PLEASE HELP, my enclosure is too cold

Be careful to have all of your research done before putting your snake in this setup. It sounds pretty dangerous. ... you will need two thermostats, three if you end up warming up the cool side with an additional bulb... and I'm worried about your humidity for sure... hopefully this isn't a hatchling we are talking about here.


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https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...aIP1bybW4/edit

This link contains a picture of the bulb im using as well as my tank( don't mid the thermometer reading on the bottom left, i movwed the lamp over to thats side for a bit to see if i could heat it up but when i moved the lap back to the normal spot the cold side just got too cold again.

Ok so i have a 40 gallon breeder tank with and under tank heater by zoo med and a 175 watt bulb in the tank but im having heating issues, my basking spot temp is fine at 93 degrees but, the cold side of my tank is at 68 degrees with the thermometer probe taped to the wall of the cold side at snake level. please help on ways i can the tanks heat up.

People are already assisting you in the other thread, no need to create another one.

I cant see the pic in the link either. Says I don't have permission.

As to the tank and bulb. There is no way the bulb is only creating a hotspot of 93. Are you using a IR temp gun to measure your temps. A analog or even a probed digital thermometer are not good devices to find the actual surface temps.

The uth needs a tstat before it can be used. The uth can get really hot when it is not regulated. Google pics of burns snakes and you will see what it can do. They can seriously harm and even kill a snake. The uth is not purpose built for a BP and they require much lower temps than that mat will provide. A thermostat is the most important thing you will be buying for your snake and I always say to buy the best you can afford. I like Herpstats from Spyder Robotics.

In my first post I included the setup I used to have. The 100 watt che were regulated by distance and even when they were 18 inches away from the surface they were heating they created hotspots at and just over 90F. I used lamp stands to distance the che which then lowered the amount of heat that reached the tank. I also really like this method as it keeps the fixtures of the tank lid and makes for a much safer setup as you are not moving hot metal fixtures around.

If you are placing the a 175 watt lamp directly on top of the screen lid you are asking for trouble. I would get a IR temp gun to see exactly what temps you have.

Also as I said in my first post I required a second fixture to keep my cool temps at a good level. When dealing with glass tanks many times you have to work harder to keep the temps correct. It is very possible but it does need more work than some other cage types.

Again look up burned snakes on Google. They can be burned by under tank heating as well as over head heat.

1st I can guarantee your hot spot is over 93 degrees if you are not regulating it. :gj:
You need to take the temperature UNDER the substrate.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psqcouxfgn.jpg

2nd

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Post-Pictures

Two more things to try, in addition to the advice you've already gotten: First, insulate the tank. Aluminum foil will help reflect the heat that is in the form of IR radiation, but will not do much for heat losses due to conduction/convection between the walls of the tank and the air in the room. For that you need something more like foam, blankets, etc. Foam insulation is good, or packing foam, styrofoam, even a couple layers of bubble wrap. It doesn't have to cover the front of the tank and block your view, but the more sides you cover the more effectively it will insulate. Same goes for the top of the tank. Just make sure that you keep anything flammable well away from that 175-watt lamp!!!

Second, you can try putting the CHE on one side and the UTH on the other so that both ends are heated with something. The CHE will make more heat than the UTH, so the UTH will basically just be boosting the cool side a bit while the CHE makes the warm side. Since you don't have your snake yet, you can try rearranging stuff like that now at full power just to see where you stand even without thermostats. Ideally, running everything at full power should give you temperatures higher than what you really want, because then your thermostats can regulate it down.
If full power from your current heat sources doesn't achieve high enough temps, you need an additional (or more powerful) heat source or more insulation.

My humid level is fine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brock

My humid level is fine

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Im not sure if you are asking or telling but you need to get the temps correct first.

Humidity is fairly easy to add. I like to add moist moss to the hides. This does not raise the total tank humidity but it gives the snake what it needs where it is. Very simple and easy. Also the moss makes the hides feel more secure and make a hide that is a bit big feel smaller to your snake.

I put cardboard wrapped in tinfoil and it raised the temp from 68 to 75-80degrees!

I bought terrarium moss right off the bat so I haven't had a problem with humidity, plus I live in north Idaho if that makes a difference