New Ball Python Concerns

Okay, first things first. Is your heat pad being controlled by a thermostat? If not I would unplug it and get a heat lamp as soon as possible. Those things are impossible to control the heat without one and are quick to malfunction and can leave you will a severly burnt or dead snake. Also in a heat pad only provides belly heat, you still will need something to keep the ambient, air, temps up. The ambient temps with a heat pad should be 80-85 throughout with a thermostat controlled heat pad making a hot spot of 91. Without a heat pad the lamp sound make a hot spot of around 90 and the cold side around 80. 75 is just pushing to cold for air temps, any lower at all is bad.

Also he needs to identical hides on both sides of the tank. A ball python will risk proper temps for safety so you need to give him the chance to feel safe on both sides of the tank. The hides also need to be snug around his body, think of it like a turtle shell. They like close spaces.

The humidity is also a bit low. 50-60 normally and 70 during shed.

Feeding live does help if they aren't eating but I highly doubt he will eat until the issued I addressed are fixed.

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You need to unplug your uth until it is regulated with a thermostat.

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Originally Posted by pilot

As far as how i measure temps/humidity, I just have the basic thermometers that velcro onto inside of tank. Nothing extremely special but will definitely take recommendations/ suggestions on specific brands/ things to buy. I also do not have a thermostat to regulate the heating pad.

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Get digital ones a lot of people use acurite brand I've read horror stories about those because of the sticky pads I didn't know this until sunnieskys yelled at me [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] and no thermostat with a heat pad is a BIG NO I didn't have one when I first got mine cuz I didn't do proper research and the surface of the glass on mine read at 126.6 Fahrenheit get one ASAP and until you do get a Che and unplug the heat pad

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OMG I would unplug that heating pad ASAP! Without a thermostat you'll burn your snake right up, probably why it won't eat. To start I would get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Hortic...art+thermostat

If you can afford it I'd go with something like this, these have more safety features, this is a mid level thermostat, the Herpstat would be the high end. In a pinch the first one will do.

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-300

As for what thermometer to use they sell some digital ones by acurite cheap at Wal-Mart and some really good probed ones (which you will need if you keep using the heating pad) for about 15 bucks on amazon. Sorry on phone so I can't link

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I will definitely be picking up a thermostat tomorrow as well as adding a second hide. Also changing out those thermometers. Would the new substrate and feeding a live pinky also be recommended? How long before i should attempt to feed again?

Mouse pinkies are too small for a ball python regardless of age. Here's a handy feeding chart for reference:
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...%2F98qfzDH.png

Like the others said get your temps on point and more importantly get that thermostat. I find doing research before a purchase like this really helps. I researched for two months set-up tank and made sure everything was on point. This forum has helped a lot no matter how dumb the question is. Good luck! :)

Ball pythons are a science project, as much as a pet. :)

And besides the husbandry a good note to consider is that your ball has yet to start eating so it may be best to get him started on live hoppers for his first meal try a fuzzy they are very small and do not move very much i had the same issue with my ball she did not eat for me for over a month when i first got her i was trying ft fuzzies pinkys hoppers and no results i did some research and found that jts best to get them started on live the later they start eating the more chance you risk of having a problem feeder even if you do not condone live it’s ultimately whats best for your ball the min i tossed in a live fuzzy my girl wrapped around it in less then a min and has been feeding agreesively every 4-5 days once you get your ball eating regularly you can switch over to ft small mice pose very little harm to your snake so there is really nothing to lose at this point but first things first get your enclosure temps controlled and uth regulated until you get thermostat its best to get the ambient air temps up at least so your snake is not cold once you get your temps and humidity right she should start eating do not assist feed it is unnatural and very stressfull for snake ur ball will not let it self starve to death snakes are very smart resourceful animals