time I'm in grad school (2-3 months after training) it'll be properly potty trained.

Is it okay to get a 'gun breed dog' even though I won't be using it as such? I'll just be going on long hikes and walks with it?

And I'm hoping I can get the color I want as I've been eyeing two diff. colors haha

And thanks so much!

Some of the breeders on that gundogbreeder site may not want to sell a puppy to someone who doesn't plan to hunt. A few of those may be snarky about it to be honest. Lots of phone calls, be honest about you want and feel comfortable with the breeder. A good idea is to ask breeders if they may have a "washout" available, a pup or young dog who doesn't have the "hunt" or perhaps a pup that is a breeding prospect but a physical or temperament issue prevents the breeder from using it for breeding. It is likely still going to able a great companion for you if you are talking with a reputable breeder.

Make 10-20 or 50 calls to different breeders, you have time. A breeder that you like talking to may not have a pup for you but they may have a suggestion for a different breeder.

There are a LOT of lab breeders in your area. You can shop local with ease and never buy from a breeder who won't let you see their kennel and the dam. It is great to see the sire but they may have shipped the dam for breeding or used frozen sperm so if they have a good reason to not see the sire, that isn't a deal breaker.

DO NOT be hooked in by "specialty" breeders of designer colors. Paying a premium for a so-called silver or red lab is going to be money better spent in healthcare, getting into a house, building an outdoor kennel etc. Some breeders charge more for Chocolate labs, don't bother and look for a different breeder. You have time and a large breed gene pool to shop from.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

Some of the breeders on that gundogbreeder site may not want to sell a puppy to someone who doesn't plan to hunt. A few of those may be snarky about it to be honest. Lots of phone calls, be honest about you want and feel comfortable with the breeder. A good idea is to ask breeders if they may have a "washout" available, a pup or young dog who doesn't have the "hunt" or perhaps a pup that is a breeding prospect but a physical or temperament issue prevents the breeder from using it for breeding. It is likely still going to able a great companion for you if you are talking with a reputable breeder.

Make 10-20 or 50 calls to different breeders, you have time. A breeder that you like talking to may not have a pup for you but they may have a suggestion for a different breeder.

There are a LOT of lab breeders in your area. You can shop local with ease and never buy from a breeder who won't let you see their kennel and the dam. It is great to see the sire but they may have shipped the dam for breeding or used frozen sperm so if they have a good reason to not see the sire, that isn't a deal breaker.

DO NOT be hooked in by "specialty" breeders of designer colors. Paying a premium for a so-called silver or red lab is going to be money better spent in healthcare, getting into a house, building an outdoor kennel etc. Some breeders charge more for Chocolate labs, don't bother and look for a different breeder. You have time and a large breed gene pool to shop from.

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Gotcha, and I'll make sure to do a lot of calling. Since I don't have an onschool job yet, which I plan on having either this year or starting next year, I don't want to contact them right now as I don't want to commit to anything until I have made the money already. How soon would you say to put a deposit down for a puppy?

Will do! Do I also have to ask for all the certifications in print (for the parents) and papers for all the shots or do they normally include those?

I was mainly hooked to the fox red and Chocolate, but you're right, they usually charge a bit more for the fox red and I can't really justify that. However I've come across breeders who charge $900 and others who charge $1500, and I'm leaning towards the cheaper ones (not to sound bad but because they include more certifications and sometimes a better guarantee). However, there are a number that don't list the price online so I have my work cut out for me haha.

I think, according to that good video you linked, the holding in your lap etc is only for the first 3-4 days. After that, you can closely supervise indoor puppy time. Mistakes will happen. Catching them in the act simply involves some gentle repeated "No, no no, outside." Carry them outside even when you know the pee or poo is going to land on you. Once they are outside, use the "pee" command. I used, "Do your thing" lol.

I have also had to clean up mistakes of course. Instead of throwing the mess into the garbage, I picked up the puppy, again with the gentle no no (GENTLE) and took the mess to where they are supposed to go. Cleaning up the mess so the scent isn't there is essential but not hard. A spray bottle with half and half water and white vinegar with a teaspoon of dish soap works well. Enzymatic cleaners specifically to clean up pee and poo can work well but they are a little pricey. A small carpet cleaner is helpful. Get a rental with darker colored carpet if it has carpeting!!!

The most often used rule of thumb for crate training is age of pup in months is how many hours they can stay in the crate before taking them outside. A 2 month old pup can be in crate for 2 hours. A 4 month old pup is 4 hours etc.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

I think, according to that good video you linked, the holding in your lap etc is only for the first 3-4 days. After that, you can closely supervise indoor puppy time. Mistakes will happen. Catching them in the act simply involves some gentle repeated "No, no no, outside." Carry them outside even when you know the pee or poo is going to land on you. Once they are outside, use the "pee" command. I used, "Do your thing" lol.

