How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

I have been debating further about a few of the options for this setup:

1. The T10 instead of the T8 for the extra height 15" vs 12", just for more clearance to have access to the BP.
2. The Swing doors instead of the sliders although it adds a little more to the price, I like the looks better. Not sure if they are better functionally or not?

I did look at the Pro Products RHP and definitely think its worth giving them a call to discuss before deciding on that. I plan to use 2 RHP's, one for each side. Sounds like the Pro RHP may allow a smaller unit if they are that much more efficient?

I have been looking at thermostats and like the Herpstat 2 for this setup. Also looking at the VE200 / VE300 models.

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For anything other than their quick ship items expect 8-10 week delays or longer!!! I just got 2 T8s from them as quick ship items (glass sliding doors instead of the other options) even the quick ship 10 day period stated ended up being 21 days including the day they arrived. AND I am still missing the optional dividers and glass doors...those were shipped out yesterday...so by the time I finish assembling it all it will be 25+ days since placing my order...

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

T8 vs T10 makes very little difference. Personally I don't think it is worth the extra cost and certainly not the 6-8 weeks longer to get.

The Swing doors will make it harder to get into, and the windows are made from plexiglass. They will scratch easier, warp over time, and yellow over time. I would stick with the glass sliding doors but that's just me.

The herpstat 2 is a much better thermostat than the VE200 or 300. Herpstats are safer, have more features/capabilities, and overall are a better value for your $$.

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Aaron...any update on that experiment of yours?? I am quite interested in your findings!!

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Originally Posted by OsirisRa32

Aaron...any update on that experiment of yours?? I am quite interested in your findings!!

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I actually just updated that thread.

:P I saw that like 20 seconds after I had already posted in here asking about it...LOL

Thanks for the help / info guys, its time to start placing some orders today.

Ordered my T8 today, with glass sliders, divider and two lights. Opted out of the flexwatt in favor of two Pro Heat RHPs, being shipped to AP for install. I'll see how it goes without a UTH and can always throw it on later if needed. As we only have one snake now, gotta decide what to put in the vacant side.:P Also still tossing a coin between Herpstat 2 or 4 for possible future upgrades. Thanks for all of the pics on the set up, plenty of wait time to figure out where to put probes, etc.

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Originally Posted by danojeno

Ordered my T8 today, with glass sliders, divider and two lights. Opted out of the flexwatt in favor of two Pro Heat RHPs, being shipped to AP for install. I'll see how it goes without a UTH and can always throw it on later if needed. As we only have one snake now, gotta decide what to put in the vacant side.:P Also still tossing a coin between Herpstat 2 or 4 for possible future upgrades. Thanks for all of the pics on the set up, plenty of wait time to figure out where to put probes, etc.

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Dont forget to read the directions for the RHPS...many models need to be off gased for a few hours before putting anything living in an enclosed area with the RHPs...

After debating back and forth on which route to go, I finally decided to get (2) of the T8's with Glass, Locks and a light for each. I also decided to go with RHP's from Pro-Products, Bob is going to ship them direct to AP and they are going to install the RHP's and route for the cord. Talked with Ali from AP with multiple questions and coordinaton, what awesome customer service! I will definitely go through AP in the future.

We have a Herp show this weekend and I plan to pick up as many of the other items that I am going to need, hopefully at a savings. Herpstat 2, Temp gun, substrate, hides, scale, etc... I did get a shipment of Accurite Digital Thermometers in the mail today.

I'll post some pics as the process continues ......

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

After debating back and forth on which route to go, I finally decided to get (2) of the T8's with Glass, Locks and a light for each. I also decided to go with RHP's from Pro-Products, Bob is going to ship them direct to AP and they are going to install the RHP's and route for the cord. Talked with Ali from AP with multiple questions and coordinaton, what awesome customer service! I will definitely go through AP in the future.

We have a Herp show this weekend and I plan to pick up as many of the other items that I am going to need, hopefully at a savings. Herpstat 2, Temp gun, substrate, hides, scale, etc... I did get a shipment of Accurite Digital Thermometers in the mail today.

