Should you feed bp in habitat.

Welcome to BPNet! If you haven't already run across mention of this handy dandy thing on other threads here's a pic of it. It's an Acu-Rite from WalMart (Lowe's and Home Depot sell something similar under other brand names). You'll find it in the outdoor thermeter/weather station area for about $12.00 (plus 1 AAA battery). Pop the unit into your enclosure on the cool side, lead the probe on it's long thin cord over to the warm side and tuck it inside the hide (it won't bother your snake). Push a few buttons and you'll get IN temp (what the unit itself reads aka your cool side), OUT temp (what the probe reads aka your warm side temp inside the hide) and ambient humidity. Works like a charm and is a reasonable and reliable option for a lot of us.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...g/Acu-Rite.jpg

Since correct temps and humidity are so important to BP's it's well worth getting a good handle on them.

I feed all of mine out of the enclosure. I have a couple feeding cages and that is all they are used for. I would never feed my burm in its cage and I feel safer feeding all my red-tails and balls in feeder cages. I have several rescue red-tails and the only reason I have them is because they were fed in cage and when the owner put their hand in it got bit. I subscribe to the old Pavlovs Dog theory....just my opinion and I know alot of people feed in their cages and if it works for them kool beans....

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Welcome to BPNet! If you haven't already run across mention of this handy dandy thing on other threads here's a pic of it. It's an Acu-Rite from WalMart (Lowe's and Home Depot sell something similar under other brand names). You'll find it in the outdoor thermeter/weather station area for about $12.00 (plus 1 AAA battery). Pop the unit into your enclosure on the cool side, lead the probe on it's long thin cord over to the warm side and tuck it inside the hide (it won't bother your snake). Push a few buttons and you'll get IN temp (what the unit itself reads aka your cool side), OUT temp (what the probe reads aka your warm side temp inside the hide) and ambient humidity. Works like a charm and is a reasonable and reliable option for a lot of us.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...g/Acu-Rite.jpg

Since correct temps and humidity are so important to BP's it's well worth getting a good handle on them.

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Absolute "Ditto." on that.:gj:

As far as feeding in the enclosure or in a seperate feeding tub, it's really personal choice plus what the snake will put up with. Some are very nervous and the move in and out of the feeding tub is enough to have them refusing to eat. You are also at risk for a nip moving a hungry snake or one that's just eaten and still in hunt mode (as well as any risk of triggering a regurge on a full belly snake). Feeding in the enclosure is fine. It minimizes some risks. Your snake usually will not bite your hand constantly thinking you are food if you don't smell like it's food and if your hand is in there regularily anyways changing water, removing waste product, touching the snake and removing it for handling. That doesn't mean you won't get hissed at, jabbed at or bitten. That's just part of owning a snake and it will happen (not maybe, it will and it's no big deal really just startling somewhat LOL).

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Originally Posted by racer69

i feeed both of mine in their enclosures...i use bar-b-que tongs and dangle them in by the tail and before i get them to the ground my snakes will have them...i was told it was better to feed in enclosre because of stress relations and if you reach in and take them out to put them in another enclosure to feed what's stopping them to think that everytime you go to take them out it's feeding time. i take a piece of the foil off the top that's pre-cut and place the mouse box on top of the cage for a few minutes then they start gettign active and come out of hide then i grab mouse with hand and use long tongs (prob 2 feet) to put them in....i watch untill there dead then feed the next ...

have fun MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

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Your from Omaha too!!! Sweet. If you need any fuzzy rats or large pinks let me know. I have a few more than I will ever use

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Originally Posted by Sausage

I feed my guy in his tank. As long a you put your hand in the tank for things other than feeding, it shouldn't associate your hand with feeding.

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Originally Posted by joepythons

This is not true.Once a snake smells the rodent anything can happen including you getting bitten.

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Joe, I think Sausage was saying that as long as you are caring for your snake, going into it's tank to do regular cleanings, spot cleanings, changing of the water and handling... that your snake will not associate your hand automatically with being fed.

I agree with Sausage on this.

I also feed my snakes in their enclosures. Some times they get live, sometimes f/t depending on what I have on hand at the time. They easily switch back and forth for me. My ball did go on a "if it's not live I won't eat it" strike for a few months... but now he's back to eating whatever I give him.

I don't often feed off the tongs directly... I just do a little "hey you... eat me" dance in front of whatever hide they are in and they lay it at the opening. Works well for me with all my snakes (corns, king, boas, ball)

Hope that helps. ;)

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Originally Posted by joepythons

If you remove your snake to feed it it will feel unsafe.I feed everyone of my snakes in there enclosures.Now it is true they COULD mistake your hand as food.To avoid this happening you can use tongs if your snake eats fresh killed or frozen thawed or if you feed live just place the rodent in the snakes enclosure.Now you have to watch your snake until it kills the rodent as rodents CAN kill the snake.Of course pinkies,fuzzies can not hurt your snake.

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just want to mention here... balls never need larger than a small rattie, no matter how big the ball is and adult mice, unless stressed when placing them into the enclosure aren't usually a problem at all.

the live mice i've fed sniff the snake... get comfy and seem to be very calm in the enclosure right up until the snake strikes... and then... it's over quickly.

when feeding live it's important to follow a few steps.

first, pre-scent the room by allowing the live prey to sit on or near your ball python enclosure for 15-20 minutes... or until you see your ball becoming active. then open the enclosure and gently drop your live prey into the far end (opposite end of where you snake is at the time) of the enclosure. this way... it allows the prey item to remain calm and it also allows your snake to being stalking it's prey.

as long as you follow these guidelines, chances are slim that you'll have any problems.

never leave your snake unattended with a live prey and don't leave the prey item in for longer than 30 minutes. although, if you snake is hungry and you have pre-scented the room... you should have a strike pretty quickly after releasing the prey item.

I fed in a seperate tub for years without any problems. I got that instruction from the Herp Hobby Shop in Florida, where I am from. Now, since I'm up to four adults, I place the rodent in a tub and place it in the enclosure. The rat usally settles down pretty quick, and then it is hunting time :D . I still supervise, but it seems that there there is no contact until the snake is ready, and can back out if he/she isn't comfortable. All of the adults eat quite well like this, and it seems safer. If one isn't interested, I just move the tub to the next cage.

Thanks for the help I will look into the temp gauges. I think I will try to start feeding in the enclosure. I think that I spend enough time in the enclosure that it wil not think of me as food and I am very thourough about washing my hands. Some time ago I had a rat snake that did bite quite frequently I tried to tame him down but never fail he would bite you atleast once every time you tried to handle him.

ive always fed out of the encolsure but i think today i may try a diffrent route.......