I have also had to clean up mistakes of course. Instead of throwing the mess into the garbage, I picked up the puppy, again with the gentle no no (GENTLE) and took the mess to where they are supposed to go. Cleaning up the mess so the scent isn't there is essential but not hard. A spray bottle with half and half water and white vinegar with a teaspoon of dish soap works well. Enzymatic cleaners specifically to clean up pee and poo can work well but they are a little pricey. A small carpet cleaner is helpful. Get a rental with darker colored carpet if it has carpeting!!!

The most often used rule of thumb for crate training is age of pup in months is how many hours they can stay in the crate before taking them outside. A 2 month old pup can be in crate for 2 hours. A 4 month old pup is 4 hours etc.

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Oh okay gotcha. That seems a lot more plausible haha. I think I'll use your command too if you don't mind haha, sounds better than 'pee' lol. How long does it usually take to potty train them?
Would you recommend keeping them in the same room your are in while they're being potty trained too? And is there an obvious 'cue' when the dog needs to use the restroom?


Okay gotcha!

Thanks for all the help so far!

Keeping the crate in your room at night is partly up to you. It also depends on if you are in an apartment and how well the soundproofing is. Noise complaints because the puppy was whining and barking and you didn't hear it is not good.

Most labs will be 80-90% there in a week or 2 with a lot of time on your part. Its a good idea to not be working for a week after your puppy comes home. It isn't cruel if you can't but it does shorten the potty training time and reduces the chance of a puppy that starts to hate the crate or chooses to pee and poo in the crate even if they lie down in it.

As for when you think a young puppy has to go, if you thought of it, take it outside lol. When they wake up from a nap, after they ate or drank, after play time. A good visual is watching a puppy start to sniff the floor, walk in a bit of a circle a bit while sniffing and the back legs may be kept under the body more than usual while it is walking. While they are in the crate, quiet short whining is okay, a lot of tail wagging, going from standing to sitting repeatedly and pacing are all indicators. Taking a puppy out of a crate right after it has done a #1 and #2 when it is whining, barking and crying is not a good idea at all. Wait for when it is quiet, even if its just 5 seconds of quiet. You don't want the puppy to cry just because it is in the crate. Safe chew toys in the crate is important and be watchful for a puppy that chews bedding. They can easily eat it and die from intestinal blockage.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

Keeping the crate in your room at night is partly up to you. It also depends on if you are in an apartment and how well the soundproofing is. Noise complaints because the puppy was whining and barking and you didn't hear it is not good.

Most labs will be 80-90% there in a week or 2 with a lot of time on your part. Its a good idea to not be working for a week after your puppy comes home. It isn't cruel if you can't but it does shorten the potty training time and reduces the chance of a puppy that starts to hate the crate or chooses to pee and poo in the crate even if they lie down in it.

As for when you think a young puppy has to go, if you thought of it, take it outside lol. When they wake up from a nap, after they ate or drank, after play time. A good visual is watching a puppy start to sniff the floor, walk in a bit of a circle a bit while sniffing and the back legs may be kept under the body more than usual while it is walking. While they are in the crate, quiet short whining is okay, a lot of tail wagging, going from standing to sitting repeatedly and pacing are all indicators. Taking a puppy out of a crate right after it has done a #1 and #2 when it is whining, barking and crying is not a good idea at all. Wait for when it is quiet, even if its just 5 seconds of quiet. You don't want the puppy to cry just because it is in the crate. Safe chew toys in the crate is important and be watchful for a puppy that chews bedding. They can easily eat it and die from intestinal blockage.

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Luckily, for the first 2 1/2 - 3 months the puppy is with me it'll be at my house with myself and my parents (and I plan on being home the entire summer for it as well). So I'm hoping it'll be fine by the time I get to the apartment when it comes to potty training haha. That and from what I read breeders sell the puppies at 7-8 weeks of age so it'll be around 4-5 months when it gets to my apartment. What age would you recommend it start being trained for obedience?

Is there a special kind of bedding that is good for dogs or would they basically be able to chew everything?

A breeder that keeps a puppy until it is 9-10 weeks is a good breeder. They learn a lot from the dam and the siblings in that week or two. As for obedience, right away!!! lol. The only difference is how long the training sessions are and that it is more play for the puppy than anything negative. You see the puppy about to sit, say "sit". Every time you put the puppy in the crate, say crate or place or kennel. Gentle voice and hands can teach a lot in minutes. The more formal training is to reinforce commands when there are distractions. Begin as you intend to live with the puppy until it dies of old age. Training times is just like age/crate times but it is in minutes and not hours. 2 months old, 2 minutes tops and the puppy considers it playtime more than formal training. 1 or 2 minute sessions 5 or 6 or 10 times a day after naps and exercise is better than one 10 minute session for a puppy.

Every interaction with a puppy is training IMO. Basic commands such as sit/stay can be used for everything. Feeding time at the zoo? Have the food ready in the bowl on the counter and use sit until the bowl is on the floor and ALWAYS have a release command. As the pup gets older and has the focus to stay sitting, use the sit command earlier, such as when you are getting the food out of the container. I don't suggest using "okay", its too easy for a person to say it and not mean it as a command. I use "Alright." because I don't say it often but its still easy to think and say. Every time you walk out a door with the puppy, the bathroom door, the bedroom door, outside door, say sit, walk through then alright command. Helps with dominance and I hate a dog that lunges out the door. Do this from the first day and every day, it won't become a problem. Same for putting on the leash.

It is ALWAYS easier to train then slacken off as they get older compared to trying to train an older pup. When they are 1-2 years is when you will want to shave your hair off so you aren't pulling it out. Train them when they still love and adore you lol. Use the fact they believe the sun rises and sets on your butt ruthlessly but gently.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

A breeder that keeps a puppy until it is 9-10 weeks is a good breeder. They learn a lot from the dam and the siblings in that week or two. As for obedience, right away!!! lol. The only difference is how long the training sessions are and that it is more play for the puppy than anything negative. You see the puppy about to sit, say "sit". Every time you put the puppy in the crate, say crate or place or kennel. Gentle voice and hands can teach a lot in minutes. The more formal training is to reinforce commands when there are distractions. Begin as you intend to live with the puppy until it dies of old age. Training times is just like age/crate times but it is in minutes and not hours. 2 months old, 2 minutes tops and the puppy considers it playtime more than formal training. 1 or 2 minute sessions 5 or 6 or 10 times a day after naps and exercise is better than one 10 minute session for a puppy.

Every interaction with a puppy is training IMO. Basic commands such as sit/stay can be used for everything. Feeding time at the zoo? Have the food ready in the bowl on the counter and use sit until the bowl is on the floor and ALWAYS have a release command. As the pup gets older and has the focus to stay sitting, use the sit command earlier, such as when you are getting the food out of the container. I don't suggest using "okay", its too easy for a person to say it and not mean it as a command. I use "Alright." because I don't say it often but its still easy to think and say. Every time you walk out a door with the puppy, the bathroom door, the bedroom door, outside door, say sit, walk through then alright command. Helps with dominance and I hate a dog that lunges out the door. Do this from the first day and every day, it won't become a problem. Same for putting on the leash.

It is ALWAYS easier to train then slacken off as they get older compared to trying to train an older pup. When they are 1-2 years is when you will want to shave your hair off so you aren't pulling it out. Train them when they still love and adore you lol. Use the fact they believe the sun rises and sets on your butt ruthlessly but gently.

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Okay, I'll try looking for breeders that keep the puppies for that long. Haha, I'll do that! I was told before to take them to a group training session first then get a private trainer after the training there has ended. Do you think that is right? Also, how much money usually goes in training? Gotcha, I can picture myself following the puppy everywhere and saying something to it whenever it sits or lays down haha.

That makes sense, I'll try to think of some command words in the meantime! And that would be great to have the dog do that for every room and such. Can't wait to see what my training will result it. Would you recommend gently pushing the pups bottom down to teach them sit better? I heard some people do that. Do you also train them to walk next to you instead of in front of you? I'd love to walk the dog in some places without a leash.

Haha, I definitely will train them younger on. Do you think they'll be properly trained by one year old if done everything correctly or will it take a bit more time?

Group training is only for when all the vaccination boosters are done which is around 6 months old. Group training can be great, again all about homework. Petsmart etc can be okay or it can be horrible. Individual training is the same thing. Gently pushing on the rump when the puppy is calm can work well. Don't say sit until after they are sitting. Dogs of any age can resist the pressure and timing is everything when they are young.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

Group training is only for when all the vaccination boosters are done which is around 6 months old. Group training can be great, again all about homework. Petsmart etc can be okay or it can be horrible. Individual training is the same thing. Gently pushing on the rump when the puppy is calm can work well. Don't say sit until after they are sitting. Dogs of any age can resist the pressure and timing is everything when they are young.

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Gotcha! Is the same that can be said with training them by saying 'Quiet'? Only say it when they're silent or is there another way of doing so?

