5 years old male not eating

Deborah stated the ideal conditions. Of course in the wild nothing is ideal and there are lots of fluctuations and variations in the environment. This is one of the reasons why specimens in captivity generally live longer because you can simulate ideal conditions and keep it constant.

Hopefully he resumes feeding given some time to adjust. Good luck :gj:

I would suggest giving him another hide ( and maybe reducing the size of the one you have? It looks kinda big to me, but I could be looking at it wrong. A hide that's two big will make them insecure. I've heard you can add moss to make it more snug). I would also suggest putting paper or card of some sort on 3 of the tank walls; that will also stress him out less.

He fits in the hide pretty nicely and seems to like it, Funny you mention the sides I just covered them up and when I get him in the bigger habitat I am going to Paint the side black with aquarium paint I will be getting him 2 hides the same so that he will be happy on both sides.

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Originally Posted by Capt.Squishy

Thank you for your help, How do you keep your temp from fluctuating to only 2 degrees- the Tstat controller has a 4 degree variable before it kicks on in the hide and on the cool side the ambient air temp outside the habitat is 80 degrees how do I get my snakes habitat to 78/80 when my house doesn't even get that cool on average? In their natural environment the fluctuations cannot be that minimal to be only 2 degrees off. My herp and breeder recommends to try to keep near those temps but +/- a couple degrees is normal and would also happen in their native environment, that is what we are trying to do for them correct? Trying to mimic their natural home is the goal. Please don't take my questions as any kind of disrespect or anything just trying to understand. Thanks for feedback.

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get a proportional thermostat rather than an on/off thermostat. costs a little more but worth it. I use a herpstat and Ive only noticed temp swings up to .3 degrees.