New to the game....

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Originally Posted by babytigger1113

The hide is out right now because he was in it but allowed me to take em out and handle home for about 10 min. I’ll post pics of his home and everything else. The numbers are a little low because the door was open but they are usually between 83-84 degrees and about 55% humidity https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...4fa58d32b5.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...2a7d28003a.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...7f513dba42.jpg


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I would put that CHE over on one side of the tank, assuming that's your only heat source. I would give him another identical hide, that way he won't have to choose security over thermoregulation. Blacking out the sides with poster board will help your snake feel more secure, just make sure there isn't any tape on the inside of the enclosure. Ditch the carpet, and I'd get some fake plants to fill up some of that empty space.

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

welcome to the forum, and congrats on your new lil baby!!!
:welcome:

be sure to bump up the humidity to about 70% so the snake can work off whatever skin is left on their own. it's best to get humidity and ambient temperature readings from a digital thermometer/hygrometer like this one: AcuRite from WalMart. they're very reliable and affordable.

as for age: you can only guess based on weight and body condition. it's important to weigh your snake and keep track as a snake's weight is the easiest way to determine overall health (besides looking at them lol).

for feeding: follow this nifty chart which grows with the weight of your beep.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...%2F98qfzDH.png

feel free to ask any questions you have, and don't forget to browse the husbandry section to learn more about a ball python's heat and humidity needs as well as the best way to hit those temperatures, and the care sheets so you can learn more about your new buddy!

we're here to help. :)

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^^^^Exactly this^^^^

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Originally Posted by babytigger1113

They said it’s on live hoppers


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Hoppers are what hatchlings have straight out of the egg for their first 3-5 meals. After that they are on small mice or rat fuzzies. I'd suggest following the feeding chart that was already provided as that will be your best guide.

It's important to point out that you shouldn't be handling your new bp until he/she has eaten three consecutive meals for you. You need to allow them to fully acclimate to their environment before getting in the habit of handling. Patience is key :) We promise it will all be worth it in the end!

I agree with moving the CHE so you can provide a better heat gradient along with matching hides. Just make sure they are low and snug fitting like a turtle shell and only have one opening. Definitely more clutter and cover with either more plants, hanging vines or branches. Just remember that they need a lot of cover in their surroundings to feel secure as they are often preyed from above. You'd want their travel from point A to point B to feel like a safe, sheltered one.

I recommend getting a temp gun so you have an accurate way to take surface temperatures. I also vote ditching the reptile carpet as general maintenance is more hassle than it's worth, and could breed bacteria if you're not on point with cleaning. Consider coco husk or coco chip substrate instead. Looks nicer, smells nicer and holds humidity better.

He has felt comfortable with handling. He has been rubbing on my shirt and arm to scratch off skin. Just weighed him today and he’s 124 grams. They didn’t tell me when they last fed him other than “a couple days ago” as of Monday April 2nd. I plan on attempting a feeding tomorrow (Friday) to see if he will take a fuzzy or small mouse (according to the chart). Surprisingly, I put his hide back in and he has been preferring to sleep in a corner in the open. He has a heat mat under the tank on 1 end of it. Back to feeding: he seems light for his size. Is it possible he’s still really young? Or is it possible he was misfed/underfed?


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Originally Posted by babytigger1113

He has felt comfortable with handling. He has been rubbing on my shirt and arm to scratch off skin. Just weighed him today and he’s 124 grams. They didn’t tell me when they last fed him other than “a couple days ago” as of Monday April 2nd. I plan on attempting a feeding tomorrow (Friday) to see if he will take a fuzzy or small mouse (according to the chart). Surprisingly, I put his hide back in and he has been preferring to sleep in a corner in the open. He has a heat mat under the tank on 1 end of it. Back to feeding: he seems light for his size. Is it possible he’s still really young? Or is it possible he was misfed/underfed?


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I would recommend waiting on offering food until the Monday so it’s been a full week since he ate, gives him more time to settle and for you to make husbandry adjustments. Remember once he eats not to handle him for 48 hours to allow him to digest.

I still strongly advise for you to avoid handling until he proves to be a consistent eater despite how comfortable he may appear to be. Ball pythons in general are pretty chill but they can stress easily with being handled too soon or often which could lead to food refusals. The same for offering meals too soon. While some ball pythons may not mind handling sooner than others, why not increase your chances of success instead of taking a risk? I know it’s awful tempting, especially when getting your first snake is super exciting and they are too darn cute to resist, but for their sake it’s better to wait. Besides, bps can live up to 30 years so you’ll have all the time later to hang out with them :) let’s just focus on establishment first!

Is your heat mat also on a thermostat? Keep in mind all heat sources must be regulated. I will again recommend a temp gun so you can make sure your hot spot is optimal and not too hot (92F is generally the hottest temp you’d want your bp to touch). Remember you’d need to take the temperature under the reptile carpet and directly on the glass floor as it’s possible your bp could get under the carpet. Another reason why Reptile carpet isn’t ideal vs actual substrate. What kind of hide are you using and where is it located? If it’s directly over your heatpad it’s possible it could be too hot depending what the surface temp is.

As for age it’s honestly hard to say since it’s likely he was underfed at the pet shop. He could be older than he looks or he could actually be young since bps grow according to what they are fed. For example my male bp was 9 months old and weighed 126 grams when I first got him and he was on small mice prior.