I would just like to chime in pretty quick with a potty training secret; get yourself a bell on a rope to hang from the door. Whenever the puppy rings the bell (you can teach them this by reaching down to swat the bells every time you take them out) you take them outside right away. My pup learned pretty quick that ringing the bell meant he got to go out, and within two weeks of hanging up the bells he quit having accidents inside. Super simple, and it works with the rest of the potty training tips here.

You can make your own, but a lot of pet stores/online retailers now sell potty training bells.

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Originally Posted by Daigga

I would just like to chime in pretty quick with a potty training secret; get yourself a bell on a rope to hang from the door. Whenever the puppy rings the bell (you can teach them this by reaching down to swat the bells every time you take them out) you take them outside right away. My pup learned pretty quick that ringing the bell meant he got to go out, and within two weeks of hanging up the bells he quit having accidents inside. Super simple, and it works with the rest of the potty training tips here.

You can make your own, but a lot of pet stores/online retailers now sell potty training bells.

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Wow, didn't know that, and that would make things a lot easier. But wouldn't the problem be that they ring it just for the fun of it? Or did you train it a different way?

Edit: Just watched some videos of it and saw that it said it might condition the puppy for jumping on people? That's one of the things I want to train out since jumping on my parents and family would quickly send them running aha

Well, this is a topic i can get into. I have had many breeds and for 20 years we showed and bred bloodhounds. The dogs on your list are all nice but have drawbacks, the dogs that are in the hound group are either going to be scent, nose to the ground and hard to control when on scent, can never be off lead. the greyhound and other sight hounds see something like a bird a cat a rabbit and woosh off they go no lead no stopping them. hounds are the hardest group to obidience train, that is why you never see many in the obedience competitions. the sporting dogs are similar but easier to train to off lead commands. my choice of the best on your list is either a lab, or a golden. They are very smart, that is why they as with the german shepard are used to lead the blind. i have a belgiun tervern and he is a very smart as are all herdind dogs, and are tireless. jack, is my companion dog he sits with me and will find things i drop and pick them up and put them in my lap. I am disabled and have very poor vision. he protects me and keeps me from tripping over things on the floor.

I also love the pit bulls but because of all the bad owners, not bad dogs, many places now automaticlly fine you if any pit bull or pit mix is run off lead, but they are very smart and extremlly trainable. Hope this helps you. I worked for a adoption center doing breed counceling trying to match people and pets, The one aim was if you get the right dog for yourself and family, we would never have to re-home it later.

If you're looking for some help with training, I found a set of videos by a dog trainer named Michael Ellis. They are absolutely fantastic, IMO.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...w=1920&bih=955

when you are looking for a breeder, make sure they don't just breed, make sure they show their dogs. Good breeders only want the best so they are careful breeding and are breeding for not only conformation, but to better the breed health wise. for large breeds they will have the hips cleared by a group called the orthopedict foundation of america OFA, also they may clear the elbows too. This is done for the parents of the pups. Also ask if they cleared the parents for hearts. If they are reputable they will know what you are talking about, If they don't what you are talking about, walk away. I don't care what anyone says too you, every dog has medical problems inherant with thier breed. Be very aware of what to look for. Also every breed has a national club with a website, once you have narrowed your choice down to 2 or 3 do your research and go to these national clubs. Breeders in good standing will be members and you can talk to them. Reputable breeders love their breed and will talk to you forever and will answer any question, Ask about their sales contract and their requirments. if they have none walk away. I never let a pup go without a sales contract. Make sure that in their contract it says that if for any reason you can't keep the dog at any time in its life, they will take it back. That was one of my stipulations for a sale. I knew where every one of my pups went and where and when they passed from this life. It also shows that a good breeder will not just sell you a pup, but will be there for the long haul. You are a new dog owner and will need all the support a good breeder can give, also all the breed knowledge on your breed they have.

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Originally Posted by blue roses

when you are looking for a breeder, make sure they don't just breed, make sure they show their dogs. Good breeders only want the best so they are careful breeding and are breeding for not only conformation, but to better the breed health wise. for large breeds they will have the hips cleared by a group called the orthopedict foundation of america OFA, also they may clear the elbows too. This is done for the parents of the pups. Also ask if they cleared the parents for hearts. If they are reputable they will know what you are talking about, If they don't what you are talking about, walk away. I don't care what anyone says too you, every dog has medical problems inherant with thier breed. Be very aware of what to look for. Also every breed has a national club with a website, once you have narrowed your choice down to 2 or 3 do your research and go to these national clubs. Breeders in good standing will be members and you can talk to them. Reputable breeders love their breed and will talk to you forever and will answer any question, Ask about their sales contract and their requirments. if they have none walk away. I never let a pup go without a sales contract. Make sure that in their contract it says that if for any reason you can't keep the dog at any time in its life, they will take it back. That was one of my stipulations for a sale. I knew where every one of my pups went and where and when they passed from this life. It also shows that a good breeder will not just sell you a pup, but will be there for the long haul. You are a new dog owner and will need all the support a good breeder can give, also all the breed knowledge on your breed they have.

