rack is worse than i thought

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

If you are concerned still...I wouldn't suggest attempting to change the height of the bins but rather add side rails to cover where the gap is (attach strips to the blue wood that run from to back to the front along the sides of the rack).
Hope this description is clear??

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so do you mean just closing in the sides?

We had the same freakin problem with ours....although each shelf is off by a diffrent amount...and we forgot to add a stopper before we finished the whole thing so I had to put the lids on the tubs...and now they are super tight and I rip the heck out of the wiring for the flex watt sliding them in and out...I have to re connect the wire almost daily :( Cant wait for our new rack LOL

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Originally Posted by Cl@!r3

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

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I thought the same thing... could you just ad some thin plywood to the bottom? You could paint it to match and everything?

i think it would be easier to take it apart and remake it than add a thin board to the every level. :P

i'm hoping that during the day tomorrow some more people will chime in as to whether or not they feel 3/8" is too much space.

we haven't added the flexwatt yet but we have that routed out so it shouldn't make a difference except that end of the tub won't be as low as it is now. i measured at the front 1/2 of the tub where the 11" flexwatt won't be.

i would like to use this rack... since it cost so much in materials... but i don't want my snakes escaping... that IS my number one priority!

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

i think it would be easier to take it apart and remake it than add a thin board to the every level. :P

i'm hoping that during the day tomorrow some more people will chime in as to whether or not they feel 3/8" is too much space.

we haven't added the flexwatt yet but we have that routed out so it shouldn't make a difference except that end of the tub won't be as low as it is now. i measured at the front 1/2 of the tub where the 11" flexwatt won't be.

i would like to use this rack... since it cost so much in materials... but i don't want my snakes escaping... that IS my number one priority!

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If it maxes out at 3/8" (which is smaller than half inch) you should be fine. Though snakes can fit into tight spaces they cannot flatten themselves due to the fact that they still have a backbone and ribs.

I say good to go. :rockon:

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

If it maxes out at 3/8" (which is smaller than half inch) you should be fine. Though snakes can fit into tight spaces they cannot flatten themselves due to the fact that they still have a backbone and ribs.

I say good to go. :rockon:

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I agree, 3/8ths of an inch isn't too bad. at one year old they are prob 300g ish that is chunky to fit through that gap. if you are still worried i just thought of this, that you could put layers of duct tape around the lip of the tub to deminish the gap. but i agree 3/8ths isn't bad.

~mike

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Originally Posted by Cl@!r3

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

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then i think the tub would be a little to high above the flexwatt and there wouldn't be any conductive heat through the tub.

~mike

PSSSST..Aleesha

Turn the rack on its top.
Unscrew all the shelves.
Set them directly on the tub put a playing card in between the tub and the shelf that sits on top of it one card at each corner of the tub.
Do this for each one this will give you a 1/16 of an inch clearence.
Then just screw the shelves back flip the rack back over. and presto you should have it.

I can draw it for you if you would like me to..

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Turn the rack on its top.
Unscrew all the shelves.
Set them directly on the tub put a playing card in between the tub and the shelf that sits on top of it one card at each corner of the tub.
Do this for each one this will give you a 1/16 of an inch clearence.
Then just screw the shelves back flip the rack back over. and presto you should have it.
..

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Wouldn't that mean a whole bunch of extra holes? And new holes that are awfully close to the old holes, which would jeopardize the integrity of the wood being drilled? :confuzd: Or maybe I'm just not picturing what you're saying correctly.