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Originally Posted by MissterDog

I would recommend waiting on offering food until the Monday so it’s been a full week since he ate, gives him more time to settle and for you to make husbandry adjustments. Remember once he eats not to handle him for 48 hours to allow him to digest.

I still strongly advise for you to avoid handling until he proves to be a consistent eater despite how comfortable he may appear to be. Ball pythons in general are pretty chill but they can stress easily with being handled too soon or often which could lead to food refusals. The same for offering meals too soon. While some ball pythons may not mind handling sooner than others, why not increase your chances of success instead of taking a risk? I know it’s awful tempting, especially when getting your first snake is super exciting and they are too darn cute to resist, but for their sake it’s better to wait. Besides, bps can live up to 30 years so you’ll have all the time later to hang out with them :) let’s just focus on establishment first!

Is your heat mat also on a thermostat? Keep in mind all heat sources must be regulated. I will again recommend a temp gun so you can make sure your hot spot is optimal and not too hot (92F is generally the hottest temp you’d want your bp to touch). Remember you’d need to take the temperature under the reptile carpet and directly on the glass floor as it’s possible your bp could get under the carpet. Another reason why Reptile carpet isn’t ideal vs actual substrate. What kind of hide are you using and where is it located? If it’s directly over your heatpad it’s possible it could be too hot depending what the surface temp is.

As for age it’s honestly hard to say since it’s likely he was underfed at the pet shop. He could be older than he looks or he could actually be young since bps grow according to what they are fed. For example my male bp was 9 months old and weighed 126 grams when I first got him and he was on small mice prior.

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Currently he does like to use his dragon head hide. It’s open in the front, back and bottom. I had a large rock hide and he wasn’t fond of it. The dragon head is on the opposite side of the heat mat. I do have a heat gun. It’s also reading 87 as both thermometers are reading. I will hold off on further handling. I added a small bowl to the tank to increase the humidity to attempt to assist in shedding more. He’s about half way done now. He was in bad shape at the pet store. He wasn’t shedding properly as I saw him a week before I bought him and he looked almost the same way when I bought him. As I said, once I got him in the tank with a minimum of 75 degrees, he started really shedding better. Based on his weight, I was looking into at least a fuzzy. If he does well with that, should I continue with fuzzies or should I up him to a small mouse? The chart recommends either up to 200 grams


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Originally Posted by babytigger1113

Currently he does like to use his dragon head hide. It’s open in the front, back and bottom. I had a large rock hide and he wasn’t fond of it. The dragon head is on the opposite side of the heat mat. I do have a heat gun. It’s also reading 87 as both thermometers are reading. I will hold off on further handling. I added a small bowl to the tank to increase the humidity to attempt to assist in shedding more. He’s about half way done now. He was in bad shape at the pet store. He wasn’t shedding properly as I saw him a week before I bought him and he looked almost the same way when I bought him. As I said, once I got him in the tank with a minimum of 75 degrees, he started really shedding better. Based on his weight, I was looking into at least a fuzzy. If he does well with that, should I continue with fuzzies or should I up him to a small mouse? The chart recommends either up to 200 grams


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Mouse fuzzies right? Ball Pythons eat hoppers right out of the egg, mouse fuzzies are too small for them. How much does he weigh? An open hide like that doesn't sound like the best, you want a snug dark hide for them. I use the exo terra cave hides and those Reptile Basics hides.

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Originally Posted by MD_Pythons

Mouse fuzzies right? Ball Pythons eat hoppers right out of the egg, mouse fuzzies are too small for them. How much does he weigh? An open hide like that doesn't sound like the best, you want a snug dark hide for them. I use the exo terra cave hides and those Reptile Basics hides.

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He weighed in this evening at 124 grams. Also noted, he’s about 22” (give or take. He didn’t want to be completely straight lol)


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It wouldn’t hurt to try with rat fuzzies and see how that goes. But you would be better offering a small mouse first to stick with that’s familiar. I’d say for atleast the first three meals.

Some bps will transition to rats better than others. Some may require scenting or braining over weeks even months while others have no problem switching at all. It’s just best to switch them sooner than later so they won’t get hooked on mice.

I must have been lucky because my guy for example, switched to rats in a snap. He used to be a timid feeder when he was on mice and never struck his prey, only eating when I left the room. Then something about rats (probably bc they stink more wow) awakened this inner beast and now he’s a total pig!

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Originally Posted by babytigger1113

They said it’s on live hoppers


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First thing is to add black paper to 3 sides of your tank, and also to add some more "cover" and security inside your tank such as a ton of fake leaves and more small hides with only one opening. Young ball pythons particularly need a lot of places to hide themselves completely and feel surrounded and squished up, in order to feel comfortable enough to eat food. Wide open spaces like what you have now (common with new owners) tend to make many hatchlings fail at eating, fail at feeling comfortable enough to eat. Hides that have too many openings or big openings are also not ideal.

Some ball pythons are pigs and will eat anyway, but some are more finicky and want to feel that security/cluttered setup. So it's best to give them the most ideal setup to begin with.

I would also stick to feeding mice for now, since that's what he was eating before- either a hopper or a small mouse, and feed at least 3 meals of this. Avoid handling him at all at this time, until he finishes this 3 meal process.

I wouldn't try to switch him to rats until he's eating consistently for you, especially when he was also eating LIVE before, which will make it more difficult, depending on the individual snake.

The snake is currently already under stress with their retained shed, and the wide open setup, so you want to make the setup as ideal for the species as possible to get him to eat. And avoid handling him completely unless absolutely necessary.