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  • 06-17-2017, 10:31 AM
    GoingPostal
    I'd pick up a digital temp gun and figure out what your temps are exactly all over the cage, I use indoor/outdoor thermometers in tank, probe in the hot hide and the device on the cool, to get a quick view of temps to check but always double check with the temp gun. The stick on type are garbage as well as dangerous so don't use those.

    Are your heat lamps light bulbs or heat emitters? Ball pythons don't need light so that can bother them, ceramic heat emitters are nice for warmth without the light. All heat sources should be controlled, by a thermostat or bulbs at least on a dimmer but must be constantly monitored if so and temps will change if your ambient room does so you have to keep a close eye on it to stay stable. Stability and proper temps are what reptiles need. Make sure temps are good, there's tight secure hides, leave it alone for a week and offer a live adult mouse after pre-scenting the room with it beforehand. I just leave the mouse in a carrier near the snake cage. Is there discoloration near the tail, red or anything? I also can't see it being constipated without feeding.
  • 06-17-2017, 11:04 AM
    Stewart_Reptiles
    Re: ball python possibly constipated? please help.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kaitlynw View Post
    Trust me I started at hoppers when she still wasn't eating the pet store I got her at recommended trying a pinkie to see if she will eat. As for warming them if they are frozen I put them in hot water and let them de-thaw.
    age wise she is about 5-7 months I believe not sure on her weight but she doesn't feel or look like she's lost weight.
    I have regular heat lamps one 70 watt on her cool side and 100 watt on the warm side. I have 3 seperate temperature gauges one on warm and cool plus one in the middle. Don't have a current humidity gauge (previous one stopped working needed to wait for a day off) 40 gallon I believe and she has 3 hiding huts.

    The reason your animal is not eating is your HUSBANDRY, it is way off for your animal not to mention the type of prey you are feeding. Follow the link provided by Pit if the animal is above 200 grams substitute the 6 quarts tub for a 12 or 15 one , it is important to get the animal on track asap for you, that means proper husbandry, feeding properly sized prey that the animal sees as prey, etc

    Now to come back on the original question the bulging near the vent can be gas, stuck solid urate (which could indicate dehydration), or fecal matter (an animal has to eat to pass fecal matter especially after 3 months)

    Do you have a picture of the issue? Did you palpate the area and can you describe how it feels.
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