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Thanks for the reply!

And that's what I was looking for! So far I've narrowed it down to five, however just contacted one. I emailed one expressing my interest in buying a pup in the 2018 year and was wondering about the reservation fee and when to pay it. I want to sort of build up a conversation they trust me, being a first time dog owner and all. Is this a bad idea and should I have not sent the message?

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Originally Posted by 200xth

If you're looking for some help with training, I found a set of videos by a dog trainer named Michael Ellis. They are absolutely fantastic, IMO.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...w=1920&bih=955

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He's with Leerburg - they have a fantastic website too:

http://leerburg.com/

Forrest Micke is also with Leerburg and he also has some great videos.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...+forrest+micke

No, you should talk to as many breeders as possible. Make sure they know you are a first time owner. If they seem leery about selling you a pup, thats a breeder i would look at closely, because the welfare of their pups are more important then the money. Don't limit yourself to breeders that are only a drive away, pups are flown cross country every day. Ome of my pups actually went to Isreal, The owner came to see my litter when he was on vacation and he fell in love with the dogs, so 4 visits later and after meeting with his family, he went home with a lovely male pup as a friend for his great dane. He was good as his word and kept in contact with me. So don't be afraid to look for quality rather then distance. If you talk to a breeder and you are not comfortable with them, look elsewhere. If you find a great breeder and they don't have pups right now, be patient, you might have to wait. most good breeders will usually know another breeder who has or will have pups available. Remember this is a 12 - 15 year comitment so be patient. I remember all of my pup were spoken for by the time the litter was born. I never advertised. My litters were always large 10 - 12 pups per litter. Make sure the breed is a family decision. If you have any questions i would love to help. Just remember those national breed clubs, they are your best bet to find a quality breeder. Ask a lot of questions, if they seem bothered by them, find another breeder. i use to spend at leas an hour or more on first contact, and i either set up a visit, talked them out of the breed, or flatly refused to considered selling them one of my babies. Bloodhounds are a giant breed and only live 9-11 years and their lives should be as happy as you can make them.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

He's with Leerburg - they have a fantastic website too:

http://leerburg.com/

Forrest Micke is also with Leerburg and he also has some great videos.

https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...+forrest+micke

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I'll have to checkout the Micke videos. I did find Ellis through the Leerburg site. Overall that is a very good site as well.

Ellis' ideas and methods kind of clicked for me, so I've just stuck to his videos for now. I've made huge strides with my 4 month old puppy using his videos and training techniques. I'm gonna check out the Micke videos tonight though. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by blue roses

No, you should talk to as many breeders as possible. Make sure they know you are a first time owner. If they seem leery about selling you a pup, thats a breeder i would look at closely, because the welfare of their pups are more important then the money. Don't limit yourself to breeders that are only a drive away, pups are flown cross country every day. Ome of my pups actually went to Isreal, The owner came to see my litter when he was on vacation and he fell in love with the dogs, so 4 visits later and after meeting with his family, he went home with a lovely male pup as a friend for his great dane. He was good as his word and kept in contact with me. So don't be afraid to look for quality rather then distance. If you talk to a breeder and you are not comfortable with them, look elsewhere. If you find a great breeder and they don't have pups right now, be patient, you might have to wait. most good breeders will usually know another breeder who has or will have pups available. Remember this is a 12 - 15 year comitment so be patient. I remember all of my pup were spoken for by the time the litter was born. I never advertised. My litters were always large 10 - 12 pups per litter. Make sure the breed is a family decision. If you have any questions i would love to help. Just remember those national breed clubs, they are your best bet to find a quality breeder. Ask a lot of questions, if they seem bothered by them, find another breeder. i use to spend at leas an hour or more on first contact, and i either set up a visit, talked them out of the breed, or flatly refused to considered selling them one of my babies. Bloodhounds are a giant breed and only live 9-11 years and their lives should be as happy as you can make them.

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Thanks! So if someone seems leary, I should cross them out or should I be more persistent? Sorry didn't quite get the part aha.

Whenever I talk to another breeder, I'll try not to ask about the money part as I don't want them to think it's all about money, because it's really not (however if a puppy is $2500, I probably won't be able to get it aha). I actually want the breeder to be driving distance away tbh, I want to check out their facility and I'd like to meet with the breeders and the puppies parents, as this will be my first dog so I want to do everything like that (then for the second dog I wouldn't mind it being flown in haha). I don't mind waiting, however, there's a small time window that I'll be able to get the puppy in. It'll be between the beginning of the 2018 year till May of 2018 (or maybe even August, but I'd like to potty train it by then). I know that it's pushing it and all, but I'd like to familiarize the puppy with my family, and be able to spend at least a month or two with it before I start my grad schooling. It's a short time space so that's why I'll try talking to a range of breeders to see who usually has pups during the summer time or earlier on in the year.

