Your Opinion On Thermostats?

Yes. The newer ones have also have a basking light feature in them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

Yes. The newer ones have also have a basking light feature in them.

---

Ah - thanks. Mine have that, I've just never realized what it's for. Based on the write-up in the instructions, I'm not really sure how it differs from the regular mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use herpstats as well. I get trying to save money, but in my opinion, if you can spend a little more and save yourself a little headache as possible down the road, I'd go for it.

A herpstat 2 will run you ~$200, but ball pythons can live anywhere from 10-30 years. They aren't exactly short lived, so might as well spend a little more up front to have everything good from the get go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

Ah - thanks. Mine have that, I've just never realized what it's for. Based on the write-up in the instructions, I'm not really sure how it differs from the regular mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

The basking light feature is why I stated they don't generally work with bulbs, that feature is new, a few years back when I was setting up my lizard cages I called Herpstat and Helix and asked about their units with Halogen Flood Bulbs, they told me while a proportional T-Stat will control them, they will kill the life of the bulb and they don't recommend them for use with bulbs, that was directly from the MFG, I have not messed with them since the incorporated the light feature, so I can't speak to what is different about them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jclaiborne

The basking light feature is why I stated they don't generally work with bulbs, that feature is new, a few years back when I was setting up my lizard cages I called Herpstat and Helix and asked about their units with Halogen Flood Bulbs, they told me while a proportional T-Stat will control them, they will kill the life of the bulb and they don't recommend them for use with bulbs, that was directly from the MFG, I have not messed with them since the incorporated the light feature, so I can't speak to what is different about them.

---

So it just tries to maintain the power constant rather than constantly fluctuating to maintain temperature? So you know if the same is true for a CHE; should a CHE be run with basking on or off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

So it just tries to maintain the power constant rather than constantly fluctuating to maintain temperature? So you know if the same is true for a CHE; should a CHE be run with basking on or off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I honestly have no clue, because at this point I don't use a T-Stat for my Lizards. I would say if you want a definitive answer call Herpstat directly. Like I said going back a few years when I called them they said to not use them with bulbs, now with this new feature it seems as though you can, they will be able to explain it best. That just my 2 cents.

I run the basking setting with my CHE for my JCP and it works fine. It keeps it within a couple degrees of 90F all the time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

I run the basking setting with my CHE for my JCP and it works fine. It keeps it within a couple degrees of 90F all the time.

---

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I could see that with a CHE. They are not as fast to heat as a bulb and adjust more slowly so I can understand why it may not be needed on a CHE.

I do really like using CHEs. I have a heated room now but the ones I had worked well and were still working when I changed to a snake room. One of them had been running non stop for well over a year at full power. Ended up being much cheaper than heat bulbs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Good to know man. I never talked to Dion about it, I just used it for my CHE. I did talk to Dion about the ability upgrade firmware though on the older models since I got one old model. And yeah I keep my probe between the CHE and my JCPs perch and then adjust until I get the perfect temp on her perch.