Kali's One Week...

The whole enclosure should be between 82-84 degrees consistently - day & night. Don't worry about a hot spot. Big cages & high basking temps are the 2 biggest reasons that little healthy bloods don't eat.

I think Kara is saying no warm side at all right now...go for a homogenous 82-84 environment, both floor and ambient in a smaller tub.

Kara = :blossom:

:blossom: + :snake: = :bow:

P.S.
Kara > Cass at replying

Thank you both!

So should I go and purchase a smaller tub tonight or just try to reduce the temps I'm currently holding. Because logically if I reduce the warm side the cool side will also be reduced... possibly below 80 (not that Kali has ever been on the cool side) and risk a RI.

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Originally Posted by Kilo

Thank you both!

So should I go and purchase a smaller tub tonight or just try to reduce the temps I'm currently holding. Because logically if I reduce the warm side the cool side will also be reduced... possibly below 80 (not that Kali has ever been on the cool side) and risk a RI.

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Hmmm ...personally I wouldn't change it Kilo, if you do go out and rehouse and mess around further with the set up you may stress the snake and further lengthen the eating period.

you have just left it for a week to settle in I wouldn't then go and change anything at this stage IMO if it has only not eaten for a couple of weeks.

My bloods done really well in large enclosures and basking spots and if anything its the young female that shown a liking for it more than the adult male. Although you could reduce the temps a bit i would leave everything else.

a couple of questions:

1. When did it last eat ?
2. When did it last shed?
3. Where is the enclosure positioned ?
4. Is there much traffic going by it ?
5. What method did you try and feed ? live or F/T ?

If it is due to shed soon it may not take any food especially since it is still settling in , a week is nothing I would not worry just yet and start trying all manner of things just yet.

Give it another week at least I say ........just my opinion mind not in anyway discrediting anyone else's.

snakey

Ouch! After KLG and Cass posted I left work and went shopping for a bunch of new things! (I also have a new snake on the way from Bailey and Baileys Reptiles) I went a bought a 12qt tub to replace her 28qt tub. She is already set up and inside of it.

(I have had her for 1 1/2 weeks)

here are your anwsers:
1. not sure (never with me)
2. not sure (never with me)
3. in my room on a table
4. nope only me and not directly by it
5. I have tried live hoppers and live pinkies... both rejected

Hope that helps with the advice I hope I recieve ;)

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Originally Posted by Kilo

Ouch! After KLG and Cass posted I left work and went shopping for a bunch of new things! (I also have a new snake on the way from Bailey and Baileys Reptiles) I went a bought a 12qt tub to replace her 28qt tub. She is already set up and inside of it.

(I have had her for 1 1/2 weeks)

here are your anwsers:
1. not sure (never with me)
2. not sure (never with me)
3. in my room on a table
4. nope only me and not directly by it
5. I have tried live hoppers and live pinkies... both rejected

Hope that helps with the advice I hope I recieve ;)

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ouch indeed !

a bit of advice for future reference , whenever you buy a snake try and get at the least info such as, what it was feeding on , when it last ate and when it last shed , its all basic info anyone worth their salt should give you to provide you with information to gauge a suitable feeding time and indeed give you some idea when it will shed. Bare in mind young bloods can triple their body weight before they shed as youngsters from hatchling.

you have not even had it for 2 weeks and you have now changed the set up again which means you will need to leave her again for a week or 2 weeks to settle in again :(

I certainly would have waited longer but its your call and I wish you thevery best of luck. Try feeding F/T if its accessable to you it could be this was what it was feeding on , also with this mthod you can try leaving the mouse in over night and see if she takes it.

can you post pics of your new set up ?

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Originally Posted by KLG

The whole enclosure should be between 82-84 degrees consistently - day & night. Don't worry about a hot spot. Big cages & high basking temps are the 2 biggest reasons that little healthy bloods don't eat.

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When I first got my little Kali-Ma she too was hesitant to eat.

I followed exactly the same advice generously offereg by Kara and bam if it didn't do the trick hands down!

Snakey I will try and post pics when I get off of work today.

Smulkin, she is now housed in a 12qt tub with a water bowl, hide, newspaper substrate and an Acu-Rite. I have been taping and untaping holes to help get the humidity just perfect (it is between 55-69%!!). Aside from that the toverall temp is 83-84. I hope she eats next week!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kilo

Snakey I will try and post pics when I get off of work today.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kilo

Smulkin, she is now housed in a 12qt tub with a water bowl, hide, newspaper substrate and an Acu-Rite. I have been taping and untaping holes to help get the humidity just perfect (it is between 55-69%!!). Aside from that the toverall temp is 83-84. I hope she eats next week!

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cool , also my young female I left for 3 weeks before attempting to feed her so no need to panic its barely in the door so to speak I am sure she will come round and start feeding they are notoriously "good" eaters on the whole and its uncommon for them not to eat with patience and time.

Your set up as you were instructed now so try Kara's excellent advice and see how you go , every snake is an individual but bloods are generally good feeders once you get them started. Kara has obviously had good results with the info she has posted you as I have mine, but it wont do any good chopping and changing so please carry on as you have been instructed now that you are set up that way.

Young bloods are shy and edgy at 1st so be sure to give her space and time to settle in.

How big is the prey to snake ratio btw ?

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Originally Posted by snakey68

bloods are generally good feeders once you get them started.....

Young bloods are shy and edgy at 1st so be sure to give her space and time to settle in

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Definitely concur on both those points. I think the only snakes I have that could give my blood s arun for their money in terms of consitent hardy appetites are the carpets.

Don't stress too much she'll be fine - though I certainly understand how easy it is to become so emotionally inested with their well-being.