I'll post some pics as the process continues ......

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Sounds like a plan.

Aaron,
What are your thoughts on (2) fluorescent lights in each T8, the second for either a red / blue bulb. Just a thought I had this am?

Thanks

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Aaron,
What are your thoughts on (2) fluorescent lights in each T8, the second for either a red / blue bulb. Just a thought I had this am?

Thanks

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I always get 2 lights, as they help boost air temps in the cage. That said I only run them during the day. The cage will hold in the heat until morning when they come on again.

I've never seen a blue or red fluorescent tube. You can get white or black light tubes. If you are just interested in night viewing LED strips would be your best option. They don't produce very much heat, and come in lots of colors.

Thanks, I will give that some thought!

Ok guys,
I have a new question - Whats the difference between using an Accurite Digital thermometer / hygromoter with a probe and a Xikar Digital Therm / Hygrom combo that mounts to the wall? They both measure ambient air temps and humidity. The probe for the accurite would be mounted on the wall as well right?

Xikar digital therm combo
http://www.amazon.com/Xikar-Rectangu...kar+hygrometer

I already have the accurite therms but was looking for a way to neaten up the setup.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Tom

The accurite has a 2 temperature sensors, one on a probe and one behind the screen on the unit itself.

You need a probe to measure the floor temperature of a cage when using under tank heating.

Ah, Ok that I understand. I am using an RHP from Pro Products without an uth source. Also, my thermostat is a Herpstat II. In this setup, since the probe for the Herpstat will be right at top of substrate then will I also need the accurite at substrate level as well?

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Ah, Ok that I understand. I am using an RHP from Pro Products without an uth source. Also, my thermostat is a Herpstat II. In this setup, since the probe for the Herpstat will be right at top of substrate then will I also need the accurite at substrate level as well?

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Not really

Ok, Thanks! Just wanted to double check.

I especially like the ventilation strips in the back of the enclosure!

I think, when the time comes, I'll be using Caliber IV's instead of Accurite, and an IR gun for additional temp readings. Very nice tutorial!!! :gj:

Now, to start saving my pennies...

This thread has convinced me to go with the T8! But there is something I'm unclear about (I'm sorry if it has already been asked -- I went over the entire thread and didn't see it, so hopefully it hasn't). Is half of the cage with the divider large enough for a fully grown ball python to live in? Or should I nix the divider?

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Originally Posted by sirj

This thread has convinced me to go with the T8! But there is something I'm unclear about (I'm sorry if it has already been asked -- I went over the entire thread and didn't see it, so hopefully it hasn't). Is half of the cage with the divider large enough for a fully grown ball python to live in? Or should I nix the divider?

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Yes 1/2 of a T8 is large enough for a full grown adult BP. (some very large females might need a full cage, but they are pretty rare)

Just an FYI. Ordered my T8 w/divider a little while ago and forgot to ask about the t-stat probe cutout. I called Ali from AP (just a dream to work with..we talked another 10 minutes!) to inquire what side the probe/wire channel was cut into the bottom of the enclosure. By default, the probe/wire channel is cut into the right side (looking at the enclosure from the front) BUT when she sees a divider is ordered, she makes a note to also cut a center probe channel. Though she does her utmost to ensuure this isn't missed, always a good idea to call them after you order so they don't miss the center probe cut when you need to use both sides. They can also cut center AND left sides...so you have a spot in all 3 locations (left, right, & center)...for more versatility. As of today, there is no additional charge for this and they don't plan on a charge in the near future.

I will definately be ordering more here this year.

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Originally Posted by Willie76

Just an FYI. Ordered my T8 w/divider a little while ago and forgot to ask about the t-stat probe cutout. I called Ali from AP (just a dream to work with..we talked another 10 minutes!) to inquire what side the probe/wire channel was cut into the bottom of the enclosure. By default, the probe/wire channel is cut into the right side (looking at the enclosure from the front) BUT when she sees a divider is ordered, she makes a note to also cut a center probe channel. Though she does her utmost to ensuure this isn't missed, always a good idea to call them after you order so they don't miss the center probe cut when you need to use both sides. They can also cut center AND left sides...so you have a spot in all 3 locations (left, right, & center)...for more versatility. As of today, there is no additional charge for this and they don't plan on a charge in the near future.

