heat mat at 120. what do i get to turn it down?

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Originally Posted by Blender345

Honestly spell check is the last thing on my mind. I spell pretty well anyways, maybe not when I'm rushing and stressed. Should I take out the snake to make sure he's ok? Or should I not disturb him and let him relax more to get used to his home?

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A quick check to see if his belly is alright should be fine.

What kind of substrate are you using?

I checked under the hide and he seems fine. He hasn't dug into the substrate (coconut fiber) at all and I'm sure the temps on top of the substrate are fine... so where do you measure temps? under the substrate or on it? I have my thermometer against the glass under it.

He should be okay if there is a good layer of substrate above the UTH. Just get that dimmer asap though.
You should measure your hot side temp under the substrate right where the UTH is.

I personally don't like coco fibre as bedding. Too much like dirt and cleaning dirt is really no fun. I have a pacman frog and cleaning his enclosure...I just dread doing it.

Here's a great post for us newbies about how to set up a plain ol' dimmer switch: http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t.php?p=855662

Since they're inexpensive, you can get one today until you can get a thermostat. You may even decide you don't need one and just stay with the dimmer, as long as you check the temperature reading often.

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You should measure your hot side temp under the substrate right where the UTH is.

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UNDER the substrate? Not on top, where the snake will actually be lying?

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Originally Posted by Patricia

Here's a great post for us newbies about how to set up a plain ol' dimmer switch: http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t.php?p=855662

Since they're inexpensive, you can get one today until you can get a thermostat. You may even decide you don't need one and just stay with the dimmer, as long as you check the temperature reading often.

UNDER the substrate? Not on top, where the snake will actually be lying?

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Yes, you should be measuring the hottest point that they snake could reach. It should not exceed 95*F.

A UTH should never be used without some kind of control. Amazon.com has good prices, but you don't want to wait a week to get it. I have seen some post about a light dimmer, but I can't quote what I don't remember. Look for local people, a club or society, may be some one can lend you a unit.

Also, google and download Ispell. A neat spell checker for on line forms!

Where do you get off giving spelling advice? Was the question what is the best spell check program, also online is one word and you spelled forum wrong!

A light dimmer is a temporary quick fix on getting the heat mat down for a short amount of time. Light dimmers can also make your UTH go up if used for a prolonged amount of time. I would highly recommend getting a thermostat and a piece of flexwatt from here:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/Thermostats-p-1-c-250.html

Yes they are a bit expensive, but they do the job and hold temps perfect. I've used all the ones Rich sells, and have never had a problem with any of them failing or holding wrong temps. Also ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS place the probe for the UTH directly on to the UTH, NEVER on to substrate. If you do that, the UTH will heat up as high as it will have to in order for the probe to be at your set temp on the thermostat. How much substrate are you using? an inch, 2, 3. 4 inches?



Also try not to handle your new baby snake. It will stress it out and you may have problems getting it to eat. What size tank/tub do you have him/her in? I'd get the temps under control first, give it a day or two then offer your baby snake a mouse hopper or a rat fuzzie. If he/she eats it, GREAT! Leave it alone to digest it's meal and repeat the feeding again in 5 days. You will want to do this till your snake has eaten back to back 8 times with no issues before really taking it out and handling it.

Best of luck and please don't hesitate if you have any questions or problems!

First, I'm appalled that a breeder would sell a 2 week old hatchling that hasn't fed yet to someone who's never kept a ball python before, much less someone with no experience with getting a hatchling started. I really hope that you are able to get this baby feeding once you sort out the thermostat issue. It never ceases to amaze me what someone will do for a buck.

The dimmer or rheostat should be a temporary fix until you can invest in a quality thermostat, IMHO. You keep saying you don't want to spend more than $20, but I would argue that a $100 investment in a QUALITY thermostat is going to be only pennies a day when you figure the lifetime of your animal, and we owe it to our animals, when we take on the responsibility of their care to make the proper investments to insure that they remain healthy and un-injured (from burns for example) while in our care.

Edit - I measure temps on top of the substrate, where the snake is actually laying.

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Originally Posted by Kaorte

Yes, you should be measuring the hottest point that they snake could reach. It should not exceed 95*F.

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OK, thanks. But then the actual heat the snake receives would vary according to the depth and density of the substrate. Sounds like they'd be huge fluctuations. That's why we've had our probe (from the Acu-Rite) on top of the substrate, where snakey actually lies. :confused:

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Originally Posted by Patricia

OK, thanks. But then the actual heat the snake receives would vary according to the depth and density of the substrate. Sounds like they'd be huge fluctuations. That's why we've had our probe (from the Acu-Rite) on top of the substrate, where snakey actually lies. :confused:

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That's where I also measure the temps.