bites but wont eat.

ok thanks, i think i will try the frozen again in about a week.

But the mice size sounds ok? Not to big?

Welcome! What works for me... get a large round container, cut holes in the lid, put the thawed mouse/ or live in the container put in enclosure.. under the heatlamp, then add the snake to it. So far this is what is working for my bp.

Also do you think you bp might be going through a shed soon? Sometimes they don't eat, or it could be winter, some refuse to eat, which I am learning all that.

I think you got great advice here!!! Again Welcome, this is an awesome site!!! :gj:

The mouse shouldn't be any bigger than the widest part of your bp. Mine is an Oct 07 baby, about 20" and he is only eating hoppers. I have seen "adult" ft mice at our petstore that were definately small enough for him. I'm pretty sure they were hoppers being sold as full sized mice though.

While some sub-adult and adult bps fast in the winter its not common for young snakes. Young snakes should feed through the winter without a problem with proper husbandry. At that age their programed to feed on whatever comes by to increase their chances at survival. In captivity thats once every 5-7 days.

sorry if someone else allready asked but is the snake strikeing at the mouse or is he biteing it and coiling it. if he is just strikeing it and ditching it that is one thing but if he is coiling it and then after ditches it that is 100% guarenteed because you are right there. my advice is to turn the lights off and close the door and come back the next day.

Is the prey item warmed up enough when you offer it to the snake?

Once its thawed out completely use a hairdryer or something that can warm the surface up, so that the snake will think its alive. Usually this does the trick if the snake was eating like this before you got it.

Let him settle for a week and try again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mooingtricycle

Is the prey item warmed up enough when you offer it to the snake?

Once its thawed out completely use a hairdryer or something that can warm the surface up, so that the snake will think its alive. Usually this does the trick if the snake was eating like this before you got it.

Let him settle for a week and try again

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A hair dryer, eh? this from some one that holds live prey while her snake eats it. I think people need to look at others prior posts before taking their advice.

And I quote:

"I personally hold the mice while the snake strikes, coils, and constricts so that i have better control of the situation, and can then, once the mouse is in the grasp of the snake, control the head until the prey perishes.

This prevents bites, and also keeps the mouse from startling the snake like it may if it were to run freely in the enclosure.
Though, keep in mind that some snakes might need to get used to a method such as this ( some get skittish if youre hanging out watching them hunt)" :slamhead:

scary

Try dipping the animal in chicken broth once its thawed. :banana:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GiNGERFiSH

A hair dryer, eh? this from some one that holds live prey while her snake eats it. I think people need to look at others prior posts before taking their advice.

And I quote:

"I personally hold the mice while the snake strikes, coils, and constricts so that i have better control of the situation, and can then, once the mouse is in the grasp of the snake, control the head until the prey perishes.

This prevents bites, and also keeps the mouse from startling the snake like it may if it were to run freely in the enclosure.
Though, keep in mind that some snakes might need to get used to a method such as this ( some get skittish if youre hanging out watching them hunt)" :slamhead:

scary

Try dipping the animal in chicken broth once its thawed. :banana:

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Hi,

The hairdryer is a well known and accepted trick for heating an F/T quickly - nothing wrong with the advice at all in my book. It also allows you to spot heat the head etc which can be usefull if they tend to grab it by the butt without the thermal clues. :giggle:

I don't see how her method of feeding live affects that at all - It's not a method I've tried but then again neither is dipping in chicken broth, which again, is a well known trick for F/T.


dr del

Everyone already gave the good advice so I just wanted to wish you luck.:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GiNGERFiSH

A hair dryer, eh? this from some one that holds live prey while her snake eats it. I think people need to look at others prior posts before taking their advice.

And I quote:

"I personally hold the mice while the snake strikes, coils, and constricts so that i have better control of the situation, and can then, once the mouse is in the grasp of the snake, control the head until the prey perishes.

This prevents bites, and also keeps the mouse from startling the snake like it may if it were to run freely in the enclosure.
Though, keep in mind that some snakes might need to get used to a method such as this ( some get skittish if youre hanging out watching them hunt)" :slamhead:

scary

Try dipping the animal in chicken broth once its thawed. :banana:

---

Yes, i do hold live prey for the snake to constrict and kill with less of a chance of a random bite happening. Im sorry you have such a problem with live feeding, or my personal method ( which, if you watch videos just about anywhere, you see people holding prey for the snakes to strike before constricting and killing.. I just happen to take that method a step further)


but really, what has a comment such as that have anything to do with anything? LOL

Are we going to troll, or are you going to add some insightful information to your post to help this person feed their snake? :rolleyes: