Adopted an unkown ball python

Anyways he/she seems to be doing fine for now will save up the $$ for the vet as this was not a planned thing and i want to be sure its good for my concience aha heres a pick of him before his 2nd meal.
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...36bf2220b8.png

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Originally Posted by Nick6969

I have the heat mat and a 150watt light bcause the tank is hig a have a thermometer light is on 12/12 cycle i spray it with a mist bottle 2 times a day his bowl is a gog bowl that i taped to the bottom making sure no tape could touche the snake of course he ate 2 times i feed him once then 12 days after the meals are small rats petshop dnt have bigger. His shed went fine, top of his head looks dry when lookin at him one way and normal when you look. Closer its weird, as for the morph im pretty sure its a normal one but was curious to know

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If you have ANY tape inside the enclosure, remove it IMMEDIATELY. Even if you think the snake cannot get to it. They are very capable of moving things and getting into places you wouldn't expect.

Do a Google search about snakes and tape. Nothing good comes of it and there are much better solutions for inside a snake cage if you really need something to be stuck in place. (For example, hot glue can be used to secure thermometer probes to the glass and is relatively easy to remove down the road)

I am confused as to why you want to tape the water bowl to the bottom of the cage, though. Most dog bowls are heavy enough that they don't get dumped by the snake or have a wide enough base for the same reason. Can you clarify why it needs to be secured like that? (I would think that makes it difficult to remove to clean the bowl regularly)

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Originally Posted by pretends2bnormal

If you have ANY tape inside the enclosure, remove it IMMEDIATELY. Even if you think the snake cannot get to it. They are very capable of moving things and getting into places you wouldn't expect.

Do a Google search about snakes and tape. Nothing good comes of it and there are much better solutions for inside a snake cage if you really need something to be stuck in place. (For example, hot glue can be used to secure thermometer probes to the glass and is relatively easy to remove down the road)

I am confused as to why you want to tape the water bowl to the bottom of the cage, though. Most dog bowls are heavy enough that they don't get dumped by the snake or have a wide enough base for the same reason. Can you clarify why it needs to be secured like that? (I would think that makes it difficult to remove to clean the bowl regularly)

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I was just about to suggest the removal of the tape..pretend2bnormal...i agree with everything you said... to be honest it is not that serious for the water bowl to be secure over the added risk of the tape getting stuck on some scales. if it has strong adhesive (like duct tape or gorilla tape)... it may require another vet visit and cause some serious damage. I am going to get a glue gun & do my water bowls now that you mentioned it... Thanks for the tip!
:D
I would look up the care sheet forum and re-read some husbandry rules to keep ya BP safe, happy, and healthy, Good luck again, keep us updated on his /her progress.

:gj:

Do you have a thermostat connected to the heat mat? If not, you should probably unplug it until you get one. They can get deadly hot without a thermostat to regulate them.

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Originally Posted by Nick6969

And also the substrate is those wood chunks or whatever dnt know the name but know its better than aspen as they swollow aspen and this they dont also with some dirt/sand looking thing i mixed with it to keep humidity i also have a curiosity question for a vet her in canada how much would it cost to get it sexed and evaluated health side

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The substrate appears to be "orchid bark" which is a good product to use with BPs (one of various options, anyway) as it holds humidity, gives traction & can
easily be spot-cleaned (also looks nice). You'll need to spray it from time to time (w/ water) to keep in the humidity, especially since using UTH heat will dry it out.

Don't know that any Canadian vets are reading your post here, you'd do better (get an answer faster as to the cost of health check-up & sexing BP) by making a few
calls to Canadian vets who work often with exotics, & snakes in particular. There are many things you can & should observe before you visit a vet anyway...they don't
have lots of time & it helps to share observations: listen to their breathing (any whistling? wheezing? squeaking sounds?); any abnormal lumps on the snake's body?
(snake's body should be symmetrical, ie. both sides the same...when they move in a serpentine fashion, do any areas appear caved-in? aka "concave"? that can be
broken ribs); any stuck "shed"skin including eye caps, tail tip, nostrils, cloaca (aka "vent")? any signs of blood or diarrhea? You'll probably want to wait & let the vet
check inside the mouth.

I have good news i made him a hide on the colder side have a thermometer for ambient temp and humidity which was at 39 very low!!!! I brought it up to 90 kept going down after a lot of misting now seems to be at 55 and drops at max 45 by morning

fed him today he seem alright though the rats are pretty small because pet shop never have big ones so i bought a male and female will make my own rats

had it for a more or less now and since i live in a bong shop well the old owner came by and recognized it

said he used to feed it 3 hamsters or small gerbals every two weeks and hesitated betweed 6/7 years old for the age now all i need to do is weigh it