Can a BP cage be too big???

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

unplug your UTH if it is unregulated.

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So it's not wise to just buy a on off thermostat

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I use a jumpstart for mine right now. Cheap but works on a budget.

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Originally Posted by William Snakespeare

So it's not wise to just buy a on off thermostat

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any type of regulation is better than nothing. however, since your UTH is not regulated it poses a serious risk to the snake. you should not be using it if it is unregulated. please unplug it until you can get a thermostat for it.

Jsyk, unplug it doesn't mean don't heat your snakes enclosure. Especially since getting a thermostat might take days.

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I do unplug when my cha begets too hot

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Originally Posted by William Snakespeare

I do unplug when my cha begets too hot

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ALL heat sources MUST be regulated!!! get a $15 lamp dimmer (aka rheostat) from any home improvement store to use with the CHE. a thermostat is the better option but i use a rheostat with my CHE and it works well once you understand the dial.

There's nothing "wrong" with an on-off thermostat, it just isn't as nice as a proportional one, as it can only run the heat source at 100% or 0%. So in a hypothetical 1-hour period, a proportional thermostat may run the heat source at 50% for the entire hour, and an on-off thermostat will be cycling between on for X minutes, and then off for X minutes (assuming a spherical cow at STP). In either case, the temperature where the probe is will still stay within appropriate the temperature range. Also, proportional thermostats are more likely to have the ability to adjust the low-end set point and on-off thermostats are more likely to default to a fixed number of degrees below your high-end set point.

You can use one thermostat for two enclosures, *if* they're identical in size and have identical heating sources - that's what happens in a rack, each tub is the same size and has the same amount of heat tape, or one run of heat tape for the whole thing. Even so, there will be minor variations between tubs/enclosures.


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Glad you have him too - sounds like he'll have a much better life now. As far as t-stat goes - I have been using an on-off for two years with no issue, however I don't have it on a UTH (I use a CHE instead) since it takes so long for the CHE to loose heat it does not affect the temp more than a degree inside the hide before it comes on again. That said, between my fiance and I we are almost always home - I even come home on my long days for lunch, so he gets checked frequently.

As for cage size, I don't believe the "they are a nervous species" hype. Some snakes are probably more uncomfortable in large enclosures and rack systems are more convenient for people with large collections, but that does not mean that ALL ball pythons need small dark cages. Mine started in a 40 gallon breeder tank (48x24x16) as a 120 gram baby. He had all sides but the front blacked out, 6 hides, 2 water bowls, plenty of clutter, and most importantly all temps/humidity had been stable for a month before adding the snake. When he hit 800 grams I got him an AP T11 - he only fasted for 1 month over the winter and has eaten like a champ.

I think he appreciates the room, I add new rocks and sticks on a monthly basis with new smells - for enrichment. He cruises and explores almost nightly and has great muscle tone.

I also believe that smaller cages are recommended for new owners because it is easier to maintain and easier not to mess up - not because it in necessary for the snake

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Originally Posted by William Snakespeare

I asked a friend if I can use a thermostat for multiple cages if they have the same temp requirements and he said he wouldn't suggest it. He says that's why they have rack systems.

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The only time you can do this is if the cages are all exactly alike.

EDIT: Ack, really need to pay attention to if there is more than one page lmao. You're in good hands. And a thermostat is a must -- cheap ones are okay, but definitely try to save up for a more expensive and reliable one (Herpstats) down the line.