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He STILL won't eat

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  • 03-26-2018, 02:56 PM
    Kira
    How often are you offering? Offering too often can lead to more refusals. Also how often do you handle him?
  • 03-26-2018, 03:08 PM
    MissterDog
    Could you show us a picture of your set up? That will help give us the most information to see what else could be wrong. You keep saying the temps are right and for us to backtrack your past threads but I think it’s more helpful for you to give us exact numbers of what everything is at currently so we are all up to date.

    As noted by others, too much handling and frequent food offering could also lead to refusals. When you first got him did you let him fully acclimate without handling him? This is a key detail we need to know as we often advise not to handle your ball python until it has eaten three consecutive meals for you.
  • 03-26-2018, 03:12 PM
    ElliotNess
    Live Mouse... Get him eating and then start the conversion process over again. I have had issues. I tossed in a mouse, then right to rats. I am going to be doing FT conversion on all of my animals just for convenience.
  • 03-26-2018, 03:52 PM
    Stewart_Reptiles
    Husbandry is fine is very subjective, your idea of fine as a new owner is not be my idea of fine, most importantly is might not be your snake idea of fine.

    Quote:

    So let’s start with the details
    -16"x16"x23" locking terrarium
    -150 watt CHE
    -small 8 watt UTH
    -coconut fiber bedding
    -a half-log hideout (I'll be adding another hide)
    -misting 2-3 times a day

    He's had a mass of 103-106 grams
    Based on the previous thread there is little to no info on temps aside from them being wrong, enclosure is also wrong so is the hide so not it's not fine.

    It was suggested before and I will again since your issue is 100% husbandry related https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-hatchling-101

    Once you do the change you can offer F/T however if it does not work you will have to offer live whether you are a rodent owner or not and whether you like it or not because a 106 grams snake should not go without food for 3 months, and if it does not eat it’s because it’s not fine, at that age they are voracious and the less it will eat the more it will become a viscous circle.
  • 03-26-2018, 04:54 PM
    zina10
    Everyone else has already covered it !!! Listen to that great advice.

    One more thing, just how vigorously are you wiggling the rodent? Some BP's can become downright intimidated by the "death dance". Don't "bump" the BP with the rodent or move it to wildly. It can make some BP's get scared and back down. Even leaving the rodent overnight might not work anymore once they are "spooked" by it.

    You'll figure it out. Just cover all your bases, check off all the advice given, and then..patience :)
  • 03-26-2018, 05:03 PM
    FlipsideRuffian
    He STILL won't eat
    I'll keep trying it out. I'm quite the impatient person, lol. I'll get a pic of the setup ASAP. The current temps stay around 80-92 degrees Fahrenheit, I need more variation in the cooler side. May I ask how is the enclosure wrong? I thought ball pythons, especially young ones are better in smaller, more cozier enclosures. It's the only snake-appropriate enclosure I have currently. I've been offering every week, typically on the weekends.
    I'm really concerned about him not eating. He's not losing weight so that's good, but still quite concerned.
    Basic setup, ignore my reflection. Btw, is that too hot??
    https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8a219df48d.jpg
  • 03-26-2018, 05:19 PM
    Kira
    Try offering every 2 weeks instead of every week. Maybe I missed it but how often are you handling him?
  • 03-26-2018, 05:31 PM
    MissterDog
    I'm noting that your accurite is reading 94 . Where is your probe located? Is that reading your hot spot surface temp or ambient? In either case 94 is too hot! I recommend getting a temp gun for accurate surface temps.

    The picture is hard to make outcertain details but from what I can see you don't have appropriate or matching hides.Ball pythons like low, snug fitting hides so it fits them like a turtle shell. The tree stump hide while fun for climbing and as a spare hide, is much too tall and the hole is too big where your bp is too exposed. I can't even make out what the other hide is. You would benefit from more fake plants to hang for added cover because there is plenty of open air space. Remember they like shelter not just clutter since they are usually expecting to be attacked from above by a predator.

    Or simply follow Deborah's advice.

    And echoing Kiras question have you been handling your ball python or not? This is critical information.
  • 03-26-2018, 06:00 PM
    FlipsideRuffian
    He STILL won't eat
    No, I have not been handling him recently. I'm pretty sure it's reading ambience, in that case I'll get a lower wattage CHE right away! Thank you for your input on the hides, the other one is just a half log pushed up against the side so that only one side is exposed (he uses it often) and the other is just for backup. I'll change those up and add more plants, I did have two branches crossing the center, should I put those back for the time being?

    Edit: I have the Acurite set to indoor and it didn't come with a probe, unless you are counting the white probe used for hanging outdoors? Should I change it to outdoors?
  • 03-27-2018, 03:06 AM
    FlipsideRuffian
    Re: He STILL won't eat
    I checked the Acurite again, it dropped to 84. 82-86 seems to be around the average temp overall, though I can be way off. I notice that my room was significantly warmer when I took the pic, which may have contributed to the Acurite reading the temp as higher than it was. Just a thought.
    He was hiding behind the tall tree, he's definitely looking for a better hide. I have some of those small igloos I use for my hamsters, if I clean them maybe I can use them temporarily?
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