BP won't go onto warm side, help!

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

The sweet spot is a body temp between 84 and 88 degrees. It has nothing to do with movement between hides. Frequent movement between hides indicates the animal was not comfortable in the hide for some reason one of which may be temperature. Staying in one hide or the other for long periods is also problematic in that it may indicate the the other hide is too hot or too cold. When we supply a gradient we allow the animal to heat and cool itself. Most people end up having to do this because controlling the ambient is not practical.

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Well my ball tends to always be in the cool side. Temps are 80-81 on cool and 89-90 on hot.

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Originally Posted by maausen

Well my ball tends to always be in the cool side. Temps are 80-81 on cool and 89-90 on hot.

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If those are the actual temps then there is probably no problem. I would swap the hides around just to see what happens.

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

If those are the actual temps then there is probably no problem. I would swap the hides around just to see what happens.

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They should be the exact temps. I have a accurite and another thermometer from RB and they read the same.. I also have the exact same hides on both sides from RB

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Originally Posted by maausen

I do not mean to hijack this thread but I too have been wondering about something like this.. My ball never leaves his cool hide either! Zincubus, how do you recommend fine tuning the temps? In other words how do we know when we hit the "sweet" spot? Should I look for a balance between my ball moving between both sides?

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It was actually the setup in general I said needed 'fine -tuning' ....

As regards a temperature sweet spot I don't think there is one as they are all individual / different .

I aim for a cool area of around 80F and a warm patch of 91F and then the snake finds its own sweet spot somewhere inbetween - as it thermoregulates .

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

With your ambient, the animal really doesn't need a hot side and will not use it often. Once the body temp of the animal hits around 84f digestion and everything else works fine so it has no need to warm up further.

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I agree 100% with JodanOrNoDan on this. I know people who keep the entire snake room around 84 F, and they don't need any other heating source at all, and have healthy breeding snakes.

In reply to Godzilla and Jodan's replies, thanks for the tip! I'm aware that I don't always need an extra heat source in the enclosure, but as I said, sometimes it can drop to 26°C (78.8°F). Currently I'm just keeping it on permanently because in a lot of other threads and posts, they all say that heatera are necessary. But I get the tip, I'll turn on the heater when it gets cold then. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

With your ambient, the animal really doesn't need a hot side and will not use it often. Once the body temp of the animal hits around 84f digestion and everything else works fine so it has no need to warm up further.

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Yeah that was my take on the situation.

My only concern is that the snake can't get as cool as he really wants to be .

I'm unsure of the long term repercussions of that scenario tbh


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

My only concern is that the snake can't get as cool as he really wants to be .
I'm unsure of the long term repercussions of that scenario tbh

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Don't worry Zin, I measure ambient daily and I have a fan in the room in which I keep my BP. If there's a major temp spike I turn the fan on at max power, so no worries :D

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

Yeah that was my take on the situation.

My only concern is that the snake can't get as cool as he really wants to be .

I'm unsure of the long term repercussions of that scenario tbh


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Concern about too hot is warranted and too hot is way more dangerous than too cool. I was very careful and methodical when I went to ambient only. I didn't just take anyone's word for it. I watched behavior and played with temps by single degrees. I had a regurge at around 82. At 90 the snake's behavior begins to change drastically. Holding between 84 and 88 is working great for me.

If I was keeping multiple species this would not work though. What I would probably do is sent ambient for the animal that wanted the lowest temps and provide heat tape for the rest.

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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

I agree 100% with JodanOrNoDan on this. I know people who keep the entire snake room around 84 F, and they don't need any other heating source at all, and have healthy breeding snakes.

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You can count me in as one of those people.