I will definately be ordering more here this year.

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hi,

i'm new to the forum and new to BPs. I am planning on getting my first BP (maybe 2!) at the upcoming Tinley Park show. I just ordered the T8 as well, and I am glad I read the above post , because I will have to call them myself today to make sure that center channel is cut.

Thanks for all the information.

alan

This post was a great guide. I set mine up very similar to Serpent Merchant but with RHPs instead of Flexwatt.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/03/4une5u5a.jpg

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im just gonna guess this hasnt been asked in this thread because i dont want to scan through all the responses on this thread....
i read somewhere that flexwatt needs a gap for air flow between cages when stacking or it could be hazardous?
so i was wondering if anyone does anything extra when stacking AP cages or others to prevent this?
any response will help thanks guys!

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Originally Posted by zumTod076

im just gonna guess this hasnt been asked in this thread because i dont want to scan through all the responses on this thread....
i read somewhere that flexwatt needs a gap for air flow between cages when stacking or it could be hazardous?
so i was wondering if anyone does anything extra when stacking AP cages or others to prevent this?
any response will help thanks guys!

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When regulated with a thermostat (which flexwatt must be) There is no need for an air gap as the thermostat will prevent any heat build up from occurring.

ahh okay, i shall stack away!! haha
imma screenshot this part of the thread to hold it to ya! loljk

New here...I have a BP who is out growing the ten gallon aquarium I currently have him in and was looking at one of these pvc cages to house him in. I have a few questions though. First would a animal plastics T-1 or T-3 be big enough for a full grown male? (He isn't full grown yet but I don't want to have to make another purchase. and I know the T8 is cheaper but I don't want something that big, unless I have too.) Also the room I keep him in generally stays around 68- 70 in the winter so I am guessing that I will need a RHP. How exactly does that work...will it just sit ontop of the cage or do special holes have to be cut or something? Also How exactly do keep a hot spot with that without the ambient temps being too high? I am guessing I will need a flex watt as well? Will that work with an in. of cypress mulch substrate?

Also a question not related to pvc specifically but what size repti basics hide would work for a 300g BP but allow room for not replacing it for a while.

Thanks for the help.

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Originally Posted by BPnamedOdin

New here...I have a BP who is out growing the ten gallon aquarium I currently have him in and was looking at one of these pvc cages to house him in. I have a few questions though. First would a animal plastics T-1 or T-3 be big enough for a full grown male? (He isn't full grown yet but I don't want to have to make another purchase. and I know the T8 is cheaper but I don't want something that big, unless I have too.) Also the room I keep him in generally stays around 68- 70 in the winter so I am guessing that I will need a RHP. How exactly does that work...will it just sit ontop of the cage or do special holes have to be cut or something? Also How exactly do keep a hot spot with that without the ambient temps being too high? I am guessing I will need a flex watt as well? Will that work with an in. of cypress mulch substrate?

Also a question not related to pvc specifically but what size repti basics hide would work for a 300g BP but allow room for not replacing it for a while.

Thanks for the help.

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I would certainly go with the T-8 with the pop-in/pop-out divider. You can divide the enclosure 50/50, 70/30, 80/20 and so on until they're full grown. Call Animal Plastics about RHPs or shoot them an email. They can tell you which ones they prefer and once ordered, they can be directly shipped to Animal Plastics and they will get them tapped for you. Just my own suggestion.

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Originally Posted by BPnamedOdin

New here...I have a BP who is out growing the ten gallon aquarium I currently have him in and was looking at one of these pvc cages to house him in. I have a few questions though. First would a animal plastics T-1 or T-3 be big enough for a full grown male? (He isn't full grown yet but I don't want to have to make another purchase. and I know the T8 is cheaper but I don't want something that big, unless I have too.) Also the room I keep him in generally stays around 68- 70 in the winter so I am guessing that I will need a RHP. How exactly does that work...will it just sit ontop of the cage or do special holes have to be cut or something? Also How exactly do keep a hot spot with that without the ambient temps being too high? I am guessing I will need a flex watt as well? Will that work with an in. of cypress mulch substrate?

Also a question not related to pvc specifically but what size repti basics hide would work for a 300g BP but allow room for not replacing it for a while.

Thanks for the help.

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Get a t-8 with a divider, go get another snake :)

You will just use screws to mount the RHP to the roof, inside the enclosure.

Here is a pic of my RHP's mounted in my T8.

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/...-37-53_964.jpg


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Ok, finally got my T8's setup and have a humidity question:

Cages are setup with lights and RHP's from Pro-Products, using Cypress Mulch for Bedding (roughly 2") deep. Using Herpstat 2 and digital Hygrometer/Therm combo from Xikar.

I have the probes from the Herpstat on the opposite end of the RHP, right above the bedding, mounted on the back wall. I also have the Hygrom mounted on the back wall on the cool end as well.

I put the cypress mulch in and installed the glass doors, turned on the lights, set the Herpstat 2 for 90. The probes are reading 79 - 81 on the cool end, but the humidity is reading 90% on my Xikar with an ambient of 90 also.

I don't have my Bp's in the cages yet, but am concerned about controlling the humidity. I'm not sure if I should reduce the Herpstat Temp Settings a little lower or remove some of the bedding? I don't even have water in the water dishes yet.

thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

When I was using Eco earth in my T8 I almost had too much humidity, I was getting moisture build up on the glass, I really had to let substrate dry out for a day or two. I recently switched to corrugated wrap to help with this issue. Maybe try changing your substrate?


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I just set this up and hate to have to pull it right back out. I did lower the temp on the Herpstat to 80 for the cool end and will leave the doors cracked to let some humidity out and see how much it dries out for the next few days.

Thanks for the input.

Without the snake being inside the enclosure, you could try using a hair dryer to speed up getting some of the humidity out, I had to do this a couple times.


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Well, I had reset the temp to 80 degrees before I left and just got back home. The Probes are reading 78.5 / 77.4 at the mulch, but the ambient is reading 90 and the humidity is still reading 88% and moisture on the glass, but only on the doors on the cool end. If I leave the doors slightly open, humidity will drop, but as soon as I close them up, it climbs right back up. Should I just leave the doors open and RHP's on and let mulch dry out for a day or two and then see? Put a fan on low to move some moisture out and then bring heat back up?

I have a very similar set up, but I don't know the humidity of your room. Mine T8 with bark came down to 40% so I mist every few days and it stays at about 55. I'm having trouble seeing how your herpstat probes are reading ten degrees different from a thermometer that sounds very close. Perhaps the thermometer is being cooked by the RHP, but the probes are out of its "view"? I chose to put the herpstat probes 6" up the wall. Give it a few days, taking readings all around. The lights do add to the ambient quite a bit as I found during a hot spell last week.

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Our humidity is pretty low here. The Herpstat probes are 2" from the floor of the cage and the top of the Xikar units are 2" from the ceiling. Both the probes and the Hygrom's are mounted on the back wall, within 6" of the right side wall. The RHP unit is a 65 Watt unit from Pro Products and is mounted on the left side of ceiling approx 2" from the side and is roughly 18" wide.

I am setting the Herp probe temps for the cool side and now have the temps set at 80 degrees. I am going to leave the doors partially open thru the night and see where my readings are in the am. I think it is going to take a few days to get temps / humidity dialed in. The mulch was pretty moist when I put it in the cages.

I am not sure why the temp difference between the Probes and Xikar units, however, the difference tonight is closer to about a 5 degrees.

I plan to pick up a temp gun tomorrow so I can take some accurate readings on the mulch on both ends of the cage and then I can compare readings from there.

