Not eating

Another thing I noticed with my boy Cosmo...

He seems to be more eager to accept prey that's a bit cooler than what all my other snakes seem to like.
He's backed off a few times when the prey was really good and warm. This was back when he was still on pinkies, so since correcting I got to troubleshooting and wondered if the prey was actually starting to cook since they were tiny pinkies. I honestly don't know though. And that's just limited to my one snake.

Not sure if this helps you out at all, but I figured it was worth mentioning.

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Originally Posted by Craiga 01453

Another thing I noticed with my boy Cosmo...

He seems to be more eager to accept prey that's a bit cooler than what all my other snakes seem to like.
He's backed off a few times when the prey was really good and warm. This was back when he was still on pinkies, so since correcting I got to troubleshooting and wondered if the prey was actually starting to cook since they were tiny pinkies. I honestly don't know though. And that's just limited to my one snake.

Not sure if this helps you out at all, but I figured it was worth mentioning.

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Yea, I leave the mouse in for quite a while so it cools off too :)

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Never had a hoggie before, they are cute though. I have read that it is common for male hoggies to be difficult feeders. Some breeders and keepers would have a Pac man frog or lizard and scent the prey by rubbing it against their back. They claim to have success with that and then transition back to no-scenting over time. Not saying you should go this route yet, but it is an option should he continue to refuse food, so don't give up! The worry and anxiety of trying to feed a baby snake... It will be all worth the hard work and patience when he eats for you.

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

Never had a hoggie before, they are cute though. I have read that it is common for male hoggies to be difficult feeders. Some breeders and keepers would have a Pac man frog or lizard and scent the prey by rubbing it against their back. They claim to have success with that and then transition back to no-scenting over time. Not saying you should go this route yet, but it is an option should he continue to refuse food, so don't give up! The worry and anxiety of trying to feed a baby snake... It will be all worth the hard work and patience when he eats for you.

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Thank u! Yea, it's very stressful [emoji23]

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Male are typically more difficult than females when it comes to food, and it's true until they get some size tongue feeding does not work leaving the prey in the enclosure until the morning works best.

You don't really have to worry about the prey being warm, I feed all mine adults, juvies and hatchlings without re-heating the prey and they don't care.

Right now being a male and with the weather changing (cold, low pressure etc) feeding can become more difficult.

If your hognose was well started meaning at least 10 unscented meals and or 10 f/t meals you should be able to get him back on food.

In the event you do not y ou can use one of the following scent (I do not recommend toad or lizard since they can carry crypto which is fetal)

In order of what works for me

Vienna Sausage
Tuna
Hard Boil egg, you can even leave a piece in the cage
Chicken water from chicken in a can
Anchovies
Sardines

Did you mention that you have the RUB dimly lit/ covered? I'm wondering if your hoggie might be taking that as another seasonal cue to attempt winter brumation. My guys are strong seasonal feeders despite my best efforts and it seems to be the reduced natural light that cues them. Maybe try a convincing day-type light on a timer for 12 hours each day? In the past I worried so much about my guys (male and female) but now, my third season in, I just offer infrequently while they are refusing and when it's "springtime" for them (usually April) they just start ravenously eating again like before. Good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stewart_Reptiles

Male are typically more difficult than females when it comes to food, and it's true until they get some size tongue feeding does not work leaving the prey in the enclosure until the morning works best.

You don't really have to worry about the prey being warm, I feed all mine adults, juvies and hatchlings without re-heating the prey and they don't care.

Right now being a male and with the weather changing (cold, low pressure etc) feeding can become more difficult.

If your hognose was well started meaning at least 10 unscented meals and or 10 f/t meals you should be able to get him back on food.

In the event you do not y ou can use one of the following scent (I do not recommend toad or lizard since they can carry crypto which is fetal)

In order of what works for me

Vienna Sausage
Tuna
Hard Boil egg, you can even leave a piece in the cage
Chicken water from chicken in a can
Anchovies
Sardines

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Thank u! What time in the evening is it best to put the mouse in?

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