Need a ittle help

Yea, the size definitely sounds too big. I have read that baby beardies that small can actually get lost in enclosures that big and forget where their food or basking spots are. In addition to everything that has already been suggested, make sure the crickets you are feeding them aren't any bigger than the distance between their (the beardie's) eyeballs. Also, and if this has been answered already forgive my blindness, what sort of substrate do you have them on? As for salads, my beardie usually gets a mixture of mustard and collard greens with butternut squash and a few other things mixed in for variety.

Well being to big depends on the individual animal. 3.5" STV is not super small, but not large, Id assume hes 8-9" total including tail. Anyway, a little small for 4 months old.

I had my 7-8" dragon in a 40B all the way to 17" (bigger tank now). But if hes not eating. Take the tank, and maybe make it instead of 36x18x18, make it 30x18x18, a little bit actually makes a difference.

Second is is the UVB a tube, or a compact. Compacts are dangerous. Also, i just have a worry about repti-glos in general, the 10.0 tube has some dangerous qualities while the 8.0 is fine. I wish there was a way to make sure its a 8.0 versus the newer 10.0s packed into the remaining 8.0 boxes and marked as 8.0. Just watch for squinting and that eye problems, sleeping alot ext.

Relocation stress is reasonable to assume, but its not seperation anxiety, these are the animals that a male will breed the female day in day out until shes egg bound and dies, or two males will bite eachothers limbs off until they cant fight any more, leaving one or two dead. (Some female pairs do work, but thats really it). So you definitally did the right thing by seperating, as by 6-8 months, they reach sexual maturity and if they are male-female, breeding too young can kill. and at sexual maturity they get fiesty and fight. So good job of preventing the problem, sorry that you were not informed that they are solitary to start with.

The new tanks and surroundings may make him worried and not eat. If he is loosing weight or weak, you can give some chicken baby food, or ground up veggies/feeders. This can be given with a dropper or needleless seringe, and is very useful to give the energy and calories to get him on track. They really like the chicken baby food too.

A vet visit would be good, Parasites can cause this, Also Bearded dragons Naturally have Coccidia in there GI tract. So stress from a move can comprimise there immune system, and let the coccidia levels skyrocket to unmanagable levels for the beardies immune system, a fecal should tell you if this is a problem.

The puffing is a sign of Agression and stress/unease, when he does that, if he seems really nervous, let him be, if hes treatening you, ignore it. Its a tough line, At the moment, id just not stress him too much.

The difference in growth rates can be attributed to dominance on any level. One gets the better basking spots, most UVB, better branch, more food, and overall dominates the other, So he doesnt grow, gets weak, Stressed, and uneasy. Submissive/dominant is natural dominance, but with beardies they are not naturally social, so your observed problems occur.

How do you measure temps, this is a big thing, Stick ons can be 20 degress off. You want to measure basking temps, so you need a digital with a probe or tempgun to take the surface temps.

Anyway, if hes loosing weight, and not doing so good, Do the following.
Give some type of food, wether squash or chicken baby food (natural if possible), or blended/ground up of his regular food (greens/veggies, you can do insects but you wont want to use the blender ever agian.)
Then keep him hydrated. Giving a daily bath in warm water (not hot, not luke warm, test on your wrist, what youd consider warm almost hotish but tolerable, use for him). Have it up to his elbows/armpits, a facecloth can be used for traction. This should make him also go poop, so just a warning. Or you can use a dropper/needless seringe and put drops of water on his nose and let him lick them off.

Try not to force food down his throat as you dont want him to choke, putting drops of the food/water on his nose/lips towards the point will make him naturally want to lick it off, and he gets the nurishment you want him too.

Just to have and read over, here are some good caresheets that really go over alot.
http://www.kakadudragons.com/caresheet/
http://www.beardietales.net/bt_caresheets.html
http://beardeddragoncaresheet.org/care-sheet.html

Update us when you get a chance, and any questions shoot away.
Ben

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Originally Posted by AshleyB

wait what!
:O
"Setup sounds fine?" did you say you had your baby beardeds in 50 GALLON TANKS! thats your problem right there, that is WAY too much space for those babies! He should also be eating way more than only 30 crickets a day, what type of salad are you offering? Iceberg is a huge no-no and could be a huge problem if thats what your feeding... what type of salad, are you dusting it with calcium and what size/how many crickets daily? how far away is the lamp from the dragons (50 gallon is tough to get heat to the bottom) what is their basking temp in YOUR tank, i saw you put 110 but where is that being measured and by what type of temp gauge are you using? do you have any photos of their set-up and them in it so we can see how small exactly your talking? 3½ is tiny.. that dragon needs to be in a 10-20 gal tank until it gets acclimated and destresses. do you have a UV bulb? if so is it on top of the tank or is it inside the tank hanging, that makes a huge difference too.

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i miss read the post, i had thought he said he split the tank it half;) Nugget would eat only 30 crickets on average, never ate much more for some reason. The thing is is that they CAN eat up to 50-100 crickets, I know on a few days he sure did!

And, A ten gallon would be impossible for a beardie. They could fit in it surely, but their basking bulb would cook the whole tank and not give him much of a cool side if any. I know my mercury bulb would.

He said he has a 8.0 reptiglo, too;)