Spider Ball Python feeding trouble

Yeah, I would focus on the change in prey size. The key factor is your snake has been fine for a period of time and the only difference I am thinking is hte prey change. Ruling out the simplest thing often can lead to figuring out the cause of a change. Good luck and I am sure it will work out fine. so long as they are eating that is often the best indicator of health.

Don't be upset.

Advice is NOT meant to be "criticism". Look at it from the standpoint that people are taking the time to read about your issues, thinking about them, and then offering their thoughts and what may be helpful.

No-one ever stops learning. I've successfully kept reptiles since 2001, rescued, bred, etc.
Yet even I learn new things. Even I had to adjust some things at times. Even I made mistakes. Even if snakes eat and appear "fine", things can sometimes be improved upon.

That said...

Those issues could mean a few things. How many times has this happened ? You said you switched to 2 medium mice 2 days ago. So has he done this behavior prior to this switch? How often?

If it only happened once, then it could have simply been that he had that rodent positioned a bit odd, or it got a bit hung up on its way down. Causing him a temporary "flop to adjust" movement. Sometimes it takes quite the muscle and co-ordination for them to raise up while the rodent is in the throat. Even my perfectly normal and strong snakes (no spiders) sometimes shake a bit while raised up during the final "swallowing" moments.
A spider with neurological deficiencies might have had a bit more problems right then.

As for the "flushing", yes, that DOES happen and it is more visible while the light areas are stretched during feeding. If blood rushes through to those areas you will see the "flush". Usually while they strain. Doesn't necessarily mean anything bad.

IF all the symptoms continue, the flushing, twisting and whistling, you may need to investigate further...

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Originally Posted by SherlockAstral

My thermometer and hygrometer is attached using a suction cup. The belly heater is attached under the glass and is covered by substrate. He has never gotten any burns or shown any adverse effects to temperature.

This feeding issue came up out of nowhere. My temps have been the same for a year now. He always acts as any bp would. Relaxed, somewhat active before feeding time, and curious. He tongue flicks, he has bright black eyes.

I understand that my husbandry can be an issue when regarding adverse effects, but the fact of the matter is that nothing has changed. And I honestly feel a little upset that some of you think I am not caring for him properly.

Im going to try two things next feeding. I'm going to cut off the tail of the rodent, and weigh him to give a properly sized feeder. If these options don't work, I'll consider changing my setup.

Thank you all for the feedback. I'll take it all into consideration, especially the comments about the spider gene issues. I always keep a close eye on his feedings so I can intervene if he does anything detrimental to his health. Have a nice day everyone.

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I wouldn't get upset to be honest .

Can't say that anyone's had a go at you .... my only real concern is the surface temps particularly at the hottest part ... as mentioned those stick on dial things are basically useless and even then they're indicating the surrounding AIR temps ..

If it's reading in the 80's the actual surface temp could be in the high 90's or even over 100F... which is clearly kinda worrying ...

I'd try and get hold of a digital temperature gun - they're about 10 dollars off eBay or Amazon ..

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Edit: I just want to say I learn something new everyday so this post brings up some interesting topics

Don't want to off topic this but would not that flushing be the spreading of the scales due to ingesting a rodent and thus exposing more skin between scale and in lighter snake that showing as a redness due to things like reduced melanin and as such more visible vascular system than those with darker pigments? I was not aware that snakes could get sudden and rapid influx of blood to the surface of skin like mammals can. I know they can get a reaction when about to shed but that is slow and takes days. I am really curious now if some reptiles can get "flushed" as I thought that only capable of endothermic animals like mammals with more rapid heart rates.

I would think it safe to assume a influx of heated blood to the facial area of a snake would be counterproductive in snakes with heat pits. If anything blood pressure would be dependent on temperature more than stress with the exception of heat pits and eyes that are constricted during hunting. So a snake in a lower 70s ambient enclosure would have much lower blood pressure than one in say 85 degrees.

Link for some interesting blood pressure ranges if you ware interested.

http://www.peteducation.com/article....+2160&aid=2951

I don’t know if anyone still accessed my thread, but I’d like to post a final update on what has happened.

Custard was weighed in at 612 g, which is slightly smaller than average for a 16 month old male ball python. However, this does mean that my feeding sizes have been accurate. While I did do a decent job feeding by eye for his first year, I’m glad that I have a scale to change that. I’ll be moving to small rats soon, as he’s breached the 600 g reccomendation for changing.

His kinking is now very minimal after my past few feedings. Cutting off the tails worked wonders for his habits. He now holds up his neck like a pro.

Ive bumped his humidity up to average at 60 during the winter. He is about to go into shed soon, so I’ll be placing soaked moss in to help him along.

I appreciated all of your thoughts and concerns. I’ve taken a few of your worries into account, and I will continue to learn as I care for Custard. Thankfully, my boy is still tongue flicking and slithering at his leisure. :gj::snake: