flexwatt question

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Originally Posted by Gloryhound

Your diagram is a series connection not Parallel! I don't think it is recommended that you run flexwatt in series!

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That's what I was thinking, but I'm no electrical genius so wasn't sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gloryhound

Your diagram is a series connection not Parallel! I don't think it is recommended that you run flexwatt in series!

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the diagram is a bit confusing because it looks like the power flow is going through the flexwatt, where it really isn't.

To be in series, they would need to be linked to where the electrical flow actually had to pass through the heating elements like this:

http://www.cubeskin.com/bpnet/series.gif

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Originally Posted by ctrlfreq

the diagram is a bit confusing because it looks like the power flow is going through the flexwatt, where it really isn't.

To be in series, they would need to be linked to where the electrical flow actually had to pass through the heating elements like this:

http://www.cubeskin.com/bpnet/series.gif

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Yes this is correct looking at it. I forgot that you have to picture the outer edge paths of the flex watt as none resistive heating elements. It is the cross paths in the flex watt that would be considered the resistances in the circuit.

So, I stand corrected and the first is technically a parallel wiring!

Thanks for adding that clarity ctrlfreq.:gj:

I still do not think the first is the best method though as you would be using twice the number of connectors and those connector kits are not cheap! I've tried the solder type connections and have never been happy with the end result.

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Originally Posted by Gloryhound

I've tried the solder type connections and have never been happy with the end result.

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Soldering flexwatt is admittedly more complex than the connectors, but I prefer a well-soldered connection over a simple contact connection any day (which provides it's own resistance). There is a trick to making them work well, but once you get the technique down, it's quick and easy to do.

I just ordered a roll from Rich yesterday, so I'll put together a thread on the method I use when it comes in later this week.

I solder my own connections too using resin core solder and a Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun. You have to be quick using it, or it will separate the copper strip from the plastic, but the cheapy soldering irons don't get hot enough. I got the Weller at Home Depot for $30 I think. My father had one for a good 20-25 years, same model, and it just recently croaked. Good investment :)

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Originally Posted by SatanicIntention

You have to be quick using it, or it will separate the copper strip from the plastic, but the cheapy soldering irons don't get hot enough.

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The way I do it, I just rub a small rectangle in the plastic with the hot iron, and then rub a ball of solder around on it until it vaporizes the plastic. You can tell when this happens, because the solder will go from being a ball to pooling smoothly on the metal strip. Once thats in place, solder the wire to the strip, it will take all of about a second to adhere, and the connection will be solid.

I'd have to see that to know what you're talking about, LOL. What I do is I scrape a square of plastic off with the iron, then use these needle holders(the tips) to scrape the remaining bits of plastic off. I then clamp the wire onto the metal strip, apply the hot iron to the exposed wire that is touching the flexwatt metal strip, and then apply the solder as it heats up. Takes about 15 seconds.

Those methods are similar to what the methods I tried. They worked, but insulating them properly becomes a second issue. I just spent the money on the proper crimping tool and now I can have each piece of flex Watt done in a couple of minutes. Have not had any wasted flex watt since and they all look the same. Also if one connection ever would break I would only loose one tub instead of any further down until I get around to repairs.