And the deposits are usually made before the pups are even born? So if I'm dead set on having a puppy I should probably put the money down by the 2017 year, if they're forsure breeding the parents to have a litter during that time period?

The best time of year for you is the time that most breeders have puppies ready to go to new homes.

My opinion is that the breeder doesn't have to be a show breeder but they have to be doing something with their dogs. Agility, obedience, therapy are good choices. Hunting lines make smart dogs but they can be too high energy. It doesn't happen often anymore but a puppy that is not suitable as an assistance dog can be a great find.

Health checks on the parents are always a must.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

The best time of year for you is the time that most breeders have puppies ready to go to new homes.

My opinion is that the breeder doesn't have to be a show breeder but they have to be doing something with their dogs. Agility, obedience, therapy are good choices. Hunting lines make smart dogs but they can be too high energy. It doesn't happen often anymore but a puppy that is not suitable as an assistance dog can be a great find.

Health checks on the parents are always a must.

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I'm not looking for show breeders so to speak either since they mainly breed the English type labs and from what I heard they're not as good with outdoorsy things like the American types are. I'll make sure I look for those characteristics!

I know this might have been mentioned already, what kind of health checks in particular? I know they have to have been OFA and CERF certified, but what else?

Thanks!

There are test for heart health. Another test that can now be checked via DNA is EIC. Exercise Induced Collapse. It has killed and caused life long health issues. A good thing to ask the breeder about since you plan to be very active and outdoors with your dog.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

There are test for heart health. Another test that can now be checked via DNA is EIC. Exercise Induced Collapse. It has killed and caused life long health issues. A good thing to ask the breeder about since you plan to be very active and outdoors with your dog.

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Thanks!

I've noticed that some breeders don't test for EIC or Heart Health but they do have OFA and CERF certifications, should they be crossed off the list if they don't have the first two tested?

EIC is not a common test yet. Heart is a common test. If I had the time to shop around for a breeder and the time to save up, I would prefer a puppy from parents with those tests done. It can raise the price but not to any serious degree.

I do know the EIC needs the gene from both parents to be symptomatic. You are likely not planning to breed so if the breeder can show that one parent has been tested, you will be okay but your puppy may be a carrier. That isn't an issue unless you plan to breed.

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Originally Posted by Monty's_Mom

EIC is not a common test yet. Heart is a common test. If I had the time to shop around for a breeder and the time to save up, I would prefer a puppy from parents with those tests done. It can raise the price but not to any serious degree.

I do know the EIC needs the gene from both parents to be symptomatic. You are likely not planning to breed so if the breeder can show that one parent has been tested, you will be okay but your puppy may be a carrier. That isn't an issue unless you plan to breed.

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Yea, I'm not planning to breed so that's fine then. I'll look mainly for the hearth health and the certifications then, if they are tested for EIC then that'll be a plus haha.

Thanks so much!

One last thing, for now haha, is a male or female easier to train or overall an more laid back individual or does it not matter when it comes to the gender?

I would ask a professional trainer.

However for me, for over 30 years I had,had only males. Then after having my first few females, I have never gone back to a male in 25 years.
Mine have been more loyal and MUCH easier to train.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06...d4e331f7ac.jpg

I don't think gender matters. Many people have a preference for various reasons.

I prefer females, I don't like dealing with marking and humping. I know some females do this as well but it's not as common. Both my girls mark but it's all outside.

I have a friend that prefers boys, she feels they are more goofy and sweeter. No idea if it's true, my girls are pretty sweet :)

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Originally Posted by Reinz

I would ask a professional trainer.

However for me, for over 30 years I had,had only males. Then after having my first few females, I have never gone back to a male in 25 years.
Mine have been more loyal and MUCH easier to train.

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Gotcha, I'll try for a female then!

And a question(s) regarding handling:
I was looking through some classes in my area and came across what seemed like a few good places, however they offer a variety of classes/levels. What I'm looking for in a companion is to be able to have the basic foundation (sit, stay, quiet, come when the name is called, lay down, wait till the food reaches the ground and then given a command to eat, and other things along of that line) and some more advanced things such as staying near me when off the leash and when going on hikes proper recall when name is called once. Also, if they have separation anxiety, I'd like to take care of that.

