Need Help choosing my first BP!!!!

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Originally Posted by Wh00h0069

One thermostat for the hot side. Heat pads can get extremely hot, and could potentially kill your snake. I suggest a digital thermostat; such as, Herpstat or Johnson Controls, but they can be a little pricey. If you do not have the funds for one, you could go with a lamp dimmer; such as, a Lutron dimmer sold at Lowes. You will also need a digital thermometer to measure the temp on your hot spot. Make sure that it does not go above 95F. I set my hot spot to 92F, and I try to maintain 82F on my cool side.

Hope this helps.

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Ok. Because its my first bp I usually try to do everything right the first time so I wouldn't mind getting the more expensive thermometer as long as I know that it will not hurt the snake. I'm going to try and get it this weekend. Will keep you updated!

Finally got my Ball Python last night. Picked it up from a very friendly and helpful woman who sold it to me. I have pics as promised. She gave me a 10 gallon tank, which the bp is in, (and a 25 gal which I have to pic up later this week) under tank heating pad, water bowl, hide, heating lamp, vitamins and a feeder mouse. The tank has an analog thermo and hygo, which I am going to replace with digital one's (found one for $7 at walmart).

I have a question that maybe someone could help me with. I purchased a different substrate to line his tank with but I wanted to know if anyone recommends it. I saw it in the caresheet but was just curious to see if anyone else recommends one over another (im a newbie). Its cypress bed, which states on the back that its one of the best to use). I need to purchase a smaller water bowl and another hide. If anyone has any constructive criticism please feel free to let me know, as well as any recommendations on anything that I can improve. Thanks. Here are the pics as promised!
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2366.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2367.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2368.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2371.jpg

This is the Cypress Bed that I bought. The legend on the back says: green star:Best, Blue circle: Good
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2374.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t...6/IMG_2375.jpg

Hi,

I'd definately replace the gravel (is that what it is? ).

Is the tank raised off the UTH or sitting directly on it? Just to check it isn't hot enough to be a problem for him until the digital thermometer arrives (will you be getting a thermostat or rheostat to control the UTH as well?

I would try and get two identical hides for her that are snug and dark - the half log type don't really do the best job of making them feel secure.

How are you securing that lid by the way?

These guys are surprisingly strong and amazing escape artists. :rolleyes:

Have you read the caresheet yet and the glass tank setup sticky?


dr del

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Originally Posted by dr del

Hi,

I'd definately replace the gravel (is that what it is? ).

Is the tank raised off the UTH or sitting directly on it? Just to check it isn't hot enough to be a problem for him until the digital thermometer arrives (will you be getting a thermostat or rheostat to control the UTH as well?

I would try and get two identical hides for her that are snug and dark - the half log type don't really do the best job of making them feel secure.

How are you securing that lid by the way?

These guys are surprisingly strong and amazing escape artists. :rolleyes:

Have you read the caresheet yet and the glass tank setup sticky?


dr del

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The uth is adhered to the bottom of the tank on the left side and the tank is sitting on a flat board for circulation under the tank.
I don't have a thermostat or rehostat for the uth. Is that used to control the uth temp? The analog thermo that I have reads 80F(on the side with the uth) and 90F (on the basking side), and the humidity reads 55. I know that may not be 100% accurate but its all I have to go by for now.
I will definitely get another hide maybe tomorrow or later in the week.
The lid is secured with two lid clips (one on each side). I might purchase two more to secure all sides just to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to change the bedding to the cypress bed tonight.

Just a note, I don't know why that lady gave you vitamins for the snake, but it doesn't need them.

A thermostat or rheostat is required for use with a UTH (yes, this is what controlls the UTH). Without one, there is a high risk that your snake could get burned.

She said it was because the snake doesn't get enough natural sunlight so the vitamins would be a good supplement. I just purchased a rheostat to control the temp of the uth. So far all is well but the only thing is that its been a little over a week and it won't eat. It doesn't look like its starting to shed but I know it will be time soon within the next week or so. From what I understand, it isn't uncommon for them not to eat for up to a month. I guess I will just try every couple of days to see if he will eat.

