New Snek Momma

heat lamp connected to cold control device, hung about 10 inches from the top of the tank (For safety). the probe is under it, near the top of the cage, set to 80. so when its 80 at the top of her tank it shuts off.

for humidity i only had a large water bowl and a vinyl covering across the top of the tank, it worked really well to keep the moisture in, it actually would creep to 70 if i didnt keep an eye on it. but i did cut a big hole under the lamp for the heat to get through, so now its watching tank settings.

Update: Well in the early evening I offered Luna an adult prekilled prey and she took it. It took a bit but she did! She still coiled around it but i assume thats a normal thing.

So thats 2 feedings down if we count the fuzzy she ate earlier!

The best way I’ve found to adjust ambient temps using a heat lamp or CHE is just adjusting how far off the screen they sit. Placed right on the screen, ambient temps are hotter. Raised higher, they lower. You’ll just have to mess with it a bit. I have five snakes currently and they’re all different eaters. One will only eat in its enclosure from tongs, one will only eat in a tub without tongs (I place the small tub back in the enclosure after and let him move out when he’s ready, I don’t handle him), I have one that will only eat if I’m holding her and hand feed her feeder, one that will eat anywhere and only misses a meal when in shed but she will hold her feeder and bonk her nose on it for ten minutes before eating then she will only eat ass these. It doesn’t matter or she grabs it face first, when it’s time to eat it’s always ass first. My last ensue is a rescue and we haven’t learned his habits yet. My point being you’ll figure out what Luna likes. It never hurts to ask the breeder if he or she noticed any little habits she had. Also, I’ve never heard of braining working. I’ve heard of it multiple times but I personally have never heard a success story from it. I did have a personal friend here have success letting a frozen thawed rat pup defrost in a bag of used rat bedding, shaking it around ever ten minutes or so, and blasting it with a hair dryer before feeding. Also, I love BEL’s and would love to see pics!


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what site/program do you all use to host images?

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Originally Posted by Neiska

what site/program do you all use to host images?

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I use the Tapatalk app and just upload directly.


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but im on my desktop. ill use the one i normally use -

https://ibb.co/sKHsKVn
https://ibb.co/Zhn207w
https://ibb.co/QMDgFqb
https://ibb.co/C019vPz

but heres a few pics of her, and heres my terrarium setup -

https://ibb.co/kMhzYPW

She is absolutely beautiful! Can’t wait to follow her story end watch her grow!


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Just chiming in to say that a really easy way to control the output of heat lamps is a dimmer switch. I buy the Flukers domes with a dimmer built in and use 75 watt infrared bulbs. I use this in conjunction with a UTH on the hot end to achieve my gradient. UTH is on a thermostat and I dim or turn up the lamp as needed.

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcos...mp-with-dimmer

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Originally Posted by Lusiphera

The best way I’ve found to adjust ambient temps using a heat lamp or CHE is just adjusting how far off the screen they sit. Placed right on the screen, ambient temps are hotter. Raised higher, they lower. You’ll just have to mess with it a bit.

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This doesn't help with the output of heat. It just throws max heat all the time. Using a thermostat is the only reliable way to go.
Using your method the temps will fluctuate as temps in the room fluctuate.
Not to mention, it's TONS of wasted heat and electricity.

The lamp belongs on the screen, controlled by a tstat. Otherwise the heat is escaping rather than being directed into the enclosure.

Bottom line: ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

This doesn't help with the output of heat. It just throws max heat all the time. Using a thermostat is the only reliable way to go.
Using your method the temps will fluctuate as temps in the room fluctuate.
Not to mention, it's TONS of wasted heat and electricity.

The lamp belongs on the screen, controlled by a tstat. Otherwise the heat is escaping rather than being directed into the enclosure.

Bottom line: ALL HEAT SOURCES SHOULD BE REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT.

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When I used this method I didn’t have temps fluctuate, I kept / keep foil wrapped cardstock on top of the screen lid to keep heat in and the screen guard surrounding the lamp was also wrapped. Of course some heat escaped between the lamp and the screen when I had it raised but not enough to fluctuate temps, checking twice daily. I don’t need to raise the lamps anymore because I use thermostats and dimmers but this is what I found most useful prior. I definitely agree all heat sources should have thermostats. It’s just too simple a solution and too necessary for the animals not to use and there’s an option for every budget but in the time between ordering and receiving mine, this is what worked for me. You guys had already handled all that in the post but I guess I should have clarified I meant in the mean time. :)


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