Another thing to add- I'll have anywhere from a 2-2 1/2 month gap while at home to take classes. Then I'll be off for grad schooling. Not saying I won't be able to attend classes then, but I feel like it would be better to get a private trainer then since they are more flexible opposed to class timings.

These are some of the classes that are offered at the local place:
Puppy Class (socialization, basic commands, potty train) 3-6 months of age
CGC Class 6+ months
Beginner Obedience Class (On leash)
Obedience Off leash

And then after the classes I'll get a private trainer.

I'm thinking all of those classes would be really helpful, but since I also aim on getting a private trainer, some won't be needed. Or should I just scrap the idea of a private trainer and invest my money in the cheaper (overall) group classes? Total, the classes I mentioned were 30 weeks and I would be saving a bit of money.

What do you guys think would suite dog better?

Start with Puppy classes and build a solid foundation even after the classes are done. For CGC I would wait until your dog is at least 2 years. That way they are usually out of their teenage stage and will be a bit more mature. CGC is tough and requires you dog to be calm in well behaved in a bunch of different scenarios.

I don't foresee you being able to complete all those classes in 2.5 months. Your puppy needs time to grow and mature in order to be able to focus on more obedience.

Puppies have a very short attention span. Once they grow a bit they are better focused and willing to listen.

I agree with HVani.

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Originally Posted by HVani

Start with Puppy classes and build a solid foundation even after the classes are done. For CGC I would wait until your dog is at least 2 years. That way they are usually out of their teenage stage and will be a bit more mature. CGC is tough and requires you dog to be calm in well behaved in a bunch of different scenarios.

I don't foresee you being able to complete all those classes in 2.5 months. Your puppy needs time to grow and mature in order to be able to focus on more obedience.

Puppies have a very short attention span. Once they grow a bit they are better focused and willing to listen.

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What age can it start going to Puppy classes? I was at least wanting it to go the Puppy class during the summer and then after I train with it more (few months), by myself, I can move on to CGC. Then after the CGC I was going to take it on a 'trial' hike and see if it would listen to what I was doing or not, and if not, I would take it to the obedience class or get a professional trainer.

Once they have their shots they can go to puppy classes. Just double check with the class rules.

I use to teach puppy classes. They are a lot of fun. Play time is mixed in with training since their attention span is so short. I love watching puppies play ♥

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Originally Posted by HVani

Once they have their shots they can go to puppy classes. Just double check with the class rules.

I use to teach puppy classes. They are a lot of fun. Play time is mixed in with training since their attention span is so short. I love watching puppies play ♥

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How fast do puppies learn commands (like sit, stay, quiet, etc.) if I may ask? And what sort of commands do you learn in the class?

And about how long would it take them to get potty trained?

Thanks!

It's all gonna depend on the individual dog. My personal dogs have been terriers. Very smart but very stubborn and can be difficult to train.

Dogs I have worked with have been all over the map. Some just don't get it, while others get it after a couple repetitions. You just need to practice. And not just in class, outside, inside, at your house, someone else's house ect. Dogs are not great at generalizing. They may know sit really well at home but while at the pet store they look at you like they have never heard the word before.

Potty Training I would say about 2 weeks, your pup should have it. As long as you have frequent potty breaks. They just can't hold it very long.

Stuff you learn in class is typically things like, Sit, Down, Stay, Leave It, Recall, Wait, Loose Leash Walking, How to greet people, Stuff like that.
Some classes teach a few extras like Stand, Go to your Place, Touch (I love this game, it helps dogs learn hands are fun. I use it when we are having to wait somewhere. My dog loves to be moving so we play Touch).

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Originally Posted by HVani

It's all gonna depend on the individual dog. My personal dogs have been terriers. Very smart but very stubborn and can be difficult to train.

Dogs I have worked with have been all over the map. Some just don't get it, while others get it after a couple repetitions. You just need to practice. And not just in class, outside, inside, at your house, someone else's house ect. Dogs are not great at generalizing. They may know sit really well at home but while at the pet store they look at you like they have never heard the word before.

Potty Training I would say about 2 weeks, your pup should have it. As long as you have frequent potty breaks. They just can't hold it very long.

Stuff you learn in class is typically things like, Sit, Down, Stay, Leave It, Recall, Wait, Loose Leash Walking, How to greet people, Stuff like that.
Some classes teach a few extras like Stand, Go to your Place, Touch (I love this game, it helps dogs learn hands are fun. I use it when we are having to wait somewhere. My dog loves to be moving so we play Touch).

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What is your experience with labs? Are they faster learners or a bit on the slow side overall?

Can they start being potty trained at 7-8 weeks of age or is it still young?

Ughhh, I'm getting really excited now haha

Most labs seem pretty smart, though I have met some real blockhead labs. Some just get so excited you as asking something of them that they don't focus on what you are asking. Most of those cases are young/teenage dogs that haven't had much training.

Potty training should start the day you bring them home.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HVani

Most labs seem pretty smart, though I have met some real blockhead labs. Some just get so excited you as asking something of them that they don't focus on what you are asking. Most of those cases are young/teenage dogs that haven't had much training.

Potty training should start the day you bring them home.

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Well hopefully mine isn't like that! Haha.

When potty training a 7-8 week old puppy, how do you prepare them for the night? Do you stop giving them water two-three hours before you go to sleep or? And also when it comes to feeding them do you just give them the recommended amount twice, or is it three?, and then take away any leftovers they have or do you leave the leftovers there?

Keeping them crated at night should help reduce accidents. I haven't had a puppy in a long time but I have had a lot of rescues and for them, in the first few weeks I take them out in the middle of the night when I wake up to go pee.

Some remove water, some don't.

For food take the amount they should be getting per day and cut it into meals. For a young puppy I think a lunch is important. For example, if you puppy should have 1 cups of food, then feed 1/3 cup per meal. Once they are a little older you can switch to 2 meals a day. It's easier on their digestive system. Stay consistent with your feeding times and you should be able to time potty breaks with them.

I am a firm believer in taking food up if they don't finish it within a certain time period. Many times free feeding leads to obesity in adulthood. And like I said above it's easier to predict when they will need to potty.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HVani

Keeping them crated at night should help reduce accidents. I haven't had a puppy in a long time but I have had a lot of rescues and for them, in the first few weeks I take them out in the middle of the night when I wake up to go pee.

Some remove water, some don't.

For food take the amount they should be getting per day and cut it into meals. For a young puppy I think a lunch is important. For example, if you puppy should have 1 cups of food, then feed 1/3 cup per meal. Once they are a little older you can switch to 2 meals a day. It's easier on their digestive system. Stay consistent with your feeding times and you should be able to time potty breaks with them.

I am a firm believer in taking food up if they don't finish it within a certain time period. Many times free feeding leads to obesity in adulthood. And like I said above it's easier to predict when they will need to potty.

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Thanks so much for helping me and bearing with my newbie questions!

So then taking them out in the night once should be done for the first few weeks?

Is a schedule like this good for a puppy 8 am, 12 pm and then 6 pm?

How long should you leave the food out? Around 30 min or less?

And when the dog becomes around 1 year of age, how often should you take them out to use the bathroom? Is it okay to leave them for a class day? (6-7 hours or so?)

You don't have to take them out in the middle of the night. I just think it can help. A full night is a long time for them to hold it.

For a puppy you will be wanted to go out way more often. Every 2 hours when they are young. As much as you can. My adult dogs go out at 6am Again 6:30am after they eat. I go home for lunch and let them out at 11:30am. They go out at 4pm when I get home and again after they eat at 5. Then 1-2 more times before bed.

I leave food down for 15 minutes. If it isn't eaten then try again at the next meal. They learn this pretty quick.

I would say you will be fine to leave your pup for that long once, he/she is old enough. My dogs could make it 8 hours if needed, but I can go home for lunch and I enjoy spending the time with them. So I do. :)

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Originally Posted by HVani

You don't have to take them out in the middle of the night. I just think it can help. A full night is a long time for them to hold it.

For a puppy you will be wanted to go out way more often. Every 2 hours when they are young. As much as you can. My adult dogs go out at 6am Again 6:30am after they eat. I go home for lunch and let them out at 11:30am. They go out at 4pm when I get home and again after they eat at 5. Then 1-2 more times before bed.

I leave food down for 15 minutes. If it isn't eaten then try again at the next meal. They learn this pretty quick.

I would say you will be fine to leave your pup for that long once, he/she is old enough. My dogs could make it 8 hours if needed, but I can go home for lunch and I enjoy spending the time with them. So I do. :)

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Gotcha. I'll at least do that for the first month or until they become four months old.

Oh I meant for an eating schedule haha. I'll be following the month rule, 2 months every two hours, etc. When they get around 1 year old, I'll take them out as much as I can whenever I'm home.

Do you add in the food they didn't eat, or do you just keep it at 1/3 at every meal and not add in what they didn't eat before (for an example)

Oh and when you're training the puppy, is it okay to give treats to them when they do the command correctly? I've heard some sources say that it's not okay and that you should reinforce with petting them instead.

You can download Ian Dunbars books for free, I believe they are just titled "before" and "after you get your new puppy" and they cover a lot of the basics for training and socializing.


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Treats are more rewarding than pets for most dogs. You want to use something your dogs loves as a reward during training. You need to really motivate them.

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