New Ball Python Owner

Here's what I would do. Get your thermometers and hygrometers and make sure all your levels are right, or adjust them if they're off.

If the snake is still not using his hides, give him something small, dark, and secure instead.

Stop handling the snake. Not just cut down, totally stop. A week later, drop an appropriately sized live prey item into the tank. You might have better luck if you feed during night time hours. If the snake does not immediately go for it, put some food that the rodent can eat in the tank, then cover the tank so the snake will not be distracted by anything outside. Check on the snake frequently to be sure the rodent hasn't started chewing on him or anything. I would personally leave the rodent in there for around an hour before taking it out if the snake still has not eaten it.

If your snake did not eat, give him another week with absolutely no unnecessary handling. Only bother him to clean his cage, give hiim water, or adjust temps/humidity/etc. Try feeding him again in the same method as before. Perhaps use a brown mouse as opposed to white.

It takes a long time for a healthy snake to starve to death, so be patient with him while he acclimates, and again, do not handle him!

Yeah, follow their advice, just be patient and dont handle him. I had the same thing with my guy when i got him, I was freaking out and joined another forum, but i dont remember which one that was (it was a year ago).
Good luck with everything.

Amy

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Originally Posted by cubano07x

As to your question about the hides and it being too open on both ends...as you can see theyre right up against the glass, so it makes as if its closed in on that end. I did a slight modification just now, where I put some folded up, black garbage bag on the side w/o the background. Now both hides appear as if they are completely closed off and more secure.

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Welcome to the forum! You've received some great advice already. I would suggest though, that even though you closed off one end of the hides, that they really are too big for him to feel secure. When he's curled up in it, does it touch him on all sides and the top? If not - it's too big. Think SNUG! Here's a couple of hides that I use:

Baby Hide - a plastic flower pot saucer from WalMart for $.47 that I soldered an entrance in. The green hide is too big for this baby and has been replaced with another saucer hide:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...ub/BabyTub.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...b/BabyTub2.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...b/PretzelA.jpg

These are the hides my juvies use. Pack of 3 bowls from Dollar Tree or Dollar General for $1 - again, entrance soldered:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...aEnclosure.jpg

You said that he's constantly roaming and looking for ways to escape - that can also be a sign that he's not feeling very secure. A content ball python will stay in its hides most of the daylight hours, only venturing out at night. Of course, there are always exceptions, but constantly roaming is not normal ball python behavior.

Once you get him some nice tight hides, and he settles into them, after a week, offer a medium live mouse, in his enclosure, leaving all furniture in there. He'll likely ambush it from his hide if your temps are correct (as outlined in previous posts).

Update : Well I've taken everything you guys have said into consideration...I just removed the carpet under the substrate. I also just changed my hides...what I did was cut out the bottom of a black, plastic jug, made a lil entrance and turned it upside down. It's not that big, and just like everyone has been saying, seems pretty snug.

Now he's exploring the 2 hides and everything else in there. So, hopefully if it was a security issue, he'll be fine now. Now all I need is a hygrometer and I'll be set.

I'll keep filling you guys in on his status and when he eats. Thanks again everyone, you guys are awesome!

No problem glad to be a help!:)

Excellent adjustments! Those hides sound much more secure for your snake and secure snakes feel safer. Safety helps encourage good feeding responses. Once you have that Acu-Rite you can get a real handle on your temps, temp gradient, etc. That's often an issue and a simple adjustment of a few degrees can make all the difference in the world to your snake (feeding response, health, etc.).

A healthy BP won't be hurt by a few weeks of refusal while you get your husbandry tweaked. Remember though that any changes tend to stress the snake, even ones done for it's own best interest, so expect it may continue to refuse until everything is stable. Once you've got it all sorted out, give the snake a good week of no handling or messing with it other than basic cage maintenance then offer it the same food in the same feeding style the pet store said it took successfully. You can always try to change prey type or feeding method later once the snake is an established eater (if it's not a prey or feeding method you are okay with). Try offering prey after dark as BP's are nocturnal so most eat more aggressively in the night hours.

Biggest thing is don't worry or panic. You aren't the first to have a snake refuse to eat, you won't be the last...the vast majority of them get going at some point and turn into good solid feeders with no long term ill effect on the snake. Most of the ill effects are on us owners fretting and pacing till the snake finally decides that eating is a good thing LOL.

Do remember though if the refusal is due to a health issue or the snake is losing weight/very small/underweight, see your herp vet as quickly as possible. Nothing can replace the benefits you get from a good ongoing relationship with an experienced herp vet. :)

Another update: Well I finally went out and bought a new hygrometer/thermometer for the tank and here are my readings:

It's in the cool side and the temp is at 70F, while my humidity is at 67%...after I spray, it spikes up pretty high (80s but then after a few hours it settles down to the normal range)

Hot side is at 87F...inside his cave, it's even higher, in the 90s...which he goes into every so often, and I've already caught him switching back and forth between the 2 hides already!

So, seems like I have all those on lock down...now I'm just crossing my fingers for when I try offering him food on Sunday!

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It's in the cool side and the temp is at 70F, while my humidity is at 67%...after I spray, it spikes up pretty high (80s but then after a few hours it settles down to the normal range)

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Temps below 70 degrees can be DEADLY to ball pythons and will initally cause them to refuse food (as yours already has) and will ultimately result in a respitory infection that, left untreated, can kill the snake.

70 is too cold. You need to raise that to at least 80, 82-84 being ideal. The warm side of the tank should be 92-94.

Using a space heater to warm up the room will be much easier than trying to tweak a glass tank to stay warm in a cold room. Good luck!

In addition to what Brad has said....if your humidity is reading 67% all the time, then there is NO need or reason to spray. You actually might want to try and bring that overall humidity down a bit. 67% is good for shedding, but not necessarily good all the time.

Especially when his temps are low......70 degrees, 67% humidity, and refusing food....that's textbook potential for RI right there...