OK, after a few days of messing around with temps and leaving the doors cracked open and closed, here is what is going on. I have the Herpstat set at 75 on each and picked up a IR temp gun from sears. I checked the following locations:

Cool side right outside of the hide - 77
Mid cage - 84
Warm end outside of the hide - 111
Under the hide on Warm end - 92

Ambient temps hovering right around 80 degrees
Humidity is still fluctuating from low 60's to 70%

I turned the mulch to bring some of the wetter mulch to the top in an effort to dry it out a bit. I feel like I am getting closer but am concerned with the temps on the warm end around the hide.

I have also noticed that the top T8's temps / humidity are staying higher than the lower cage - they are stacked together. Any thoughts on that?

Aaron, thank you so much for this thread! Right now, I have two BPs, each in a separate 40 gallon glass tank. However, I am seriously considering ditching the glass tanks for one T8 with a divider. The room temperature where the T8 will be located will be 68-72 during the winter and 78-82 during the summer. My question for you (and anybody else who has experience with the T8) is this: If I use RHPs (one for each side), will I still need Flexwatt or some other type of UTH? If you think I will need Flexwatt with the RHPs, would I be able to use Flexwatt without RHP?

You can use RHP's alone. You might even be able to just you flexwatt. Make sure that you get a fluorescent fixture for each side. That will go a long way for increasing air temps.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

You can use RHP's alone. You might even be able to just you flexwatt. Make sure that you get a fluorescent fixture for each side. That will go a long way for increasing air temps.

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To save some money, I was going to try to use some battery-operated LED disc lights that I picked up from Costco a couple of years ago. Do you really think the fluorescents make that much of a difference? If so, I'll invest the money now on them. The RHPs seem really expensive compared to the flexwatt, but I also don't want to end up spending the money on the flexwatt only to discover that they are not sufficient and I still need the RHPs. Any suggestions?

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

To save some money, I was going to try to use some battery-operated LED disc lights that I picked up from Costco a couple of years ago. Do you really think the fluorescents make that much of a difference? If so, I'll invest the money now on them. The RHPs seem really expensive compared to the flexwatt, but I also don't want to end up spending the money on the flexwatt only to discover that they are not sufficient and I still need the RHPs. Any suggestions?

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The Fluorescent lights add a significant amount of heat. I see 5+ degrees with them.

I would suggest ordering heat tape from Reptile basics, 2 feet of 12" + the cord set. Reptile Basics will do the wiring for you free of charge. This will be cheaper than buying directly from AP. Get the flexwatt, then if you need the RHP you can always add one later.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

The Fluorescent lights add a significant amount of heat. I see 5+ degrees with them.

I would suggest ordering heat tape from Reptile basics, 2 feet of 12" + the cord set. Reptile Basics will do the wiring for you free of charge. This will be cheaper than buying directly from AP. Get the flexwatt, then if you need the RHP you can always add one later.

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Wow! I just checked the heat tape at Reptile Basics. Two feet of the 12" tape plus the cord set plus the foil tape is only $23.00 total (not including S&H) whereas if I order it from Animal Plastics it is $35. Am I understanding that correctly? If so, I don't mind "wasting" the $23 if I later need to order the RHP.

Do I understand your directions correctly that when using the divider you place the flexwatt in the center of the t8 with the 2 foot running from front to back such that 6" of the flexwatt is on each side of the divider?

In your instructions, you recommend keeping the substrate as thin as possible if using heat tape. I currently use ReptiBark and would like to continue to use it (or switch to cyprus mulch) because it looks nice and does a great job with humidity. Do you think the flexwatt will be effective with, say, 1/2" of ReptiBark?

Just in case I need to go with the RHP, do you have any opinion as to whether the Pro Products is significantly better than the RHP that Reptile Basics offers?

Sorry about all the questions. I Just want to make sure I get it right this time.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Wow! I just checked the heat tape at Reptile Basics. Two feet of the 12" tape plus the cord set plus the foil tape is only $23.00 total (not including S&H) whereas if I order it from Animal Plastics it is $35. Am I understanding that correctly? If so, I don't mind "wasting" the $23 if I later need to order the RHP.

