Setup questions... tips/suggetsions appreciated

ok thanks for the tips. As for the UTH, even if I crank it to highest setting (100F) my thermometer laying on the bedding where his hide is, over the UTH, will only say 82-83

and the snake tries to eat the mouse... he just has terrible aim. But i was dangling it bu its tail, with my hand, so he might of not had bad aim and was trying to bite me. When I put mouse down, any hand movements near the tank and he striked at me like 3-4 times. Then had no interest.

I am going to try a live mouse, regular adult size.. smallest one I can find. The stores here only sell live mice of regular adult size. Worse that can happen is he won't eat it right?
Stun it or don't stun it?

I hear horror stories of mouses clawing snakes eyes out and :cens0r::cens0r::cens0r::cens0r:. Not sure is this really happens.

Ok those $2 cheap needle thermometers suck. I got my $40 thermometer/humidity gauge (elecctric) and its spot on. What temp do you think the cool side has to be? And where can I get a fitted peice of plexiglass to cover the tank?

Sorry I might've missed this but how long have you had the snake for? As someone else has said you should leave it alone for a week if you haven't already :)

As for the feeding issues, the strikes are probably defensive instead of feeding strikes. He's stressed out and needs some time alone to chill. Whenever you have a refusal wait at least a week to offer again because constant offerings get stressful.

And I don't think you should try live yet. What was he eating before you got him? If the snake's left alone with proper husbandry he'll eventually get hungry and eat so unless he starts losing weight I'd keep trying the f/t.

If you do decide to go live, I wouldn't stun the mouse. It sounds cruel :(

Also when I feed Kassadin I usually hold the rat with the tongs at the scruff of its neck so when he strikes the rat won't dangle out of place. Heating it up helps him pinpoint the rat's head too

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The hot spot bedding shouldn't feel warm or hot or anything so don't judge off of touch. You definitely should keep the thermostat between the UTH and tank. The thermometer probe should be under the bedding directly on the glass for a proper reading.

Also get a temperature guns they're hella convenient! :)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by chickenooget

Sorry I might've missed this but how long have you had the snake for? As someone else has said you should leave it alone for a week if you haven't already :)

As for the feeding issues, the strikes are probably defensive instead of feeding strikes. He's stressed out and needs some time alone to chill. Whenever you have a refusal wait at least a week to offer again because constant offerings get stressful.

And I don't think you should try live yet. What was he eating before you got him? If the snake's left alone with proper husbandry he'll eventually get hungry and eat so unless he starts losing weight I'd keep trying the f/t.

If you do decide to go live, I wouldn't stun the mouse. It sounds cruel :(

Also when I feed Kassadin I usually hold the rat with the tongs at the scruff of its neck so when he strikes the rat won't dangle out of place. Heating it up helps him pinpoint the rat's head too

--

The hot spot bedding shouldn't feel warm or hot or anything so don't judge off of touch. You definitely should keep the thermostat between the UTH and tank. The thermometer probe should be under the bedding directly on the glass for a proper reading.

Also get a temperature guns they're hella convenient! :)


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Fabulous post !!


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Ok will do.

I blacked the windows out with construction paper to help make him less stressed. This is what look like, stupid blurry camera.

https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net...1b&oe=59B77B0D
https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net...e5&oe=59B7BED0
https://scontent-dft4-2.xx.fbcdn.net...0b&oe=59B6939D

The lights on top are one ceramic for day, and the other ones a dark blue/purple one for night to simulate moon. Just too lazy to change piping hot bulbs so I got a light for each.

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Waiting for my branches and decor to come, and that log is too small he can't fit in it anymore lol

I've heard from more experienced keepers that overhead light is stressful, especially night lights are unnecessary because then there's light on all the time, that doesn't really contribute to their health.

what about ceramic heat emitters... no light, just warmth

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Originally Posted by neur0tix

what about ceramic heat emitters... no light, just warmth

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Ceramic heat emitters are ideal.

Are you sure you are heating the mouse to a high enough temperature? If the snake is constantly aiming at your hand (instead of the mouse in your hand) it may be that he smells the food but the higher heat signature is coming from your hand and not the mouse. The mouse needs to be really warm to the touch, I believe the average body temp of a mouse is around ~110 degrees or more (off the top of my head so not super accurate, but a good deal higher than human body temp) so it needs to feel almost hot.

His warm side tempuratures need to be boosted to ~90 degrees or he may not want to eat, 80 is too cold for a warm side temp and if bps can digest at this temperature (I'm not entirely sure they can) then it will be a slow process and feeding times may need to be extended.

If the animal is left alone for a period of time, husbandry is on point and the mouse is heated properly, he should eat.

I finally got him to eat. He did not care for frozen ones, or I was preparing wrong... but took a live mouse right away. He has terrible aim... he could not catch the mouse and missed about 15 times eventually. Ok I will make warm side 90 degrees, cold side read about 75

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*** eventually we had to stun mr. mouse. Felt bad but he was going to die either way, I'd rather be dazed and confused before someone ate me.