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Originally Posted by BiggsPython

She said it was because the snake doesn't get enough natural sunlight so the vitamins would be a good supplement. I just purchased a rheostat to control the temp of the uth. So far all is well but the only thing is that its been a little over a week and it won't eat. It doesn't look like its starting to shed but I know it will be time soon within the next week or so. From what I understand, it isn't uncommon for them not to eat for up to a month. I guess I will just try every couple of days to see if he will eat.

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Ball pythons are nocturnal. They don't need natural sunlight at all whatsoever.

A week isn't really that long to go without food. I would offer food every 7 days though. The snake is on the small side. Usually a full grown BP has no problem going off feed for a few months. This one is far from full grown and could have problems if it doesn't eat regularly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BiggsPython

She said it was because the snake doesn't get enough natural sunlight so the vitamins would be a good supplement. I just purchased a rheostat to control the temp of the uth. So far all is well but the only thing is that its been a little over a week and it won't eat. It doesn't look like its starting to shed but I know it will be time soon within the next week or so. From what I understand, it isn't uncommon for them not to eat for up to a month. I guess I will just try every couple of days to see if he will eat.

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Alright, here we go.

Empty out that entire tank. Everything gone. Get rid of those dial thermometers.

Cypress bedding is a good choice in bedding, so that'll be fine.

1. That tank is too small. I'm pretty sure that's a 5 gallon tank. Go to the petstore and grab yourself a good 10 gallon. If it is a 10 gallon, then your python has outgrown it previously and will probably sit better in a 20 gallon.
2. Once you get a better enclosure, go to walmart, or target and get a ceramic dog dish (3-4 inches wide is fine) or you could look in the kitchen isle for white ceramic baking cups, which are cheaper and work just as well.
3. Throw out that log hide, and purchase two of these.
   http://www.reptilebasics.com/Small-H...x-p-16404.html
   Or something similar. Mediums are very big for a young ball python, my adult 3 1/2 foot male fits in one perfectly. Or you could look at a petstore for two identical hides, (coconut hides or rock hides are nice, but make sure they are small enough for your snake to BARELY fit).
4. Get yourself a digital hygrometer/thermometer combo. I got mine at walmart for 10 bucks or so.
5. Get 2 probe thermometers, to put under the substrate where the temperature should be 95F on the warm side and 85F on the cool side.
6. Put in the mulch, put one hide on one side, one on the other and the water bowl in the middle/towards cool side. Trash the heat lamp or put a non-heat emitting bulb in the lamp, it is useless with a UTH and will only suck humidity.
7. Decorate the cage making it cramped with lots of foliage and low branches. Cover the sides and back of the tank with dark paper of some sort for security.
8. Finally, leave the snake completely alone for a week, in the dark, in a room with no traffic. No handling, just check up on water every other day or so. Then attempt to feed him, in which get a prey item about the same thickness as the thickest point on his body.

Follow my instructions, and you will have a happy snake. Unfortunately, it may have been easier to start from scratch. The only thing you got out of this deal was a cheaper snake with a UTH. Which you may have a bit of trouble removing from that tank.. (in the future don't stick UTHs with their adhesive on tanks, it ruins them!). Sadly, this snake probably came from a petco or petsmart.
Snakes do not need UVA or UVB lighting from the sun. Vitamin supplements are useless for ball pythons and could cause more harm then good.

Good luck!

P.S. If you don't care about having a show tank, and you'd like to go for something a little less expensive, let me know, and I'll give you the rundown of a tub setup! :]

Will do. It ate finally. Left him alone for a few days and he took it as soon as it hit the floor.

Cpngrats on your bp! As far as hides go, I just picked up some wooden salad bowls at Wal-mart. They're square and pretty shallow. they came in two sizes. I just cut one of the corners off with my bandsaw, and the fit right in the corner of the enclosure.My bps love them. They can feel nice and snug, and the low ceiling makes them feel very secure. The accurite thermos from walmart sre great and have a main reading as well as a wired probe to read the other end of the tank. They run about 11 bucks. just my .02