Yes. In the long run if all you need is the flexwatt it will save you a good amount of money. If you end up needing the RHP you're only out $23.

Do I understand your directions correctly that when using the divider you place the flexwatt in the center of the t8 with the 2 foot running from front to back such that 6" of the flexwatt is on each side of the divider?

Yes. I have multiple cages set up that way currently.

In your instructions, you recommend keeping the substrate as thin as possible if using heat tape. I currently use ReptiBark and would like to continue to use it (or switch to cyprus mulch) because it looks nice and does a great job with humidity. Do you think the flexwatt will be effective with, say, 1/2" of ReptiBark?

Keep in mind that AP cages are made from 1/2" thick PVC sheets. The heat tape will have to heat through that before it can even get to the substrate. My advice is keep it as thin as possible. 1/2" thick should be ok

Just in case I need to go with the RHP, do you have any opinion as to whether the Pro Products is significantly better than the RHP that Reptile Basics offers?

I use reptile basics heat panels. Personally I don't think that the pro-products panels are worth the extra cost.

Sorry about all the questions. I Just want to make sure I get it right this time.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Just in case I need to go with the RHP, do you have any opinion as to whether the Pro Products is significantly better than the RHP that Reptile Basics offers?

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I only own PP, so that's all I can speak to, and they rock. Before you buy, call both places and chat about RHPs.

So, here's my shopping list:

Already Have (and would use with a T8):

• Two adult BPs :D
• Two small ceramic water dishes
• Two Acurite Thermometers
• Four Reptile Basics large hides (two for each section of the T8 after divider is installed)
• ReptiBark

Animal Plastics

• One T8
• One T8 divider
• Two fluorescent lights
• One lock

Reptile Basics:

• Two feet of 12" inch heat tape
• THGHeat Wire/Clip/Insulator Set
• Aluminum foil tape (or, do you use the Ultra Thin Double Layer Tape?)

Does that sound right so far?

The only thing I believe I have not included is a thermostat, which leads me to the next set of questions. When I was considering the RHPs, I figured I would purchase the Herpstat 2 and use one thermostat to control each of the RHPs (so I could independently control each side of the T8). However, I am concerned that if I start out with the heat tape and end up needing to add RHPs, the Herpstat 2 will not be sufficient and that I will need a Herpstat 4. If I end up having to purchase the RHPs, can I still use the Herpstat 2 by itself? If so, how would I do that (e.g., plug one RHP into each thermostat and don't use a thermostat for the heat tape? But that would leave the heat tape unregulated. Or, would I plug both RHPs into one thermostat and plug the heat tape into the other? But if I did that, where would I put the probes (one under the heat tape and the other one one side of the tank)? Also, if I start out with the Herpstat 2, would you recommend placing just one probe in the center of the heat tape, right under the divider? Or, would you recommend using both probes under the heat tape?

Last question for now: Would you consider any other thermostats besides the Herpstats (e.g., the ones sold by Reptile Basics)?

Thanks again for all your patience with my newbie questions. I don't want to have keep fussing with getting the vivarium set-up; instead, I want to enjoy the BPs. :)

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Originally Posted by danojeno

I only own PP, so that's all I can speak to, and they rock. Before you buy, call both places and chat about RHPs.

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Thanks. I know that Animal Plastics recommends Pro Products. At this point, I'm first trying to decide whether I just try the heat tape without RHPs (which would save me about $150). I'm thinking that as we enter the summer months and the room temperature in my house is in the 78-82 range, the heat tape and fluorescent lights will be sufficient. Thus, I probably won't know until next winter (when the room temperatures in my house drop to 68-72) whether I need to add the RHPs. In one sense, that is nice because it means I don't have to spend the money on the RHPs now and will feel more comfortable buying the T8 now. How difficult is it to add the RHPs to a T8 yourself after it is all set up?

