BP Refusing Food - I Need Feeding Help

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

That's so funny, my Borneo STP is my only pain in the butt eater in my crew. My BPs are both fantastic eaters.
Just goes to show, animals within the same species are still individuals and there are no "one size fits all" troubleshooting methods.

---

I have 2 SSTPS, 2 Borneos, 2 Bloods. My male matrix Blood python, Newman, might skip a meal while shedding. Newman is the only STP that ever skips. "Tarmac The Stupid" (ball python) won't eat if he sees me within 24hrs of feeding time. To get him to eat frozen, I had to wait until dark( when he is out of his hides prowling), slide the tub out just enough to get the rodent in, and maybe he will grab it. This takes place in total darkness so he can't see me. With live rodents, he never has to see me. Tarmac is relatively new to me so I think he just needs more socializing (obviously). I think he is also more nervous by nature than other snakes of his kind. He'll come around, just like the OPs snake will. I feel I should feed the animals what they want when they getting used to their new life, rather than forcing something they aren't sure about.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I can also attest to BPs being PITAs to feed...:rolleyes:

---

yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

---

Same here...to be honest, I'm really mystified at how popular they are, in spite of all the demanding requirements & "head games" they appear to play. So many kinds of
snakes that are just as docile and SO much easier & more fun to live with. I guess it's a triumph of skilled marketing...:rolleyes:

I started my collection 3 years ago so the majority are between 2 - 3 years of age, with a recently acquired juvenile of about 5 mos., and a couple that were acquired as adults. MOST of mine eat f/t, with a couple that came to me eating live and have resisted making the change to f/t.
In my limited experience I have found that USUALLY youngsters eat better and more consistently than adults. There may be random circumstances, such as shipping, shedding, etc. that will put the young ones off for a bit, but for the most part, if temps, humidity and habitat requirements are met, they might go off for a couple weeks to a month, but then get themselves on track.
THIS year however, starting in late fall/early winter, almost all of my adults are off. Some have only had a couple meals since early November and even my most dependable eaters are skipping meals. Since my husbandry hasn't changed, I'm assuming it's hormonal , esp. as a few of them are JUST starting to be a bit more animated and show some of their old interest when I've got the hair dryer working on warming up f/t.
Very generally, I find that offering live will often prompt one that's off their food to strike/wrap, and feed. The downside of that though, is I would prefer NOT to transition those that previously took f/t to feed on live only. I no longer worry the same way I used to, I have reached the point in which, if the snake seems to be in good condition and refuses food when offered, I just wait 10 - 14 days and try again. I look for them to be "cruising" in their bins, as that's often a sign that they're hunting, so laying with their head out of their hide is an indicator that they might be at least THINKING about hunting.
It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it. If they show NO interest, no tongue flicking at the prey etc., they probably aren't going to take it. If I'm not sure, I usually heat up one less than I think I need so am not discarding rats all the time.
Hang in there, if your conditions are right, and if your snake was eating well before, it's probably just taking a break. Easier said than done, but TRY not to worry, ball pythons can be frustrating in the feeding department, but will usually get around to eating whey THEY feel like it.

I started my collection 3 years ago so the majority are between 2 - 3 years of age, with a recently acquired juvenile of about 5 mos., and a couple that were acquired as adults.&nbsp; MOST of mine eat f/t, with a couple that came to me eating live and have resisted making the change to f/t.<br>In my limited experience I have found that USUALLY youngsters eat better and more consistently than adults. There may be random circumstances, such as shipping, shedding, etc. that will put the young ones off for a bit, but for the most part, if temps, humidity and habitat requirements are met, they might go off for a couple weeks to a month, but then get themselves on track.<br>THIS year however,&nbsp; starting in late fall/early winter, almost all of my adults are off. Some have only had a couple meals since early November and even my most dependable eaters are skipping meals.&nbsp; Since my husbandry hasn't changed, I'm assuming it's hormonal , esp. as a few of them are JUST starting to be a bit more animated and show some of their old interest when I've got the hair dryer working on warming up f/t.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>Very generally, I find that offering live will often prompt one that's off their food to strike/wrap, and feed.&nbsp; The downside of that though, is I would prefer NOT to transition those that previously took f/t to feed on live only.&nbsp; I no longer worry the same way I used to, I have reached the point in which, if the snake seems to be in good condition and refuses food when offered, I just wait 10 - 14 days and try again.&nbsp; &nbsp;I look for them to be "cruising" in their bins, as that's often a sign that they're hunting, so laying with their head out of their hide is an indicator that they might be at least THINKING about hunting.&nbsp;<br>It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it.&nbsp; If they show NO interest, no tongue flicking at the prey etc., they probably aren't going to take it. If I'm not sure, I usually heat up one less than I think I need so am not discarding rats all the time.&nbsp;<br>Hang in there, if your conditions are right, and if your snake was eating well before, it's probably just taking a break.&nbsp; Easier said than done, but TRY not to worry, ball pythons can be frustrating in the feeding department, but will usually get around to eating whey THEY feel like it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by B.P.'s 4me