My T8 with just flexwatt on a Herpstat and fluorescent lighting stays 90 on warm side and 80-82 on cool side even in the winter months (on a second floor).

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Thanks. I know that Animal Plastics recommends Pro Products. At this point, I'm first trying to decide whether I just try the heat tape without RHPs (which would save me about $150). I'm thinking that as we enter the summer months and the room temperature in my house is in the 78-82 range, the heat tape and fluorescent lights will be sufficient. Thus, I probably won't know until next winter (when the room temperatures in my house drop to 68-72) whether I need to add the RHPs. In one sense, that is nice because it means I don't have to spend the money on the RHPs now and will feel more comfortable buying the T8 now. How difficult is it to add the RHPs to a T8 yourself after it is all set up?

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It is cleaner, but not necessary, to have AP install the RHPs. In addition to the basic install, which looks quite easy, they router channels for the power cords. This looks alot cleaner. Now, if you have 78 to 82 temps in that room, you are not going to be running squat for heat, if the fluorescents are on. The other day we had a crazy heat spell and I came home to a screaming Herpstat alarm, set to 86. Ambient room temp was 82 and the fluorescents cooked up the cage to 86. Temp gradient is easy to maintain...unless your room temp equals your ideal ambient or cool side temp. Then any heat you throw at the hot side erases the gradient. Not a big deal, but gotta watch out for the light usage when the room is warm.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

So, here's my shopping list:

Already Have (and would use with a T8):

• Two adult BPs :D
• Two small ceramic water dishes
• Two Acurite Thermometers
• Four Reptile Basics large hides (two for each section of the T8 after divider is installed)
• ReptiBark

Animal Plastics

• One T8
• One T8 divider
• Two fluorescent lights
• One lock

Reptile Basics:

• Two feet of 12" inch heat tape
• THGHeat Wire/Clip/Insulator Set
• Aluminum foil tape (or, do you use the Ultra Thin Double Layer Tape?)

Does that sound right so far?

The only thing I believe I have not included is a thermostat, which leads me to the next set of questions. When I was considering the RHPs, I figured I would purchase the Herpstat 2 and use one thermostat to control each of the RHPs (so I could independently control each side of the T8). However, I am concerned that if I start out with the heat tape and end up needing to add RHPs, the Herpstat 2 will not be sufficient and that I will need a Herpstat 4. If I end up having to purchase the RHPs, can I still use the Herpstat 2 by itself? If so, how would I do that (e.g., plug one RHP into each thermostat and don't use a thermostat for the heat tape? But that would leave the heat tape unregulated. Or, would I plug both RHPs into one thermostat and plug the heat tape into the other? But if I did that, where would I put the probes (one under the heat tape and the other one one side of the tank)? Also, if I start out with the Herpstat 2, would you recommend placing just one probe in the center of the heat tape, right under the divider? Or, would you recommend using both probes under the heat tape?

Last question for now: Would you consider any other thermostats besides the Herpstats (e.g., the ones sold by Reptile Basics)?

Thanks again for all your patience with my newbie questions. I don't want to have keep fussing with getting the vivarium set-up; instead, I want to enjoy the BPs. :)

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Your list looks good.

All 3 heat sources will need their own thermostat (or thermostat channel in the case of the herpstat 2 or 4).

You have 3 options:

1. Get a herpstat 4 from the beginning. This is as future proof as possible. If nothing else you could use the other channels to control the lights, and even musters.

2. Get a herpstat 1 now and if you need to add RHP's down the road get a herpstat 2 for them at that time as well.

3. Get a herpstat 2 from the start. If you need RHP's stop using heat tape and only the RHP's.

You cannot run heat tape without a thermostat.


I wouldn't consider other thermostats currently. The herpstat thermostat line has more features, are safer, have great support, and are a better deal $ for $. Than anything else on the market.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Willie76

My T8 with just flexwatt on a Herpstat and fluorescent lighting stays 90 on warm side and 80-82 on cool side even in the winter months (on a second floor).

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What is the room temperature (during the winter) that your T8 is in?