s
It's been my experience that if they act like they're afraid of the prey they probably aren't going to take it.

---

This right here has been the story of my 3 year old male BP who is such a finicky eater. I can't remember the last time he's struck at his food. It's always a drop in front of his hide and come back the next day to check if it's gone. I'm wondering if there's a reason why they would be scared of the prey and if there is a better way of presenting it? I've always felt if my BP was cruising when I'm ready to present food then it's a wasted effort because he wont take it outside of his hide. Now, after several rejections inside his hide, I'm at a loss. Especially after he's cruising the next night after refusal. You can't win w/ these animals ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Same here...to be honest, I'm really mystified at how popular they are, in spite of all the demanding requirements & "head games" they appear to play. So many kinds of
snakes that are just as docile and SO much easier & more fun to live with. I guess it's a triumph of skilled marketing...:rolleyes:

---

I think BP's would make the best pet snake if only their eating habits are like a colubrid. The husbandry is not hard once they are set and confirmed, they are the perfect size, have tons of morphs, and so docile. I would love to keep more bp's of every morph imaginable (Or however much space is allowed lol) only if they eat as often and as easily as a colubrid, because a big part of pet ownership enjoyment for me is to watch them eat. Missing 2 or 3 meals is fine but months on end? Or not eating because of fur color, prey preference... Etc.. Like cmon, really? Oh well. That is all wishful thinking anyway. They are what they are, and that is fine.

OP, the previous posts provide good advice to you. If it still won't eat for 2-3 weeks, look for Deb's 101 hatching sticky thread in the forums. Follow her instructions and it should work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

yep, that’s why I have no interest in ever getting another BP. That and they are a pet rock ;)

---

They’re only boring for boring people

:)

You put a few hides in , loads of branches / bark pieces and some fake foliage and they’ll be climbing around every evening .

If I had a dollar for all the posts I’ve seen over the years saying .. “ he’s got a lovely plastic tub , a hide and always has a bowl of fresh water YET he doesn’t do anything apart from lie around or sleeps in his hide .


Aghhhhh !!!!

Oh and fussy / non feeders ... look up the hairdryer trick ..

I’ve had 3 people thank me by pm in the last week alone ..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zincubus

They’re only boring for boring people

:)

You put a few hides in , loads of branches / bark pieces and some fake foliage and they’ll be climbing around every evening .

If I had a dollar for all the posts I’ve seen over the years saying .. “ he’s got a lovely plastic tub , a hide and always has a bowl of fresh water YET he doesn’t do anything apart from lie around or sleeps in his hide .


Aghhhhh !!!!

Oh and fussy / non feeders ... look up the hairdryer trick ..

I’ve had 3 people thank me by pm in the last week alone ..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

Unfortunately I have all that (a nice large AP enclosure, several hides, branches foliage and a large grapevine structure for him to climb on) and he'll come out of his hide late at night but during the day he's tucked away in his hide which is a good thing. I prefer my BOA who is perched out and about at reasonable times to view.

And I know you preach the hairdryer trick which I use 'every time' but that doesn't always fix the fussiest of eaters. It is what it is.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Unfortunately I have all that (a nice large AP enclosure, several hides, branches foliage and a large grapevine structure for him to climb on) and he'll come out of his hide late at night but during the day he's tucked away in his hide which is a good thing. I prefer my BOA who is perched out and about at reasonable times to view.

And I know you preach the hairdryer trick which I use 'every time' but that doesn't always fix the fussiest of eaters. It is what it is.

---

Well there’s your problem.. Royal / Ball pythons are basically nocturnal animals..


The hairdryer trick seems to work 95% of the time to be fair .. and I’ll take that success rate any day of the week .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro